fd photo
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Posts posted by fd photo
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<p>A bit of a tangent to your direct question but... you might also want to consider upgrading your camera body to one with improved high ISO performance. I shot with a 20d for the past 3+ years and really liked the camera. I was fortunate enough to recently start shooting with a 5D mkII (personal camera) and 50d (work camera) and was just floored by the improved high ISO performance with both. I know the 5D mkII is pricey but you might also want to consider a used original 5D.</p>
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<p>Glad you are kidding about switching lens mounts! It does sound like something is out of whack, especially if there is a noticable shift when you press the shutter. I wish I had more to offer.<br>
I'm pretty sure there are many posts about similiar issues with all sorts of makes and models. It might be worth reading through them. You also might want to compare the XT and mkII side-by-side to see if you notice any glaring differences in the mounts. It'll be interesting to see what the folks at Glazers have to say. Good luck!</p>
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<p>Can you describe "loose"? Does it seem like the lens is not fitting tight against the body? You probably already know but a little play in rotation is normal... lots of rotation or shifting of the lens axis is not. The main question is, does it affect your images?</p>
<p>Just as a point of reference, all my lenses fit quite snug on my 5D mkII... 17-40, 50, right up to the 100-400. The Kenko tubes have slightly more play but are still quite snug... much more so than my 20d.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>When I looked at the play-back the subject was NOT smiling</p>
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<p>I would guess that is due to either an itchy trigger finger or trigger finger delay but not from shutter lag. The shutter lag on most any modern dSLR is generally quoted to be in the 50 to 100-ms range (as Bob pointed out). If the subject is smiling when you press the shutter release then I doubt that 100 ms is enough time for their facial muscles to relax and the tissue to fall out of a smile before the shutter opens. I could be wrong (certianly wouldn't be the first time) but I'm dubious.</p>
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<p>I really like my comfortable daypack and am too cheap to get a dedicated photo backpack so here is what I do, hopefully interesting if not informative:</p>
<p>(*) A piece of foam (like from a sleeping pad) on the bottom of the pack as a little extra padding in case stuff gets shuffled around.</p>
<p>(*) Then lunch, pack rain cover, jacket, and stuff I don't anticipate needing access to repeatedly.</p>
<p>(*) Then lenses in sleeves near the top of the pack. I usually carry a 17-40 and macro in sleeves with a 24-105 on the body. I also keep some spare gallon ziplock bags to put the lens sleeves in if I know I be hiking for extended periods in wet weather.</p>
<p>(*) The camera body goes in a small zoom case attached the sternum strap or waist belt of the pack depending on my mood.</p>
<p>(*) Other camera widgets, map, compass, blah, blah in the pack's other pockets. I usually keep the various camera widgets in ziplock bags so I can grab the whole bag out of the pack. Tripod strapped to side ski pocket.</p>
<p>(*) A short piece of rope and a beaner to hang the pack from a tree rather than setting it down in the mud/snow/dust.</p>
<p>I really try hard not to carry too much gear with me if I can help it. Also, the Osprey packs have very good compressoin systems so tightening those up should help keep thigs from jostling around too much. Oh, I also consider a hat to be an essential... any type of hat with a big brim that fits over the camera without having to take the hat off. The hat keeps the bugs, rain, and sun off my head and lets me see the viewfinder better.</p>
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<p>It would be good to know if we are talking crop or FF but... I guess I would vote for #2 as that gives you a little bit of reach beyond 70 without having to change lenses. It is a tough call without knowing your shooting style. I have a 28-135 and like it enough.</p>
<p>Also, did you return that other lens with the bouncing IS that you posted about? Which lens was that by the way... 28-135 by any chance?</p>
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<p>I'll also throw in the suggestion to consider the irrational / human nature side of the question. Say I'm considering a new widget, in this case a lens, and I can get it with or without IS. I can list 10 reasons why I don't "need" IS but if that little voice in my head keeps saying "yeah, but wouldn't it be nice to have it" then maybe I ought to just spend the money and be done with it.</p>
<p>I'm just throwing this out there for condsideration... I'm not advocating this approach. Listening to the voices in my head already gets me in enough trouble.</p>
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<p>This really is impossible for us to answer. You have to decide what you want/need more based on your type of shooting.</p>
<p>I can tell you that I own all three lenses you are considering and like them all very much. My 17-40 was my workhorse on the 20D. Once I went full frame the 24-105 became the go-to lens. Keep in mind that the 17-40 is significantly less expensive than the other two. Maybe you could get the 17-40 now and shorten the time until your next lens?</p>
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<p>IS isn't designed for use with moving subjects so it might be of limited use for your sports shots. IS reduces blur from camera shake only.</p>
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<p>The short answer is "yes, but with limited usefulness." Long lenses tend to have "far" hyperfocal distances. Something like 150 feet to infinity is not uncommon.</p>
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<p>Let the wild speculation begin! (or should I say continue?) Also, there is a big difference between what Canon <em>can</em> do and what Canon <em>will</em> do.</p>
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<p><em>William - Do the gaitors protect against snake bites?</em></p>
<p>You can get "snake gaitors" from outdoor shops (Cabela's, Bass Pro, etc.) that are made for snake bite protection. Regular gaitors may offer some protection but I wounldn't count on it, especially since there is such a large variety of materials and heights offered.</p>
