peter_hall3

<p>Some years ago I had similar issues with a M645, I never really found it, but after replacing a few light seals and fixing the peeling "walls" inside the camera it went away. I would look outside the box, so to speak, look for leaks in unexpected places, look for loose components (mounts panels etc). Check the seals around where the mirror flips up, that foam had rotted on one of my 645's, also what comes to mind is that the mirror hinge may be loose.<br>

To me it sounds like light is leaking in at the moment the image is taken or the film is advanced.<br>

Just my 2 cents, I have had many 645s but never a 67 however I would assume that construction methods would be similar.<br>

Nice photos btw....</p>

<p>imho, depending on your other equipment, I believe the 800 is the way to go. I bought a sb 400 some years ago and the a sb 800, the 400 almost never gets used. The 800 has been a truly outstanding flash for me. </p>

<p>Yeah having had this happen to me some years ago as well, let me just +1 to the scotch immersion solution, probably wouldn't work for the camera part, but worked great for the human counterpart.<br>

p.s. Make sure it is a good single malt!</p>

<p>If there are no submission terms, then politely ask to be credited. Even if there are submission terms, you could contact the person using is an just ask politely to be credited for the image, you might be surprised what they say (since you are not asking for financial compensation). Besides that, you might get some side work from the person using it, depending on the subject matter of course. </p>

<p>I must weigh in with all the above posts, $50 is way too low. Matthew Muskovac's post above is really the way to approach it. If you are feeling very magnanimous, you could ask for at least $600 for the year (50 a month).<br>

One caviet though, if it is so popular, and the client wants exclusivity (or partial exclusivity), then it would not be unreasonable to ask for 10x that amount.<br>

Don't shortchange yourself, your skill or your work. I have seen too many photographers do that.</p>

<p>I appreciate the warning, but to be perfectly honest my negatives don't leave my sight , with the one exception of a pro lab here in SA and that is just over night. I wouldn't trust something that I could not replace thru the mail whether it be international or in country.<br>

Back in the day I had a hard enough time sending off Kodachrome and Infrared film to be processed... yeah I am an obsessive compulsive control freak, I know (my wife reminds me at least twice a day)</p>

<p>I appreciate the warning, but to be perfectly honest my negatives don't leave my sight , with the one exception of a pro lab here in SA and that is just over night. I wouldn't trust something that I could not replace thru the mail whether it be international or in country.<br>

Back in the day I had a hard enough time sending off Kodachrome and Infrared film to be processed... yeah I am an obsessive compulsive control freak, I know (my wife reminds me at least twice a day)</p>

<p>I love the 7000, have 3 bodies, however they kinda fell into disuse for the 9000 for me. Compared to todays systems the af is slow and rudimentary, also they have issues with phase shift modulation or something like that... so manually focus when you can.<br>

The only problems I had were mostly cosmetic, the rubber grip starts to oxidize and look bad and the LCD's on top tend to bleed after a while (it seemed the mount put too much stress on the lcd causing premature failure)<br>

Other than that the only way I would let those bodies go is through "my cold dead hands"</p>

<p>I would be leery about 3rd party grips, a friend of mine got one designed for a A100, I always found it to be unreliable using his equipment.<br>

He also managed to "fit" it to a a700 but it was an ugly sight,<br>

To me it seems like a bit of a gamble like Patrick S. said.</p>

<p>Depending on where you live try<br>

<a href="http://www.havelcamera.com/">http://www.havelcamera.com/</a><br>

it is a brick and mortar in San Antonio, TX<br>

I have taken most of my Minolta equipment there at one time or another in the last 15 years, their Minolta guy is good. Most of all they have always been very honest and forthright with me. I don't know about mailing equipment to them for work, you should call them first and inquire, I have always walked in.<br>

ps I am not affiliated with them in any way except as a customer, and feel that people should know about them. Honest and good repair people are a rare gem this day in age.</p>

<p>Depending on where you live try<br>

<a href="http://www.havelcamera.com/">http://www.havelcamera.com/</a><br>

it is a brick and mortar in San Antonio, TX<br>

I have taken most of my Minolta equipment there at one time or another in the last 15 years, their Minolta guy is good. Most of all they have always been very honest and forthright with me. I don't know about mailing equipment to them for work, you should call them first and inquire, I have always walked in.<br>

ps I am not affiliated with them in any way except as a customer, and feel that people should know about them. Honest and good repair people are a rare gem this day in age.</p>

<p>Sorry you learned the hard way on this, I hope all works out well for you. Make sure you can update your site pretty easily or you are going to pay someone to do the same, oh and change your pass with the hosting co and make sure the hosting co is aware that the site is yours.</p>

<p>"Your 4x5 project is crying out for my copy setup." Michael Darnton<br>

Yeah that is the way I was probably looking to go, I do have a nikon micro 105 for the 35's that may work. I don't have my enlargers anymore but I still have the cold heads (knew I kept them for a reason) so that would make a good even backlight, I think I might have a carrier left somewhere.<br>

<br />"...What's available retail now is dubious." Mendel Leisk<br>

"ALSO BEWARE of machines that are claimed to be scanners when the are actually cheap digital sensors which capture film at a very poor quality level." J. Harrington<br>

That is what I was worried about and why I am asking, I have seen some $30 crap on ebay mostly out of China so I was worried their "advertised" capabilities.<br>

Thanks all, still looking for anyones thoughts, anything helps</p>

<p>I don't know much about the PPA's insurance, never gave it much of a look. I was unable to add it as a rider to my homeowners policy since it was for business (sources: USAA and State Farm). I had to open a special policy what insurance agencies call and "Inland Marine Policy".<br>

