jerevan
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Posts posted by jerevan
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Hello,
I tried, as suggested in an earlier thread I found in the archives, to order a
new spare exposure hold button from Huron Camera (nowadays
http://thefotogeeks.com/). But hey, I am pressing the button down like there's
no tomorrow and tried everything short of a hammer. I can't feel it going past
anything that could hold it down and yep, it falls out again. The serial number
on the camera is 1419xxx.
Did I get an old spare part that don't fit?
I suppose I learned the meaning of YMMV. :D
Regards,
Jimi
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Really like the last, Hammond House. The smiling face of Wild Hair is very nice too! Makes me wanna take the Spotmatic out for a spin.
Jeff - like the street pic, with the Ford Taunus - one of my fave cars all time... Dad used to have lots of them when I was a kid.
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Patric,
you're a real Rollei-nut... ;-) Whether you should re-silver or change the mirror depends on if you are supposed to use it or if it's just a showcase trophy? A collector, I think, would rather have it as it is, in its original condition.
If my memory serves me well, there has been a couple of threads regarding resilvering/changing mirrors lately, have a look further down the list of subjects.
Good luck,
Jimi
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This guys made a couple panos with a Rollei and the pano head:
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Always nice with more good choices... Bookmarked and waiting for future wonderful adventures. :-)
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I have to chime in with Jay here; this is one of the most friendly forums I know. I check in almost every day, but rarely post anything.
Jochen;
yes there are other europeans here. Let's do something over here... It would be really great.
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Thanks for your answers.
It cleared up the confusion and gave me some extra info as well. The lcd is kinda hard to see in low light, but other than that seems fine.
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Hello,
this might be a dumb newbie question, but however, here it is:
Where is the lcd panel on a F3 DE-2 prism situated? Is it within the
prism or is it in the body, being relayed by way of mirrors or
something, into the prism?
The reason I am asking is to know whether it is any idea to buy
another prism. The lcd is quite hard to see.
Thanks in advance,
Jimi
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Well, you got the "eyes" and you sure know where the good light is. I like the artificial tomb the most. Good work!
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Hello David,
here's a very nice and informative website concerned with 127 cameras. The site has a (somewhat active) forum which is friendly and supportive.
Oh, and here's the link:
Enjoy!
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Hello,
check out this page - it might be of some help to you:
http://members.aol.com/Chuck02178/brownie.htm
Good luck,
Jimi
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The focal length of the lens (135mm - typical normal) suggests it really is a 9x12, as do the holders total exposable area. In any case, the holders are plate holders. If you want to convert the camera to use it with regular 9x12 film holders, here's one straight-forward guide to doing just that:
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It looks nice, this Vive camera. And the site itself was also very nice, thanks for the tip!
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I like the photos a lot. They have that little something... Maybe the Cord was used at wide open or near wide open? The triotar lenses on the early ones have a slight softness at the wider apertures.
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Retina 117, with yellow filter and Tri-X souped in Rodinal. :)
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I think you did the right thing, Dan. As been said, how many cameras does a man (or woman) need? Ok, if I just collected them; as many as could fill my apartment!
There's some hidden costs to the bargains; repairs (even if you DIY, it's your precious time), accesories "you just have to have", batteries, and of course film and processing. If you want to keep say, twenty cameras going it'll cost some dimes...
Nezt time, I'll take your advice, Lynn, and put all the cameras on the table. That'll help a lot against the cameraitis. :)
I know this much, that the sums I have spent on cameras the last five years amounts to at least one new Leica MP. *sigh* (only expensive new camera I could come up with, meeting my camera preferences...)
But, heck, I have had fun, fun, fun! And that's what counts, right?
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The Lynx 5000 takes 46 mm screw-in filters. Or a 54 mm push-on hood, as the Yashica guy (www.yashica-guy.com) says!
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Just an update:
I finally got round to try a reglue. Bought some contact cement. Applied it the "leather" and pressed it to the camera. Well, loud swearing followed.
The glue was too thick and thready and it all looked like Frankensteins little brother. It didn't bond well, either. Lesson learned: don't skimp on materials. Fortunately, I could rip the monster apart. Next issue: doublesided tape adventures.
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I think the other contributors have nailed down some possible issues already (haze/scratches on lens and maybe overexposure) so I'll share a link to some photos made with another Tenax:
http://www.wolkerstorfer.at/35/ZeissIkonTenax/24x24.html
I think these photos are quite saturated, either by choice of film or in PS. They made me want a Tenax, anyway. Or at least something that made squares on 135 film... :)
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Gene,
maybe one of those nifty telephoto thingies that digicams use could help you out?
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Yep, it's got a synch post. Tried to push on a standard flash cable but it did not pop on smoothly so I never tried too hard to push it on, thinking I might be ruining something in the process.
Gotta check again with the local camera bums. :)
Thanks for the info, Mike.
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Ummm, I suffer too, from this dilemma. I have a Spotmatic with a 50/1.4 and 135/2.5. The 50 stays on 99.9% of the time. I got the 135 some years ago. I think I've used it two times, tested it a few times more without shooting it. Way too heavy for me. Probably nice as a portrait lens. For someone else. :)
Maybe I could use a 105 or a 85 mm. Just wish I had bought that 105/3.5 instead.
F3 exposure hold button (spare part issue)
in Nikon
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Yep, I am trying to do a repair. I'll take a look at the pictures you have provided and hopefully I can figure out a way to get it to stick without falling or having to send the camera off for repairs.
Thank you for your help!