mlenzi

I have used my two Hasselblad 500 C and C/M bodies extensively in temps below 0

degrees Fahrenheit to over 100 degrees. Humid, dry, dusty, snowy, etc. The camera bodies

have never failed me. I have only had a little trouble with worn out film backs getting

jammed up causing film spacing problems.

Sometimes good cameras break. I don't understand why people want to write off the

whole brand of Hasselblad because of 1 bad experience with a camera. This doesn't make

sense to me.

Thanks for the info. I am thinking of getting a 135mm Compunon-S. I am refurbishing the

enlarger right now. It had no lens board, light source, condenser glass or base. I will post

some pics when I get done with it.

Hi Everyone:

I got an old Elwood 5X7 enlarger in parts in a box and I am putting it back together.

I am making a lensboard and am mounting a cold light head in the dome.

I need some advice on a basic lens for this set up. I normally use a Besseler 23C XL enlarger for

all my 35mm and medium format stuff so this size is new to me. I have an extra Schneider 80mm f4.0

lens and was wondering if this might work.

If not, could someone give me a little advice on what lens I should try to get. I will be doing both 4X5 and

5X7 enlarging. Thanks in advance for any info.

Cheers,

Michael

A friend of mine has a D2Hs that I sold him. It has about 20,000 shutter

actuations on it and is in good shape. He is now getting infrequent error messages.

This is what he said about it:

"I upgraded the firmware immediately after I received the camera.

I tried with and without the SB-800 but the err message appeared both way. Also tried A S and M mode.

The err message did not have a number.

It first happened with my 17-55mm f2.8. Then I switched to the 85mm f1.4 but no improvement.

I can't think of any other factors."

Has anyone else had this issue? When I had the camera I never had this type of problem. Any help would

be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Michael

James:

This is good to hear. I have been shooting digital for 3 years now in addition to film and

find that I love working with film much more. Perhaps it is the finite number of shots.

Maybe it is the discipline involved in shooting, developing and printing my own stuff in the

darkroom.

I love the easy storage too. I can just put the film in a filing cabinet and I am done.

The digital option is great for work and makes projects very easy for me to complete in a

timely manner. I do not miss the time spent going to and from the store for film or color/

chrome processing at all.

When I do my own work though, the slow and deliberate way I learned to work with film is

much more conducive to getting the shots I want. I could do the same with digital and

have done so, but I find that the rituals of film are ingrained(so to speak) in my

understanding and love of photography.

Thanks to everyone for posting interesting comments and good info. When I can find a

Coolscan 9000 used I will be all over it.

Michael

Thanks Marek and everyone else for the good info! I have been wanting that 9000 for a long

time now and I think I will get it. I sold a bunch of gear so I will have enough for the scanner

plus the glass carrier.

Thanks. That actually helps me work through this. I appreciate it. I really do want the best

possible MF scan I can get. That is the format the majority of my serious work.

Michael

Hi:

I have fairly straightforward question to ask about scanners. I am currently using an Epson 4180 Photo

flatbed scanner for both my 35mm and MF scans. I would like to upgrade because frankly the quality of

scans is ok for the web but is not so great for printing. I shoot regular 35mm(Nikon F3), panoramic 35mm

(Widelux F7) and 6X6 (Hasselblad) and 6X7 (Mamiya 7).

I have looked very seriously at two combinations and was wondering if anyone could help me sort out the

best option. I thought of getting the Coolscan 9000 for both 35mm and MF or getting the Coolscan V for

35mm and the Epson V750 for MF(and LF scans when I get a camera). I like Nikon photo gear and have

seriously considered the 9000 but it is very expensive($1800-$1900). The other combo would cover what

I need to do and is less expensive by 300,400 or 500 dollars depending on where I buy it.

The biggest positive I can see for the cheaper combo is that I can transition into LF without a problem and

it is cheaper. However, would the Coolscan 9000 produce significantly better scans of 35mm and MF film

than the cheaper combo?

Any ideas would really be appreciated!

Michael

Thanks. That is what I meant and that is what I was thinking as well.

Michael

I am thinking of getting a Lindahl Flash bracket with the pistol grip for my 500C. I use the waistlevel finder

or the smokestack for focusing and was wondering if this is possible with the Lindahl set up.

Thanks for any info.

Michael

Sure, but gold fringes and Judy Garland were never a part of the film negative/postive to

begin with. When I am scanning an image I never ask myself, " Should I leave Judy Garland in

the image this time or do I like it better without her?"

