jim_becia

Phillip,

 

I currently use the Canham wood 5X7. I think it is extremely rigid and the weight is only about 6.2 pounds. While I haven't used the all metal version, I would think the wood version is slightly more rigid due to the construction. Tha metal version is constructed like the DLC (4X5) meaning that there are no angle supports on both the front and back. The wood version has plenty of bellows: I currently use a Fuji 450 on it with ease. To be honest, while I have never used another 5X7, I do believe the wood Canham to be an extremely well made camera and one that would serve you well. Jim

John,

 

And what is exactly wrong with capturing "images that in the end inspire little more than appreciation of some place, composition, or photographic achievement." I find that when I add my experience to the mix, I hopefully come away with an image that I like. I have seen too many photographers try to be different for the sake of being different. No message, but just different. I think that's a mistake also. Some people would say that it's all been done before. Well, maybe it has by someone else, but If I haven't done it, then I get a chance to put my imprint and vision on the scene. For some reason, I use to get offended when someone would call one of my photos "pretty" or beautiful. If in fact, that is what I was trying to convey, then I guess I succeeded. I have no problem getting inspired by "beautiful" areas. I photograph what I enjoy, if it's a sunset, fall color, rocks, etc., so be it. I only have to please myself. If those same things bore you, then I suggest finding something else to photograph. There's very little in the world that is truely original these days. I just try to find those things I like and put my "imprint" on them. And like most photographers, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Jim

Scott,

 

I use PMA also and it actually comes in 24 inch rolls also. While mounting this size is not recommended by Scotch, I mount my 24X30 photos with it. You just have to handle the photos carefully. I did a rather impromptu test with it last year. I mounted many photos for my art fair circuit. The photos would spend the summer in and out of my van in 90 degree plus weather. When fall came, I unloaded them in to my garage with the idea of taking them in to my basement. Well, that never happed. The mounted photos spent the winter in the garage (not heated) and the temps got down to -25 degrees once in a while. Never did get them to the basement and this spring I was a bit apprehensive about what might have happened to the mounting. Everything was perfect, so I like the fact that this PMA can stand up to extreme temperature changes. I have been using it for three years and think it's the easiest "non-expensive" way to mount photgraphs. I get mine through United out of New York and it runs about $1.30 per linear foot (24 inch roll), I think. I like this method for my work. Jim

Scott,

 

I have been using a Kodak Readyload holder (the one with the black pressure plate and NOT the newly redesigned model) for a couple of years with both Fuji Quickloads and Kodak Readyloads with not one problem. I bought myself another Kodak holder for backup but have not needed it. My Fuji Quickholder doesn't get used now. So, at least for me, the Readyload holder does a fine job with both films. Jim

When I use a polarizer in sky situations, I tend to open up 1/3 more of a stop. This allows for the polarazation effect, but it is not overdone at this point. This seems to work well for me. Also, my polarizers are of the warming variety. Jim

1. Lab

2. "Semipro" Have a real job but do sell my work.

3. Color

4. Digital scans from film.

5. Most of my work is drum scanned and then printed using a Lightjet. However, I do print smaller sized photos on Epson's color photo printers. Jim

Lacey,

 

In response to your question, I think it should be OK in a mild wind. I will not be able to put the camera through its paces for at least another 10 days. So everything I've written is based on my observation of setting up the camera several times within my home. Jim

Eric,

 

I don't have a 75mm lens so I can't say for sure that a 75mm will work. However, I do have a 90mm on a 12.5mm recessed board and when I put it on the CF, I tried to see how much more it would take to get a 75mm to focus. My guess is that it will not work with a 12.5mm recessed board. Now will it work with a Toyo 45mm recessed board? My best guess is yes. However, this is my "untrained" observation. Sorry, I couldn't be of more help. Jim

Ake,

 

I received a Toyo CF last week. I purchased it because I wanted to see if this camera would be the lightweight camera I would take on long day hikes or on backpacking trips. I already own a Toyo AII and a Canham Woodfield. They are both a bit heavy for backpackinging, but all my lenses are on Toyo/Canham lensboards which are compatible. While I haven't taken the camera out in a shooting situation yet, I have set if up svereal times and worked with it so I have some "feel" for the camera. Here are my impressions so far. Firstly, it certainly is lighter in weight. One of its nice features is to be able to store a lens on it while the camera is folded up. I tried my Sironar 150 S and my Nikkor 200M and both fit fine while the camera was closed up. I'm guessing my Fuji 240A just might work also. The focusing is fine and I believe the bellows is 14 inches. I will say that the bellows material is certainly not as nice as the AII, but then at $500 for the camera, I can't complain. The rise and fall movements are fine and the front swing works easy enough. My only "complaint" is the tilt and that's because I need to get used to it. The knobs for tilt are at the base even though it is axis tilt. It will take me some getting used to applying tilt just because I'm used to other methods, however, it is certainly manageable. The groundglass seemed bright and easy to focus. To close up the camera, you need to make sure that the positions and knobs are in their "zero" positions. It closes much like the old Super Graphics. I certainly wish it had back tilt, but with the drop bed and other movements, I think I'll be able to do what I had in mind with this inexpensive camera. When set up and locked down, it was very rigid. One of the nice touches is the set of bubble levels that Toyo has put on it. The back changes very easily from horizontal to vertical. All in all, a nice lightweight camera. I have it in front of me with my 150 lens on it and I'm thrilled at how lightweight it feels. Does it do everything a $2000 camera will do? No, but then again it will do 95% for a lot less money and in my case, will be a welcome addition to my equipment list for those times I need a lightweight camera. I hope this helps. Jim