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<p>I just tried this with a 28-135 IS and did not get any noticable shaking from the IS system. I started at 135 and pressed the shutter button button 1/2 way to activiate the IS then zoomed down to 28 while holding the shutter button. I have a few IS lenses and I've never seem that behavior before.</p>
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<p>Up here in NY's Adirondacks the black flies get pretty thick. NOT wearing deoderant, after shave, cologne, etc. seems to make you less of a target for them. This is also an effective strategy for repelling people :)<br>
The main thing I've found with ticks is to wear pants and keep the leg openings sealed as others have mentioned. Also look yourself over carefully after each outing as you can often find them before they get latched on.</p>
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<p>Adorama is a reputable and well-known store. I'm not sure that $500 is a particularly good price though. I'm actually trying to sell my 20D right now so I've been looking at prices quite a bit lately. $500 is the most I've seen for a body only although the ones I've been comparing with are in various states of used rather than being advertised as "new". You could also try KEH, B&H, Claumet, and Craigslist for good used bodies.</p>
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<p>I know this might be a bit of overkill but I have all the parts so it is easy for me to do... in a situation like that I often bring a Pelican case and my daypack. The photo gear I'm hiking with goes in the daypack. The gear I'm leaving behind goes in the Pelican case. I then throw a padlock on the Pelican case and use a bicycle cable/lock to tether the case to some heavy duty part of the truck (or in my case underseat of my truck).<br>
With enough time or determination just about anything can be stolen (including the whole car) but I figure this helps prevent smash and grab stuff.</p>
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<p>Great info Doug!<br>
For the OP... Doug's statement about knowing, really knowing, the location and subject he is after is a common thread among successful photographers (wildlife, landscape, portrait... doesn't matter). The more you know about your subject the better your image appeal and keeper rate will be. The other way around this means that less familiarity means much more time in the field.</p>
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<p>Are you shooting RAW or JPEG? I believe that PSE only works with RAW files.</p>
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<p>I can't emphasize this enough... visualize the sunset image that you are tying to make before you start firing away. When I was new to photography I would go out and photograph something without realizing the image that I was after. Then I would be disappointed when I didn't get that image... like the camera was supposed to read my mind!<br>
Get to your location with plenty of time before the sun starts heading down. It sounds crazy but sunrises and sets are hectic. The light changes fast. You will optimize your chances of getting the image you want if you visualize it beforehand so you know what you need to do when the time comes. Think about if you want the sun up in the sky or dropped below the horizon, silhouette shot or detail in the foreground, and so on. Also study other sunset shots that you like and try to replicate elements of them that you found pleasing.<br>
Then, follow the good advice the others have given you above and you'll be well on your way.</p>
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<p>I've heard lots of nice things about the 10-22 so that sounds like a good investment but it really depends on your particular style and if you feel the 28-135 is wide enough for you on the 400D body.<br>
Another thought would be to pick up a second body. This would keep you from changing lenses in the field and allow you to swtich from wide to tele efforlessly.</p>
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<p>Sorta depends on what you plan on getting on your lens. For most regular cleaning situations I really like a LensPen and a microfiber cloth. I use the LensPen brush-end to get the specks off and then the soft spongy-end to get the smudges and such. Then use the cloth to clean the body of the lens and the camera body (exterior). With heavier contamination such as salt spray or serious pollen / dust then you'll probably want to look at using a cleaning solution.</p>
<p>For the camera sensor I used a Dust-Aid wet wipe but only when I absolutely have to.</p>
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<p>I paid $200 for an 8-hour "photoshop for photographers" class offered by a well known local photographer who shoots in a similiar style to mine. It was proabably the best $200 I've ever spent on photography.</p>
<p>Think about where your skills are today and what you want to gain from the class. If you think the class will meet your needs then go for it. Money spent on education is often money well spent.</p>
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<p>I'll throw another reference behind the "crop cameras do not increase magnification" case. I found this page to be a good read and quite blunt about the issue. See the sections titled "By the Numbers" and "Free Teleconverter?".<br>
<p>Here is Canon's white paper on CMOS sensors. It is the typical marketing piece masquerading as a technical paper but is does have a few interesting tidbits. I bring this up because (1) a Canon technical paper was mentioned earlier in the thread and (2) you really have to work hard to come away from it understanding that there is no magnification bonus with crop bodies. This is the type of thing that leads to the confusion.<br>
<p>This is such a misunderstood issue and there is no shortage of confusing and just plain wrong information on the web! I hope this thread will provide insight for others down the road. It seems that even Phil G. used some questionable phrasing in his review of the original 5D so clearly this can be a tough concept to write about and one needs to choose thoughts and phrasing very carefully.</p>
<p> </p>
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John, very cute kid. My son is just over 2 so the impossibility of getting them to sit still or to even get a picture without a fake smile is very fresh in my mind. You may want to play around with using the flash a bit. I don't think you'll get the exact results that you are looking for but you can get some neat stuff. Basically you want to capture a long exposure to get the water flow effect AND use the flash to get some sharp detail on the little perpetual motion machine. Use manual or shutter priority, set a shutter speed between 1/3 and 1 second depending on water speed, and turn the flash on. You'll get ghosting around the kid of course but it might turn out pretty interesting.
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