alan_krantz

<p>SD card or usb device - either 128GB or 256GB. However, you have to pick very carefully if you care about performance (specifically write speed). Unfortunately 'USB3' (for example) does not promise good performance. So do your research. If 128GB is not large enough you can by ssd 'backup' drives as suggested above. ssd can be more reliable over the long run IFF you buy the right models but USB are more common and have a lot of benefits. Personally my favorite is micro-ssd cards but don't know what sort of ports your laptop has.</p>

<p>btw how much space do you actually require ?</p>

<p>details != sharpness. As a simple example I was looking at a photograph digitially printed and wanted to read the license plate. I could not (with a loupe) because it was lacking details; even though it appeared very sharp. I could with the original negative. This is something that occurred around 2000 when digital printers were starting to be used at ritz stores. As I said the actual photographs looked very sharp; they just lacked details that were carried by the negative.<br>

<br />The same is true with the above comment. 1080p is certainly higher resolution than 480i but visbily less than 4k; which is a bit less than 8k. The issue is that what we perceived as sharp does not take a lot of pixels; but if we want the details then generally speaking more is better. This comment doesnt' really address what is a photograph or how many pixels are required for a 'good' photograph; certainly not all photographs require the details to be pleasing but details are useful if they are to represent historical recording of events.</p>

<p>Did you determine the differences bvetween the original file and the corrupted copy ? I.e, is ir random bits; single blocks (or collection of blocks); specific bits (high/low); ....<br>

-<br>

The issue could be the card reader; the card; the hard disk; memory; .... <br>

-<br>

Enough data is not provided in this thread to determine the source of the error. While you cannot always determine the source; there are certains that can be done to narrow in on the cause.</p>

<p>That is good news. Let us know how it turns out.</p>

<p>The original EM-5 early batches had shutter issues. I had mine replaced for free when it failed but your camera is well out of warranty so not sure if they will help you. If you search around you canfind the range of serial number of impacted camera.</p>

<p>deleted. I found the answer to my question.</p>

<p>I priced one of these a while ago; building it yourself (if that is your sort of thing) will save you a bit; esp with your chosen config (dell tends to up the price a lot as you increase ram, ssd and such). I think I price a build it yourself option around $150 less for a base configuration.<br>

-<br>

Btw I believe it comes in a full tower case; so if you prefer something a bit smaller then that might be an issue. If you upgrade the graphic card in the system (esp high end gpu) you will need to also get a new PSU (by default the PSU in the system is bare min and dependent on model gpu can chew up a lot of power). A lot of people like the 8700 so it is not a bad system and they like it more now that dell upgraded the firmware to support newer gpu (you might need to upgrade your firmware depending on which gpu you buy and which firmware is installed).</p>

<p>I think I paid $400 for a new one near the end of the production run.</p>

<p>You might try asking photo.net if they will add support for https (which would solve the issue if it is a proxy). Conversely you might try chrome or firefox.</p>

<p>Try this site:<br>

http://www.zuiko.com/<br>

-<br>

Drop em an email and he will respond with reasonable advice. It may very well be the battery or contact; no clue. I had an om 2sp that worked fine for 20 years until I sold it but these camera electronics won't last forever.</p>

<p>I'm not sure of your budget nor how much display cost in your area; but there are quite a few high quality 27inch monitors that can be purchased for $600 dollars. They might require calibration after purchase (pre callibrated screens seem to cost a bit more) or might be 'close enough' for your needs. Some models include aoc q2770, vp2770 and benq BL2710pt. If you support dual dvi there are some korean models that can be purchased for for $350-$450. These models tend to have lower quality stand; require dual dvi (no hdmi or display port) and have very limited on-monitor controls (brightness and such); but they have full rgb and are a bit less expensive.</p>

<p>But no R parts in that list ....</p>

<p>I presume like all other updates; this resets the camera settings ?</p>

<p>I always liked the Aria; the one i had was very reliable as it was small and light but a bit more modern than the older models. I would avoid the RX. A lot of people liked the RTS but for me it was too heavy/large (before the Aria I used an om 2sp) but it had one unique feature - a vacuum to hold the film flat against the back.</p>

<p>We have a large number of slides (many over 40 years old) taken on a variety of different slide films (some have colour shift; and some are fine). We would like to get these scanned in high resolution and burned to dvd.<br>

-<br>

Our concern is that they be done 'correctly'. For those without colour shift they come out fine (not sure if colour adjustment is auto or if they will need to recalibrate based on the film used) and relatively dust free (no cropping) without damaging the slides (scratches et all). It would be an added bonus if they could deal with those slides that are faded or have colour shift.<br>

-<br>

We rather pay a little more and have it done correctly. Reading reviews and threads some place that folks have recommended include<br>

scancafe;<br>

digmypics<br>

saugus<br>

-<br>

I found a list here:<br>

http://www.photo-scanning-services.com/ <br>

and then proceeded to crosscheck from other sources some of these places but it would be helpful to find some first hand comments (for places to avoid or places that gave good service).</p>

