jerry_vincent

I think we could argue this topic forever. In my opinion I think small, easy to use cameras (35mm) tend to be used more often to catch lively subjects. Larger cameras (medium format and large format) tend to be used in a more formal, posed manner.

 

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I've spent lots of time looking at wonderfully printed medium and large format prints only to find myself bored out of my mind. What dead pictures?! What an incredible amount of time spent in a silly activity?! Get a life, hey! Though I suppose it beats time spent in criminal pursuits. Though I can't really blame the camera and must blame the photographer for subjecting me to what are basically lens tests of his/her amazing camera.

 

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Yet shooting from the hip with a 35mm doesn't necessarily entail a great photo, more than likely it yields a snapshot.

 

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Certain types of cameras fit certain kinds of personalities. I guess each of us has to find what suits us the best - and then go out and take pictures. Hopefully the experience will be rewarding for all involved.

I followed Dick's advice carefully and now my 80 CF is nice and clean. From my experience I learned:

Use a precise fitting spanner - file tips to fit

Apply steady pressure - don't force things, the front ring unscrewed hard because it had some sort of glue inside to keep it from unscrewing unexpectedly

Have a nice clean, well lit work area

If unsure, spend the money and get it fixed by a pro

When I look through my 80mm at a fairly bright light source I notice what seems like a fine dust inside the lens. I plan on getting the lens serviced (cleaned, lubed, etc) and was wondering if any of you out there has had a similar problem with internal dust. I'm concerned that if the technician tears my lens totally apart it may never be the same as far as each element being in the exact and proper place. I once had a 55mm f2.8 Micro Nikkor that shed fine particles of paint off the diaphragm leaves onto the inside elements. The resulting pictures were soft and low contrast. That lens was successfully cleaned.

Thanks in advance,

Jerry.

Hi Jack, While the Hasselblad U was in my town I went only to see the free (free if you don't buy any gizmos!) trade show that was attached to it. I asked some of those who actually went to the Hassy U programs and most seemed unimpressed. I think the best programs are those that aren't tied to the manufacturer and are more centered on getting great results WITHOUT using a particular product. I do use Hasselblad and like it very much however. And I did buy a nice Hasselblad U t-shirt for $12. Hassy ought to pay me while I wear it as a walking billboard for them?!

Interested in opinions on the Hasselblad magnifying hood aka "Chimney" finder. Is it any better than my standard focusing hood? Thanks in advance. And thanks to all who responded to my previous question about the NC2 finder. Jerry Vincent.

Just interested in your experiences with Hasselblad prism finders. I have seen advertisements for the Kiev copy of the NC-2. Is it ok? How about the real NC-2? I see them used for fair prices. Anyone have the PM90? I'm very nearsighted and am curious to your experiences seeing the whole image through your prism finder without doing a lot of shifting around. About 10 years ago I bought a Bronica SQ 90 degree prism that was adapted to my Hasselblad 500CM. I'm happy with it but am thinking of getting a second prism finder for my extra body, hopefully an inexpensive one. Thanks!

I purchased 2 500CM bodies, 50mm Cf, 80mm CF, 150mm CF and several A12 backs in 1986 and have had great luck with them. I shoot about 25 weddings a year (about 10 rolls of 120 at each) plus some fooling around and finally had one of the 500CM bodies lock up last year. The local repair shop fixed it for $150 - basically gave it a cleaning and lubrication job. Two of my backs began overlapping frames 1 and 2 so I had them overhauled for about $80 each. As to the reliability of other models of Hassy bodies - I haven't heard much. As to the reliability of Hassy competitors (I will refrain from naming them), I am unimpressed as I hear from friends in the photo business regularly complaining about their cameras. I am pleased with my cameras and plan to keep them for several more years - and am willing to pay for needed repairs.

I love Kodak PMC. My local lab has an easy time making great prints from it.

I love Kodak PMC. Local lab has easy time making great prints from it.

