cphoto

Delete is not an option on this site. Neither is there a way to contact the owners. I will not be a part of this way of doing business..

I do not want automatic renewal. There is no way to opt out on this site.

Doing research on the Fujichrome XPro2 mirrorless system. Anyone here have experience with the camera. Shall I pull the trigger?

<p>Get the 503CW. It has longer lasting potential. Specifically, digital backs will work out of the box.</p>

<p>SOP for a long long time</p>

<p>It is simply because that is the way it was designed with the technology of the day. It is a center weighted metering scheme. You <strong>must</strong> follow the 3 necessary settings in order to use it. Use the sweetheart the way it is intended. Here is the manual.<br>

http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/PDF/HasManuals/PM5PME51.pdf<br>

Get some sleep, not worth digging deeper. All the best,<br>

Chuck</p>

<p>I certainly hope you have the original photographers written permission to mess around with HIS/HER copyrighted images. I wouldn't touch this with a 10 foot pole even if the copyright holder were dead. I would strongly suggest you contact the original photographer and find out what the straight skinny is. MOB is not telling you everything. Learning about Copyright http://www.copyright.gov is essential to this scenario. Refer the MOB back to the original shooter.</p>

<p>Hands down go for Apple, you will never regret the move. Adobe will exchange Photoshop Windows for Mac, you only have to sign a waiver. NX2 works fine with Snow Leopard, now. Aperture 3 is awesome. Best wishes on your move.</p>

<p>Highly recommend Epson over the PI3650. Try this link. I buy everything from the Epson Store.<br>

http://tinyurl.com/yapclwn<br>

Best,</p>

<p>C</p>

<p>Stephen, methinks the image size is set in your scanner software settings. It is not the computer that matters, it is the scanner software or the image processing software (Photoshop, Aperture, Preview, iPhoto) that matters. You have the best of everything in the way of hardware. Go slow in reading the manual. It will come to you.</p>

 

<p>Try this.</p>

<p>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pixel</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Use Adobe RGB instead. You gain nothing with ProPhoto using consumer printers.</p>

<p>You have experienced what happens when you do not format a memory card in camera before using the camera. You need to format each memory card in its camera BEFORE each use. NEVER EVER switch cards between cameras without formatting. Do not format from your computer, that, also, is asking for trouble. Routinely formatting in camera is so simple and quick.</p>

<p>Aperture 3 is terrific. Excellent improvements all around. Editing tools are expanded and work better. The facial recognition and the places thing is way too much, so I disabled both. Takes way too long to search your entire libraries. Aperture is almost to the point you do not need Photoshop. It is a great organizing tool. Oh, yes, they have much improved the printing features by adding a preset contact sheet routine. I am not a fan of Lightroom. Am tired of Adobe anything right now. Having said that, Adobe CS5 is in beta, ready to rock and roll. It will be a must have. Go with Aperture, you will love it. </p>

<p>David, Methinks you are set up perfectly right now. Capture NX2 is better, anyway. You are organized and know where to retrieve your images. Put the money to work elsewhere like in color management or monitor or printing.</p>

<p>Way way overexposed. There is no original data. Raw will not make a difference. I have a feeling your camera was set to add a couple of stops to normal exposure. Software correction is doubtful. Did you use aperture priority or programmed or shutter priority?</p>

 

<p>This subject is very very interesting the more time goes by. I am finding that the use of a gray card is probably not as useful as a white card. Everything photography is shades of gray. An 18% gray card is for film. Suggest a letter size white card, paper, matt board, anything white. Makes no difference about the brightness. Hold it at arms length and, close enough to fill most of the frame. Set your custom white balance in camera. That all should take less than 10 seconds. Point at the scene with the light at your back. </p>

<p>Sounds like you are converting to THEIR profile. IMHO you should be adjusting in RGB or sRGB, do you soft proof routine by looking at the image using their profile and let it fly. Monitor calibration is good. It has little to do with their printing process.</p>

<p>Also, set your white balance in camera using the custom WB setting. I am not sure about the method in D40X, read the manual. I would set it while in the air and window open. You do not say if you are shooting with window open or through the window. If through the window you should still set WB in order to remove the color cast as close as you can in camera. All aircraft windows have a tint. Aerial photos always have a high UV. No polarizer, you have a moving target and cannot keep the filter aligned properly. UV filter will help cut through the haze and smoke some.</p>

<p>Seems like a mix and match situation with a lot of variables. Soft proofing is only good for YOUR monitor with a given profile.</p>

<p>Hello Phil, I would second what is said above. Lens coatings differ, as does the direction of light and the surroundings. While Nikon Digital does a great job of auto white balance it is not the fine tuning you really want. Try using the custom while balance by going slow in order to get the procedure down pat. It becomes easier and quick. I use a bright white matt board 8x10 in and hold it in front of the camera with one hand while tripping the shutter for WB with the other. Arms length is good. Same direction at scene as you are going to shoot. I really believe the time spent in learning custom white balance pays off in the end result. Yes, shoot RAW.</p>

<p>Love my Nikon D3. I shoot Raw+jpg. Using Aperture, MacBook Pro, Capture NX2, Photoshop, and Snow Leopard. Aperture allows you to store files anywhere you want. You can use the Aperture Library, or any new folder you want to create. Aperture is VERY powerful with multiple choices. Suggest starting again with the tutorials and give it another chance. I did buy the Aperture 2 book and took the time to go through every chapter. The light comes on about chapter 4. There is only one book that I know of. Feel free to ask anything specific, maybe I can help.</p>

<p>Microtek web site does not list Snow Leopard driver compatibility. You are stuck until they update their driver. Call their tech support to see when they will upgrade.</p>

<p>A MAC Mini. Use your present monitor and keyboard. Buy the highest speed you can afford.</p>

<p>Has your monitor been calibrated? If not, do that before any other change. Use the Apple monitor calibrator in System Preferences/displays/color.<br>

Your monitor should use Adobe RGB, not ProPhoto RGB.<br>

Open the Utilities app. Go to Coloorsync Utility and run the profile verificatioin tool, let it repair your profiles. Do not delete anything.<br>

Suggest shooting a RAW shot to see if you get the same color cast. I shoot RAW+JPG all the time.<br>

Let Lightroom export as SRGB. No need to add the extra step. No need to save as quality 12 either. In fact, I quit using the save for web, optimize, routine a long time ago. Remember, web use is always 72 ppi. Send to Ritz as an original file without converting to web use in Photoshop.<br>

Can you post a picture for us to look at?</p>