 

<p>Is it the reader or media that is warm? The media will generate more heat if you access the data faster.... I've read that some of the older faster media cards (and even a few of the newer one) are not quite up to snuff at high speeds (for example a batch of scandisk 64gb micro-sd were said to overheat at higher data rates.</p>

<p>Bear lake area around Rocky Mountain National Park has a bit to offer; there is a short trail to three lakes (emerald, ??, ??); I never found the last one to be that scenic but the first two are nice. Also there is flag staff (short drive out of boulder); naturally these are nature areas; not sure what you are looking to see.</p>

<p>The oly 15 f/8 is manually coupled. You need to set the focal length for the IS system:</p>

<p>http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_support_faqs.asp?id=1501</p>

<p>(that is the faq that indicates what to do not the actual manual as to how to do it). I do not own the camera but if you still need help I can download the manual and go from there.</p>

<p>If you want auto focus zeiss has issued two new lenses (32 and 12). They are not cheap but initial reviews suggest they are quite a bit better than sony offerings. Also, vaguely, I recall they were apo but you should double check if that aspect is important to yourself.</p>

<p>Try John Hermanason:<br>

www.zuiko.com<br>

-<br>

He is very active on the olympus mailing list and is always willing to provide instructions (as time permits).</p>

 

<p>generally speaking the ssd shoudl not be used as a swapfile (esp if you are frequently writing to such a device) as it will significantly shorten the life of the device. Naturally this depends on the exact write rate (and size of writes) to the device. I profess that I am not sure exactly how windows swap logic works but linux tends to swap by pages hence individual writes tend to be small which is very anti-ssd (many small writes are horrible for device life span and utilization).<br>

-<br>

Btw the stability report mentioned above is actually quite favorable towards intel ssd (specifically x25 g2) with regards to reliability. Unfortunately the turn over rate (models) for these devices is quite fast and there is not much data on newer drives. Generally speaking newer drives are faster and more reliable with regads to early firmware issues (bugs) but are less reliable with regards to rw cycles.</p>

<p>I went with areo 36; which was a good fit for the camera and two extra lenses. One of the domke was also a similar fit but I wanted something a bit less bulky since I have larger bags. I believe this bag is smaller than the others mentioned in thsi thread. It is similar to the lowpro rezo but the flap on the rezo makes the camera hard to access while wearing; the areo is closer to the domke in that it is easy to reach in and grab the camera; but the flap does not over hang as far (a bit of a negativeI think; but a minor one).</p>

<p>The q6600 is still quite fast; it is not as fast as a modern ivy bridge the different is approx 2x. One thing I would check before upgrading is if your system is doing a lot of disk i/o (it might be the disk and not the cpu). Newer disks tend to be a lot faster on larger objects and ssd are dropping in price.<br>

-<br>

i5 tends to be a better price point than i7 but shop around. The verdict on windows 8 tends to be a bit negative but as others have noted ms is pushing it so it is a bit cheaper. If you can find a system with windows 7 64 installed; ms upgrade to windows 8 is approx $15 which would give you a chance to 'pick' between the two. For photo editing i'm not sure you need a super fast gpu; also I would target a system with 8GB but if your system is not paging then 4GB might be adequate (the prices different is around $30). New systems tend to be pretty cheap so I would price compare before deciding. <br>

-<br>

One thing to ask is if hd4000 is fast enough for photo editing (I'm not sure); if so you can build an ivy bridge machine for approx $400-$600 and use the hd4000 for graphics. For SSD the price seems to be floating at around 60cent per GB (for units on sale) but you have to spend a bit of time on picking the appropriate unit as the technology is changing very fast and some of the older units are not very good. I hear good things about samsung 840 pro and scansdisk exterme but am a bit data here since I'm not shopping for a unit (there are three independent factors for ssd; read speed (sq/random); write speed; AND longevity (rw cycles)</p>

<p>The 60 is fairly close to the 45 (120mm vs 90mm). The 45 is a stop faster but the 60 is much sharper wide open. Anyways the point of this comment is that I would use the 60 a bit before deciding if you need the 45 as you might find having both lenses redundant.</p>

<p>I've not owned it but of the 50's I hear very good things about the minolta 50f1.4. Also there are like 6 or 8 variations (optical changes) on the olympus 50f1.8. You should probably mention which one you are testing. I think the most recent "made in japan" 50f1.8 is said to be the best optically; though the older "made in japan" has better build. Olympus is very confusing. Contax also silently updated some of its lenses but I've not heard of changes to the macro 60. A couple of other 50's that are highly regarded include the olympus 50f2 macro (bit pricy) and the hexon 50f1.4. I suspect the olympus 50f2 is the best of the lot (though it is a stop slower than then 50f1.4.</p>