Most companies will not pay anything on a "mysterious disappearance" even with a police report, it opens them to fraud way too easily. If I have a bag with 18k worth of equipment in it and I am on a bus, that bag would be tied to me (literally). Not to mention a cheap GPS tracking unit hidden in the lining of my bag, this helps if you can show a police officer that is tracked and it is going this way, they will usually jump on that one. I have never had to actually track my stuff, but an officer told me that construction companies will often do this for their high dollar equipment and actually the police like this type of situation as it leads them to a major fence or someone sitting on a lot of stolen goods not to mention other illegal activities that the thieves are up to (usually drugs). source: experienced detective that handled high dollar items.</p>

<p>I don't know much about the PPA's insurance, never gave it much of a look. I was unable to add it as a rider to my homeowners policy since it was for business (sources: USAA and State Farm). I had to open a special policy what insurance agencies call and "Inland Marine Policy".<br>

Most companies will not pay anything on a "mysterious disappearance" even with a police report, it opens them to fraud way too easily. If I have a bag with 18k worth of equipment in it and I am on a bus, that bag would be tied to me (literally). Not to mention a cheap GPS tracking unit hidden in the lining of my bag, this helps if you can show a police officer that is tracked and it is going this way, they will usually jump on that one. I have never had to actually track my stuff, but an officer told me that construction companies will often do this for their high dollar equipment and actually the police like this type of situation as it leads them to a major fence or someone sitting on a lot of stolen goods not to mention other illegal activities that the thieves are up to (usually drugs). source: experienced detective that handled high dollar items.</p>

<p>I can not stress enough that you put a time limit on the usage, I only allow 12 months from the contract day before they have to renew or stop using it, else your image will end up in some awful bulk image service like getty etc...</p>

<p>A rule of thumb I learned (the hard way) is never do a trade for services. There is no tangible exchange of payment in these situations, so going through legal channels will be impossible.<br /> If someone wants to trade with me, they pay me for my work, then I pay them for their work. This will protect both sides of the exchange.<br /> I agree with Allen Hale above whole heartedly, always get a contract even if it is just a brief few sentences laying out what you will do for them and they will do for you, and always put in a due date. A client once asked "Why do we need a contract?" my response was that it protects them as much as it does me.</p>

<p>Stand your ground, but be professional, that is why I hate TFP's, the more you let them walk on you the more they will. I usually refuse to do any retouching (except on the images I plan on using). Just my 2 cents...</p>

<p>Mostly 35 mm b/w neg plus x and tri x, as I said old stuff. All my old 4x5 -mostly tech pan and ektachrome- I paid through the nose to have them scanned some years ago(funny though the originals still look better).<br>

This brings up another interesting question, I ended up with roughly 300+ pounds of 4x5 negs from a defunct newspaper, I do want to scan them, more for posterity, any suggestions, as I am realizing that I may have to not be such a miser when it comes to the scanning...?<br>

Also, anyone know how to stabilize 8mm roll film dated from the early 40's? I am pretty sure its nitrocellulose. It smells horrible, you know the acetic acid (stop bath) smell. </p>

<p>Mostly 35 mm b/w neg plus x and tri x, as I said old stuff. All my old 4x5 -mostly tech pan and ektachrome- I paid through the nose to have them scanned some years ago(funny though the originals still look better).<br>

This brings up another interesting question, I ended up with roughly 300+ pounds of 4x5 negs from a defunct newspaper, I do want to scan them, more for posterity, any suggestions, as I am realizing that I may have to not be such a miser when it comes to the scanning...?<br>

Also, anyone know how to stabilize 8mm roll film dated from the early 40's? I am pretty sure its nitrocellulose. It smells horrible, you know the acetic acid (stop bath) smell. </p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

I was looking for a negative scanner, for some old negatives I have. Problem is that I am on a budget and I really don't need (and can't afford) the latest and greatest.<br>

I have been looking around ebay and I see a lot of variance in the pricing, basically I am looking for something in the 50-150 price range (used is ideal). SCSI or USB does not matter, nor does OS compatibility (I can work around that), I was hoping someone would have a good recommendation for one in that price range.<br>

Thanks all</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I was wondering a bit of opinions regarding the Sony a900 vs the Nikon d3x. I know the price difference is radical, but I was wondering if the d3x is worth that much more? A friend of mine got the Sony A700 and it REALLY blows away my D200 in clarity and sharpness (even with a Nikkor 24-70 f2.8 on the Nikon). I was just wondering the opinion of some users of both and *hopefully* someone who has tinkered with both cameras.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Peter</p>

 

I hope I not asking a question taboo to this forum, but I was wondering what the

best machine primarily for photoshop and filter processing and some video work.

 

I was looking at the Mac Quad core Xeon's, nice but is it worth it? A friend of

mine recommended an older Dual Processor Mac G4 1.25 ghz. Or should I go with a

dual dual-core processor Xeon (5030 series or better)?

 

Basically my Asus A7M-266-D finally died it had two Athlon MP 2000 processors

with two gig worth of ram.

 

I don't want to start a Mac vs. PC argument, I am just looking at the pros and

cons. I have used both platforms and I like both.

 

Thanks for your help!

 

Peter

I have a question, can replacement elements be made for an old lens. The current

one is separating pretty badly. This lens was given to me and is over 100 years

old. I have new lenses but this is kind of a pet project. Any suggestions would

be helpful.

 

Peter