Thanks for the responses. I like the Nikon camera optics as well as their digital bodies and

guess that the V is probably what I should get. I do like using the film edges for borders and

do not find it cutesy in any way. The majority of the prints i make in the darkroom are done

with a filed carrier and I think the aesthetic is right for what I do. I am not shooting 35mm

film to get pristine images necessarily. I shoot a lot of low light stuff and like the very grainy

and weathered appearance of Ilford Delta 3200 film. So the use of the edges in darkroom

prints goes right along with the look I am trying to achieve.

Cheers

Michael<div></div>

Hi:

I have been working with my negatives in the darkroom and have grown accustomed to the

look of prints with part of the film sprocket holes visible. I have an Epson 4180 right now and have

used it a ton for 35 and 120 format scanning. It is ok but I want to step up to a higher quality scanner.

I would like to be able to scan the film edges if possible and was wondering if you can do that with the

Coolscan V. Is it possible with the film holders that are provided? I am concerned with 35mm primarily and

not MF. I can do this with the Epson by using the a MF film holder that I bought on the internet and then

filed down. This is however not so great because I have to make sure the film is lined up square before I

lay down the glass. Otherwise I spend a lot more time in Photoshop aligning and cropping.

Thanks for any help,

Michael

Thanks for the responses. This is just what I wanted to hear.

Cheers

Michael

Hi:

A friend of mine who shoots with a Canon 5D can view his images on the camera LCD in grayscale mode.

It is not obviously crucial that I have this option but it sure would be nice sometimes. Does anyone know if

the D200 has this option? I know the D2Hs(the camera I have) does not.

Thanks for any info from you D200 users.

Michael

I did a little bit of searching on how to do infrared photography with the D2Hs and didn't find too much. I

read a few articles about how difficult it is to do with the D2X and how it makes necessary to use

something like 11-13 stops of compensation to get useable images. I guess these cameras are very good

at blocking infrared and that is a good thing.

Is this about the same with the D2Hs? Or is the sensor different enough to allow it? Any help from those

who have tried it or know how to do it would be good.

Thanks for any info.

Michael

Very useful info! I wanted to revive the thread for those who need the Mamiya 6,7 or 7II

manuals. Mamiya wins a lot of points for having their manuals available in high quality pdfs

for free. I have downloaded both the 6 and 7 manuals when I couldn't figure out a few things.

Michael

Hi:

I bought an Epson P-2000 a while back and have been using it a lot. I just plug it into my Mac and manage

my files with ease. I just realized that there should have been a software cd in the box when I bought it.

Can anyone tell me what is on the cd? What kind of software is included? Does anyone know where I can

get a copy of the software?

I checked on the Epson site for info and found only Firmware updates there. Any help would be very

welcome.

Michael

Using the MC-30 sounds like a good option but it too seems to be out of stock. Anyone used

the Addidt remote cord knock off of the MC-30? It is about $10. Or any other non-Nikon

compatible release cords?

Hi:

I need to clean my sensor and I have just bought a sensor brush and cleaning fluid, etc. I now need the

EH-6 AC adaptor but I can't find any in stock. Anyone have any help on finding one?

Do I in fact need it to clean to sensor? I can get access to the sensor by Mirror Lock-up then Bulb but is

this foolish and risky?

Thanks

Michael Lenzi

Hi:

I revently shot a lot of photos with a new 10.5mm DX Fisheye. I use a D2Hs body. I found a weird color

issue in some of the shots. When the sun was bright but out of the frame I would get a pink edge on some

objects close to where the sun was in the sky.

I know color aberration is common and I was just curious how to correct it using Capture or Photoshop

CS2.

Thanks

Michael

Also try KEH.COM. They sell mostly used but have a decent new selection as well. I have

bought most of my film and digital bodies and lenses from them. They have a good return

policy and rate their used gear very strictly. You usually get a much better condition item

than you expect. At least I have.

Good luck

Michael

Hi:

I just bought a used 70-200 2.8 VR lens and it has been used quite a bit from the look of it.

When I press the shutter button and the VR is activated I hear the motor/mechanism whirr.

There is no grinding but I can hear a rotating or spinning sound. This could be the AF-S focusing or the

VR. It happens right after the lens locks focus. It then spins for a second and stops.

My question is whether this is normal for this lens. I rented one a few weeks back to shoot a show and it

was very loud in the club so I didn't notice it at all.

Thanks for any assistance. I would prefer it if only people who own the lens/have solid experience with it

would comment on this.

Michael

Larry:

Thanks for the FV Lock tip. It doesn't cancel the Monitor pre-flash but it allows you to fire off

the pre-flash, wait, then shoot with full flash as long as you don't hit the Func. button again.