maize92

I've done it before with the same 28mm f2.8 series e lens.

It is really easy if you know how to disassemble the lens.

First thing you should know is how to disassemble it, obviously...

This lens is not assembled with screws but rather the lens' name plate that surrounds the front lens element. Without any special

equipment, it's quite hard to unscrew the name plate but there's

always getting-around for this.

What you need is a kind of double-side adhesive tape, which are sticky on both sides and the material is like a very thin (1mm)

sponge. I guess you can find it in hardware stores or even in walmarts.

Make 6-8 square pieces of the tape. The size should be less than

the width of name plate. Put one by one on the name plates. For example, name plate is a wall clock, put each piece on 12, 2, 4, 6,

8, 10. Give extra press on the tapes so that the tapes stick to the

name plates really hard. Take a piece of plastic or a cardboard paper

and shape it like the name plate then attach it to the tapes that are

already on the name plate. Now it's time to unscrew the name plate.

Use your palm to unscrew the whole thing. When you unscrew, you should

give pressure to the plate so that your plastic plate does not come off of the tapes. Once the name plate is unscrewed a bit, it is really easy from that on.

Once the name plate is completely unscrewed and off the lens, you will

see the inside of the lens and will be so easy to figure out show to

disassemble the rest of them. There's not much going on inside the lens since this is a MF lens. However, before you take off each piece of aperture blades, make sure that you remember how it is arranged.

It may be helpful that you take a picture of it for reference when you

assemble them back.

Once you're done cleaning, you should take off the adhesive tapes

from the name plate and get rid off the stubborn residues of the tapes. Screw the name plate back on the lens. This is pretty much it.

Good luck.

Thanks.

Hi all,

Is there any one out there willing to tell me about variants of Nikon series E

50mm f1.8 lens. So far, I knew that there were two types, one completely with

plastic and the other with a chrome ring on the lens barrel. Plus, the series e

lenses didn't receive the name "Nikkor" for some reason. However, I found this

image attached here and someone claimed that Nikon got rid of "series e" from

the lens and gave the 50mm lens "Nikkor" in very later production of series e

lens. Is this true? Am I looking at a series e lens? Except the name plate, it

looks very like a series e 50mm lens. Thanks.

Hi,

I was in search for a used nikon series e 135mm lens on ebay and found

something confusing so need some clarification on it. Attached picture shows

two nikon series e 135mm lenses currently on ebay. What I have noticed between

two lenses is they differ in hood size(?). The lens in the first has a built in

hood covering just half of the barrel while the hood on the second one covers

the barrel completely. I know there are two different types in series e model,

earlier one compeltely plastic body and later production has a chrome ring. The

lenses on the auction do have a chrome ring on them but look quite different.

MIR site has a picture of series E 135mm lens that looks like the lens in the

second link. Does anyone here know they are truely different or pictures on

auction are somehow misleading?

Thanks in advance.

Yoon

Hi all,

I use a Sign-Ray Grad ND on a modified cokin filter holder. I sawed

off the outler filter holding part and left the inner one which is

the closest to a lens. Hence I can't stack two filters but only one.

Then I also sawed off upper and bottom 1/3 of the inner holding part

to minimize possible vignetting.

Without modification, I used to get slight vignetting on my AF

Nikkor 20mm f2.8D (62mm filter size, no screw-in filters on lens).

Now it is free from vignetting even I rotate my cokin holder 360

degree. Good.

Then I got greedy to use a 81A filter with the grad ND. I screwed in

a 62mm Nikon 81A which I see is quite slim, and put on the cokin

filter holder. Guess what, vignetting returned.

It appears to me that with this lens I can't avoid vignetting if I

wish to use a 81A filter (I don't even dare to use a thicker PL

filter) with a grad ND.

Here's my questions.

1. No way to avoid it with two filters stack on this particular lens?

2. Lee filter holder instead of a Cokin ?

3. would it be a solution to use a MF 20mm f4 which takes a 52mm

filter?

4. Any suggestion?

Provided is a picture from F6 catalog and I numbered in red what I

would like to know the name of. You can answer in this way, for

example,

1. RGB sensor

2. TTL sensor

3. Metering sensor

4. film

5. AF

This is my guess. Thanks.

Thanks Frank,

Yes you were right. My camera was set to spot metering.

Ashamed of myself knowing what BL does but failing to figure out what was wrong. Having purchased Tom Hogan's Nikon Flash Guide recently, I studying flash Photography with my D70 and F4 along with SB-800. I was amazed how poorly I was understanding nikon's flash system. Tom's book along with some website are shedding light to my understanding flash photography. There are quite numerous variables to consider and set to do right flash photography. My question here was the result of missing one of them. Thanks.

In my SB-800's manual,

it clearly indicates that F4 (Group II camera) can be used in TTL-

BL. However, When I press "Mode" button to get TTL-BL, the BL icon

on LCD screen of SB-800 does not show up. In the maunual, it states

BL icon will not appear with Group III cameras. Any help?

Besides, I get beautiful pictures with F4 and SB-800 on TTL mode.