Hi Steve, I asked a similar question about color neg films for medium

format a few months ago. The answer is posted in the films section of

the medium format digest. Or you can go directly to:

http://db.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=0002Ni

Good luck,

Jerry Vincent

James, Here is my opinion on three units that I've tried

Vivitar 283/Quantum Bantum battery: Cheap, light, reliable, compact, 3 auto f stops, full power recycle 5-6 seconds, looks unprofessional, gn about 100-iso 100 at full power in small room/white walls/ceiling according to my Sekonic 318(Vivitar says 120), kept for use as a spare.

Metz 60CT-1/Dryfit battery: Expensive, heavy powerpack, impressive looking, recycles very fast <2 seconds, powerful - about 160 gn at full power according to the Sekonic (Metz says 199), very flexible head, five auto f stops, sold it in effort to reduce weight-size of my stuff that I bring to weddings - a few months after it popped like a fire cracker and smoked during a wedding shoot.

Sunpak Auto120J/nicad battery: Medium price ($275), medium weight, looks professional with round reflector, barebulb capability, many manual power settings, three auto f stops, very flexible head, fast recycling, iso 100 guide number of about 140 says the flash meter.

I've always found the manufacturers to be rather optimistic about their guide numbers, I tested my flashes in a small room with white walls & ceiling after giving them a few flashes and waiting about 30 seconds for the test flash. Both the Sunpak and Metz have nice flexible heads - and both seemed kind of light duty in that regard. Yet never did I break off a head in several years of use. I gave each unit a comment to it's looks - I like it when my wedding customers are impressed with the equipment. It tends to keep them in line though it doesn't have anything to do with the quality of the pictures. I think a person could do a nice job with a Yashica Mat124G and the Vivitar. People are so impressed with my 'blad and big flash and don't see the fool behind the camera. Just so their checks don't bounce.

 

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Good luck,

Jerry Vincent

I regularly see ads for the Koni-Omega cameras at very attractive prices. Are they any good? Which models are best? Which to avoid?

THANKS!

For years I've been using pro type C41 120 films like Kodak VPS, PMC, Fuji and Konica's similars (shooting weddings mostly) and want to shoot some film which is more contrasty with more brilliant colors. Do any of you have experience with: Fujicolor Super G 100 (CN120), Agfa Ultra 50 and Optima 100, Kodak Gold 100, and Kodak Pro Ektar 120 (25 iso). I thought I'd like to use my medium format camera on personal trips and want to use a very fine grain film with snappy color like I use in my 35mm cameras (using mostly Kodak Royal Gold 100)and get the medium format advantage.

B & H in New York City sells a device called the "Camera Key Unjammer" for Hasselblad at $29.00. Their webpage address is:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com

I have used a regular screwdriver once to unjam my 500cm. It was kind of scarey - hopefully this tool would be less likely to slip or cause damage if it did slip. B & H is usually very willing to answer questions. Good Luck, Jerry Vincent.

I've noticed over the years (11) that my A12 backs are getting just a bit looser. I thinks its because of all the weddings I've photographed where constant back changing has led to some wear on the various parts involved in latching the backs to the body. My photos look fine. One of the things that originally impressed me with Hasselblad was how tight everything fit compared to other cameras I checked out. I suppose it is natural that with lots of use that the equipment should loosen up a bit. The only way to keep a camera mint is to keep it in a box at home. This year I had two backs serviced to stop overlapping of the first two frames - plus replacing a part in each that stops the film on the first frame after loading. One of my 500CM bodies also jammed (screwdriver trick wouldn't fix it) so I had it overhauled. If I'm forced to buy some more Hassy equipment, I plan to buy used but will make sure everything fits very tight. I think that is the best indicator of the amount of use something has had.

Dave, I've purchased lens boards for my Graphic cameras from Midwest Photo Exchange here in the US. They should have someone who can tell you what lenses work well on your camera also - I think the small size of the Century Graphic board limits lens choice quite a bit. Midwest's webpage: http://www.mpex.com/LF.html

A great webpage for Graphic information is:

http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/FAQ.html

Good luck, Jerry.