bob_hack

<p>Thanks Bryon, that was the problem.<br>

Note to self: <br />Image Recording - SD Card Usage: Live mode OFF, Push Shutter 1/2 way down to set camera in shooting mode, press Info button, press + hold QUAL button while rotating Command Dial for card usage OR Sub-Command Dial to set image size.<br>

Thank you again to all you good folk that took the time to help. Bob</p>

<p>Thanks Shun, When I press the QUAL button (in Shooting Mode), it puts a red rectangle on the screen and magnifies the image in that portion of the screen. Much the same as it enlarges the image in View mode. This I find valuable in some situations for focusing. I am wondering if at sometime I changed some setting to make this happen. If I did I don't remember. In any case, my question now is how do I get the QUAL button to work as it should - like everyone says it should - "Simply press the QUAL button down and rotate the Command dial".<br>

Thank you very much for helping this '78 old cope! .... Bob</p>

<p>Have You checked if in shooting menu, image quality is set to raw?<br>

Stupid, stupid me - no I didn't. Now I'm wondering how that got changed (so I know it won't happen again).<br>

Many thanks ........... Bob</p>

<p>Regardless how I set the slot options, I only get jpg files. Even the screen shows Slot 1 as jpg. I did a factory reset to no avail. If I set Slot 1 to RAW and Slot 2 to jpg, both come out jpg with identical file sizes. Both are jpg on duplicate setting and on overflow setting as well. No amount of internet search has come up with this situation, let alone a solution. This camera has worked flawlessly for over two years of very light usage. Sure hope someone can help. Thanks, Bob</p>

<p>During my daily hike recently, I came across these delicate wild flowers, all neatly arranged in a semi-circle. Out came my GalaxySII.<br /> <a href="../photo/16543819">http://www.photo.net/photo/16543819</a></p>

 

<p>I recently did a test with and without a 2X extender and the 360 KL. The detail improvement was barely discernible. I doubt that I will ever use the extender again. Rather just simply enlarge the image taken with the prime lens. This is not exactly the equipment you were asking about, but it might be helpful anyway. I intend to do further testing. In hindsight I wish I had just invested in a 210 APO. Cheers, Bob</p>

 

It is best to use a reversing ring and mount your lens backwards if you are extending your bellows beyond 1:1 magnification.

 

For macro work it is very convenient to have a focusing rack mounted between your bellows and tripod. This way you can get the magnification you want and fine tune the focus without having to move your tripod.

 

You will need to go more tele for the portrait and landscape uses you have in mind, although I have have not used my bellows that way.

 

Have fun, Bob

<p>I can understand your excitement over this shot. It is great. As as experiment, I took the liberty of doing a horizontal flip on it. It seems to give it a different dynamic that I like. Does anyone see this? Please excuse my using your masterpiece for my own edification. Does seem a sacrilege. Certainly not meant to. Any discusion would help my learning experience. I am putting together a ProSD kit, but I sure haven't got any shots like that yet.<br>

Best of luck, Bob</p>

I have only have the 250mm KL lens, but seeing no resonses yet, I will contribute what I can.

 

I am certainly very happy with it's performance. I see virtually no CA or purple fringing. It is my understanding that the SLD (special low dispersion) glass elements on the APO come into play more in the higher mm's. There are some makes where the non APO's beyond 200 are just not worth it, but that is definitely is not the case with the 250mm KL. I would suggest for 95 % + of your shots you will probably gain ... nothing, apart from muscles. SLD glass is denser, a slight increase in weight.

 

See also:

http://www.photo.net/large-format-photography-forum/00DiZ2

and http://wapedia.mobi/en/Apochromat

 

see ya, bob

After many cameras and formats (including two Bronicas) I now find I use my digital for most shots. But if I need better quality, I use my Mamiya RB67 Pro SD. This camera has never broken down (unlike both Bronicas it replaced). With the 6x8 back I have 50% more film than the Bronica 6x6. Actually double when you are cropping the 6x6 for a rectangle print. No electronics to crap out or learn to use. If you are backpacking, it can get heavy though so sometimes it stays home :-(

 

Besides a better image, when using the RB67 I get a real satisfying and enjoyable picture taking experience!

 

Ultimately what you choose should reflect the type of shooting you intend to do.

 

Not a pro - Bob

Hi Heikki, Unfortunately I have not set that project up yet. I have had to shelve it indefinitely. I also bought some Optical Slave Flash Triggers on ebay from "naive-buyer(5996)" but have not tried those either. Sorry, Bob

The Metz Mecamat 45-20 Sensor only works on the CT1, not the CL1. There seems to be no equivalent counterpart sensor for the CL1. That this sensor greatly increases the capability of the CT1, I think this is an important distiction between the Metz 45 guns and and should make the CT the preferred choice by far. I only learned this a few days ago, when I seen the above sensor listed on eBay by someone who had bought it that was told it would work on the CL1, when in fact it didn't. Bob

Someone sent me a copy of the CT-1 manual. Thanks! There is no mention in either manual of the trigger voltage and I am not certain how to measure it. Do I use a high impedence digital meter or a low imperence analog meter? Is it necessary to shunt the output with specific value resistor when measuring to get an accurate reading? The manuals show the same recycle times. There are different pinouts for both the sync cord and the power cord, requiring different cables and maybe some power accessories? Thanks John and Neil for your suggestions re home studio lighting. I will be doing strictly amateur/ experimental shooting for my own enjoyment. I have the Metz Mecalux 11 slave trigger and a non OEM slave trigger with a brolly. My plan is to experiment with my polariod back for each basic setup before using film. So both your comments are helpful. Thanks everyone for contributing. Bob

Neil wrote >If you mean a 60 CT 1, then its more powerful, and I believe discontinued. Neil, I have both the above Metz 45 units. Not knowing the exact differences, I do not know how to best employ them in a home studio setup (and elsewhere). Thanks for helping though. Bob

I would like to know the difference between these units.

Found the CL-1 manual on the Metz site, but not the CT-1.

Googled the photo.net archives without success. Can anyone help?

Thanks, Bob

I'm in the process of putting together a ProSD kit with KL glass with the

exception of the above lens that just arrived. The lens is new and came in the

original box (also in perfect condition) The instruction sheet covers all the

KL/APO and the above lens. However this lens is different from the rest and

this difference is not covered in the instruction sheet. Only the picture of

the 50 mm appears.

1 - There is a slider switch besides the top rear alignment marker. A 'X"

appears on it in it's present position. I am unable to move it (without

forcing), either with the shutter cocked or released. What is the other setting

and how do I move it?

2 - Also there is another difference. Instead of the two release cable sockets

(marked B and M.UP) on the KL's, this lens has just one, but with two settings

(marked N and M). How do they compare.

 

BTW what does the 'ULD' designation stand for?

 

Thanks, Bob

Thanks erie. Yes, KEH have three of them, although they don't say if this extender will work with the ProSd lenses. Anyone know?

Thanks for the eBay suggestion! I tried looking up 'Cambon tube' on ebay, photo.net and Google without success. Will keep trying ....Bob

OK, now I know that RZ lenses have no shutters and ONE thing that I 'can't' do. Thanks! Now I still need to know what all the options are for long lenses for the ProSD. Can anyone help? Bob

I am looking to buy a longer lens than my 180. Everything I see listed on ebay

(mostly Mamiya APO) is for the RZ or 645 cameras. Sometimes the listing for

Mamiya APO's don't even say what camera models they fit. Can these be adapted

to the Pro SD? What are the compatibility issues or put another way what are my

options? Is there a site that has this kinda of info? Many thanks in advance.

Bob