Robert,

 

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I have been using the wood Canham 5X7/4X5 for about a couple of

years now. Very pleased for the most part. Weight is in the 6 pound

range. Has plenty of bellows extension and plenty of movements - at

least for me. I have used my Nikkor 90 on it. Rise can get a little

tight, but a little is possible. I have the 4X5 back also. All in

all, a very well made camera. And Keith Canham is a very helpful

person if you ever have any questions.

Thanks for the help and suggestions. I am going to try a friend's

rotary trimmer that is supposed to cut better than mine. If that

fails, then I'll try the paper cutter with the blade that comes

straight down. Thanks again for the help and suggestions. Jim

I have ordered a box of 8X10 E100VS so I can cut it down to use with my Canham 5X7. I have a rotary trimmer that I bought at an office supply store and have been "practicing" with it. However, I am not getting good "cuts" with it. Should I be using a typical paper cutter with the blade that comes straight down, or do just need to get a better rotary trimmer. Suggestions and help appreciated from those who are cutting down their own film. Thanks. Jim

I have been using an Acratech with my Canham 4X5/5X7 for about 9

months now and really like it. My only complaint so far is the metal

knobs. However, Scott at Acratech is developing new rubberized knobs

for easier use. It is extremely light weight and holds my equipment

stable. While it doesn't have the elliptical ball head of the Arca

Swiss, I have found the Acratech very nice to use. I use it with my

CF tripod and it is a joy to carry. Jim

Ted,

 

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You might want to look at Finer Images - finerimages.com While I

have not used them personally yet, I have framed several prints from

a couple of different artists here in my hometown and have been

impressed wih what I have seen. I also like their pricing. They

charge you by the sheet and they are currently having a special where

you buy one sheet get one free. Contact them to be sure of this

special. I like the pricing by the sheet as it allows you to make the

most of the paper.

Roberto,

The previous post is correct - it's the Wave which is located on BLM land in northern Arizona. Permits are required and need to be made well in advance.

Chuck,

In the southwest portion of the park is an area called the Bechler region. I did a 50-60 mile backpack trip thru it years ago. The trip starts up by Old Faithful area and eventually comes out at the southern boundary area just north of Flagg Ranch. What's nice about this particular area is the number of beautiful waterfalls. And if you hit the fall colors just right, it's very nice. Having worked in Yellowstone for 5 years, I think you probably can't go wrong heading off into any area of the park. Also did another long trip thru the southheast part of the park, and while very beautiful, it didn't have the wonderful waterfalls of the Bechler region. I usually head to Yellowstone for the first week of October every year and will again this year. I'm jealous of your 3 weeks. Good luck!

I am constantly praying to the "photo gods" for great light. Seems my prayers get answered oh so rarely. I think it certainly natural to want great light. I have spent much of my "photo time" waiting for the right light to happen. Sometimes it does, but most of the time it doesn't. I guess there's something about the phrase - sometimes it's better to be lucky than good. I've tried to tone down my expectations and to work under the conditions that I'm handed. And also to enjoy it.

Your situation reminds me of an incident that happened to me a couple of years ago in Yellowstone. In Yellowstone it is illegal to get within 75 feet of most animals. And this certainly makes good sense as bison, elk, can be quite unpredictable. I was photographing a trumpeter swan on a small pond with my 500mm . I was about 100 feet away and sitting on the side of the pond about 20 feet from the edge of the pond as it was muddy. In a short time, the trumpeter swam over to me and got up on shore and walked to within 25 feet of me and started to preen itself. It got close enough that the 500 couldn't focus on it. As a result, I just sat quietly and enjoyed the show. After a short time a ranger drove up yelled at me and told me to get up to the road where he proceeded to read me the riot act. He told me I was harrassing the swan and that I could be fined. I politely explained that I had jsut been sitting there and that the swan had come up to me. He said it didin't make any difference. By staying there, I was giving other people the idea that it was OK to get close. I think this gets to the crux of the matter - it wasn't that I was bothering the trumpeter, it was that other people would see me close to it and think it was OK to just walk up to it or any other animal. Of course they wouldn't know that the swan had moved up close to me. Now I'm no animal expert, but I would like to think my actions were not bothering the swan, like your actions were not bothering the seals. However someone coming on the scene could easily think otherwise. There are no easy answers.

Having been to the Paria area several times in the past two years, I think I know the area of this photo, or at least an area that has very similar formations. I believe this is an area called Coyote Buttes. It is on BLM land and can only be hiked by permit. There is a website with info on this area, but I don't have it at hand. If you e-mail me I'll look it up and get back to you. Just a few comments on this area - it's a very fragile area and only 2 permits are currently allowed per day with a maximum of 4 people per permit.