leo

I ended up getting a hama 49mm clamp on hood. Flimsy, but it works.

Hi guys,

 

Thanks for the advice. So far the lens has been working reliably on the ft, so I will have to

make time to investigate the issue later.

I have used this lens (bought it at adorama only to return it a week later).

After the first few rolls, I got really excited (and even posted here) but soon realized that it

really is not usable at 1.2 (at least for me, as I need 16 x 20). It may look OK as a small

print but

it is not too good for large sizes. It is just too soft and low contrast.

 

Right now, I am experimenting with an olympus pen and a 42 1.2 and am getting results

that are better wide open (i.e., higher contrast/sharpness), but it will be at least four or

five more rolls of film before I will decide if it is what I am looking for. Surprisingly,

enlarging the negatives has not been a problem with the half frame format.

 

BTW, the lens I returned was sold the very next day, never to be seen again.

No, the element is fine. As a matter of fact, the rear ends of the 42 and 38 look exactly the same. However with the 42 on the "F", the mirror gets stuck in the closed position after I release the shutter. To remedy this, I have to remove the lens and gently push the mirror a bit to have it return to normal.

Hi,

 

Does the 42 1.2 fit on the original olympus pen? It seems to block the

mirror on the F, but is fine on the FT. Is this the way it is supposed

to be, or is my F malfunctioning? My other lens, a 38 1.8, works fine

on both.

 

thanks

Thanks for your help. Are there any after-market clamp on hoods that would fit?

Got it - 49mm.

Hi,

 

I was wondering if anyone can tell me what lens hood (or at least

thread diameter) is needed for the 42 1.2 lens?

 

thanks

Hi,

 

I was wondering if anyone here could post some wide open shots taken

with this lens. Thanks.

I have been very happy with my horizon until it started falling apart (after 1 year of

use). The main draw was that there was no focusing...just keep it at f8 or so and all you

have

to worry about is composition. Also enlarging the negs to 16"+ was no problem.

 

I have since purchased a used xpan, and while I no longer have to worry about banding, I

find it a bit too slow/bulky in comparison. It seems to me that panoramic cameras are

more suited to a "central viewfinder/fixed focus" operation. But thats me. I will give it a go

for a while longer, but will probably end up going back a horizon.

I find Andres Serrano's "America and other work" to be pretty captivating. A less extreme

artist would be Richard Avedon, perhaps "evidence" or "in the american west". Both of

these guys have some very interesting portraits. Even though they are at opposite ends of

the spectrum, I find them both equally fascinating. ---

Do keep in mind that some of Serrano's work is a bit...shocking, but nonetheless I believe

that it is worth a

look.

Hi,

 

Having recently received a new pair of glasses, I found myself getting concerned about the

metal eyepiece of my m5 scratching them. As a cheap workaround solution, I stuck a

silicone corn/blister pad to it. By cutting out a bit of the inner portion (used a thimble as a

guide), I got the metal piece perfectly covered. So far, it's held on for three days/three rolls

of film. Hope this might be of use to someone.

I think the guy (it has to be a guy) who started this trend was the seller "camera$". He tried to sell a koni-omega with 90 lens for like $700!. Ebay ain't what it used to be.

Hi,

 

I am about to purchase up a 50 1.2L fd lens. The problem is that I am

not sure about which body to get. My two main requirements are that

it has 1-high eye point finder 2-is realtively cheap (i.e., less than

$200-250). I was wondering if anybody can suggest anything that would

fit my needs.

Speak of the devil. I just purchased this lens today. My observations so far: <p>

-In bright daylight, with a konica hexar, you have to rate film at about 50-100 asa to use it wide open.<p>

-I really like limiting/controlling depth of field, but to be honest it is much easier doing it with my canon tilt/shift slr lens. It's pretty difficult to be sure what will be in focus. I'll probably run three or four more rolls through the camera before I decide if I will keep it.<p>

-That being said, it is pretty sharp.

Primary Service Facility

725 Darlington Avenue

Mahwah, NJ 07430

201-574-4000

Hi,

I had the same problem about 6 months ago. I believe the code means that a microswitch or magnet needs to be replaced. Sad to say, it cost about $160-180 to repair at Konica NJ.

Not too crowded.<div></div>

Hi everyone,

 

I am currently looking for a konica 21/35 lens and can't seem to find

any online store that sells it. As such, I was wondering if anyone

here knew where I could find one.

 

thanks

I have the version right before it (cm mount, made in the late 90's) and would advise

you to stay away. They are as a whole unreliable, so why take chances for that sum of

money? Once in are in the $600's, just jump a little higher and pick up a hasselblad

500cm from keh.com with a money back guarantee.

Hi,

 

I was wondering if anyone has ever had difficulty opening the film

back door of a nikon f2 with the md-1/mb-1 attached. If so, what

could be causing this problem? Thanks in advance.

I use a canon 24 tse with a d30 all the time. Shiftng/tilting all works the same as on

film bodies (aside from the lens cropping factor). And the quality also remains the

same (i.e., great).

I have been using a canon tse lens for some time now (also recently started with lf).

My uses vary from architecture to portraiture. For me, the advantage of the lens is

that it is hand-holdable (~600g). As such, I can experiment with tilts and shift on the

fly. Given that your lens weighs over 1600g, I think that it will be impossible to

quickly set things up. So in essence, you will in fact be "lugging" it around. Anyway, in

regards to learning about tilting/shifting, I would suggest picking up the kodak large

format photography book (though taking a class would probably be best). It's well

illustrated, and should set you on your way. I should also add that (in my experience)

things did not really begin to click for me until I began to experiment with different

shots myself. Oh and do you know if the lens have an auto diaphragm?

It's weird, but true. Interestingly enough, he also took the 35f/4, but left the 50 f2. I

guess he didn't know that the separation in the 50's glass would have no effect on

image quality : ) .

Looks like a contarex. Great camera. The one I had was stolen by a former landlord so

that he could buy (or trade for?) crack.