erik_ohlson1

I'm of the same generation as you appear to be - computer illiterate until I retired.

I'd stick with Elements 2, if I were you. I bought Elements 3 and never use it: as usual, they "improve" these things to death. I find 2 a lot easier.

As to your specific concerns, most have been addressed in previous posts, but let me mention straightening an image:

#1) To make straightening easier, place a grid over the image so you can see for sure what's actually straight: View>Grid. I use this a lot to see what's straight, AND to help the Perspective Transform mentioned earlier - then turn it off to avoid distractions.

#2) To actually straighten the image, use Image>Rotate>Custom, and you can type in numbers which will get you what you want: just line the horizon up with the grid mentioned above.

Sometimes, Image>Rotate>Straighten Image will help, but it can also do some very bizarre things. It's supposed to be automatic.

If you just must spend more money, I can suggest a book: "Master Photoshop Elements 3 - VISUALLY". Yeah, I know it says Elements 3, but it works almost as well with 2. It's the Visually part that matters: they show screenshots with arrows pointing out what to do, step by step.

Check it out of your library, which is where I found it. There are other books in your library about using PhotoShop in it's many forms, which may help, too. Then when you find the one that "speaks to you" - buy a used copy on eBay.

Good luck! -Erik

Julio - I know that and explained it.

What I'm saying is that Bobbi Chitrakar and others might want to check out fluid mounting as cheaply as possible to see if it does what they want before spending the money to go for the whole thing.

Glycerine, being thick, won't tend to run on the glass as much as a thinner fluid (very important, to keep it out of the scanner's guts) and it's refractive index (effect on light) ia almost perfect for the job.

Thanks for your input!

-Erik

When I worked as a lithographic cameraman, I often used plain old Glycerine from the drug store to fill in textured photo-paper surfaces (like that stuff that's textured to look like 'silk'). Similar to what you're doing with fluid mount.

I'd just put a folded newspaper under the photo, add enough glycerine to do the job (you get so you know), lower the cover glass over it & make the shot - then rinse the picture in running water & dry. Discarded the newspaper & cleaned off the glass - not a big problem.

On a flat-bed scanner, I'd make a cut-out in a piece of paper to keep the glycerine centered away from the edge of the glass, put a drop of glycerine on the glass, the neg on that & another drop on top of the neg & add a cover glass. Simple, neat & pretty easy to clean up.

It might be worth trying just to be sure it will do what you want before making a big investment. Glycerine dissolves in water, but feels like oil - kinda' thick. It's easy to rinse off. Try it with an unimportant B&W neg first, of course. A 35mm neg shouldn't take much more than a drop.

With color materials, make sure before you start that the emulsion can take the rinse step - some color emulsions are very tender when wet.

-Erik

'Twas you I was answering in RE: Duct tape.

It was DUCT tape in the Military in the late 50's, early 60's, I remember - but then I suspect you refer to the British Military.

Yes, it is great to be able to fix things on these new whiz-bang gadgets, & that is what I was seeking - not to send it to Sony as was suggested by someone earlier; they'd charge more than the camera cost!

Thanks for the answer & "Party on!" -Erik

I was asked for some help with Elements: My daughter had to change some

black-on- white text labels to a dark red. The original image was JUST black on

white text, had no color content.

Over at her office with her Windows computer, I couldn't figure it out, so I

went home to "spend more time" with it.

Turns out, on my Mac (using PSE2) it was no problem at all, just Enhance>Adjust

Color>Color Variations>Increase Red a couple of times & it was done.

Went back to her office, and in Windows PSE2 there is no COLOR available in this

way, just "Lighter" & "Darker". We messed around with it but didn't get anywhere.

Anyone know how to change a B&W graphic image such as this to color in Windows PSE2?

Thanks, -Oly

Back on Feb 10, 2006 & April 1 2006, I posted questions in RE: Minolta Dimage

X-series cameras with the little moving lens cover not moving properly.

I finally got brave enough to open the camera & it was EASY!

Remove the screws around the sides of the camera, lay the camera on it's back &

lift off the front. The lens system is right there on your right: the little

lens cover has jumped off a pin which moves up & down - just put it back on!

That's IT!

Oh! Boy! Was there a lot of lint & stuff inside! Good reason to keep the camera

in a plastic bag - or get a waterproof camera like a Pentax W-10

I thank those who tried to answer this question by referring to the "Repair

Manual" - which is basically a parts list, or Sony service - I had already found

this stuff, needed practical - hands on information.

BTW - the optics aren't much more cleanable when dis-assembled: the big bit of

dirt on my lens is internal - no good way to get the top glass off & the top

glass appears to be a (negative) lens, and so if taken out might mess up the

optics. It's definatly not just a cover glass.

The dirt on the outside of the viewfinder is easy to clean and, again, the

insides aren't acessible.

As to the Xi which lost all it's screws - it's been a year & a half now & the

duct tape repair is still JUST FINE!! My sister doesn't even want screws, now -

enjoys having her "Tape Camera"! - it's more fun.

ALSO BTW for some replies about that: It's DUCT Tape: for sealing Ducts. It's

just CALLED "Duck" Tape!

Cheers, All! -Oly

I've been doing Photography since 1948

For what you want, I would suggest P/S Elements 2. I find 3 a bit more confusing & cannot see any reason to use it or 4 - 2 will keep you busy for a LONG time & it is SO cheap: last time I looked on eBay you could get it for around 20 bucks! I would also suggest the book: "Master Photoshop Elements 3 - VISUALLY" (I got my copy on eBay for 8 bucks)It works just as well as 2 - hell, maybe you should get 3 just so everything in the book will be there.

This is the ONLY book I have found which will take you by the hand and LEAD you there! Unless you are very computer savvy, you will NEED to be led: PhotoShop of any level is very complex & has a steep learning curve!

I haunt my local library & read all the books that come out to help with PhotoShop stuff & this is the only one which really tells you: click This, do That. Really, if you are just starting, I know of no other instruction half so good.

Good luck! You are starting on a really exciting adventure!

Not trying to start any arguments or such, but my experience with many prints differs with the above.

I find that 3MP still out-resolves ANY 35mm film, from 1950's tri-x thru kodachrome & ekatchrome, taken with leicas, various SLRs etc. (I have NOT tried Tech Pan, but used plenty of Kodachrome)

I guess it might be my technique, but in 50+ years, I think I might have just "accidentally" got a sharper slide or neg - but, the detail just isn't there! 3-5MP beats 35mm for real-world prints.

Just my opinion - won't argue the point.

-Erik

How large?

I put 2 on one P/S Elements canvas & get 12"X18" print from Costco - (3 bucks + tax) & cut in half for two 6"x 18" panos.

The quality is great & the price can't be beat!

-Erik

Interesting comments.

I bought PSE3 and hardly use it - I actually prefer Elements 2.

And the great news is you can buy Elements 2 om eBay for really low prices!

Chances are, PSE2 will keep you learning for a long time before you discover anything that would make you want to pay all those bucks for CS!

-Erik

I've been learning PSE for several years of the same frustration you mention, and the best thing I've found is this book:

"Master VISUALLY PhotoShop Elements 3" www.wiley.com/compbooks

I know EXACTLY what you mean - for instance, all the instructions say: "Think of Layers as transparent blah, blah blah..." but fail to tell you how the hell to MAKE a layer. GRRRrrr...

This book is almost like a video: A Picture of what you see on the screen with numbered arrows and numbered explanantions.

It's written for Windows, but OK for Mac - sometimes forgets to mention you need "Option-Click" for some things with Mac.

Oh ! Yes ! Took me a LONG time to discover this: on page 193 they casually mention the Brush Size setting: a little box to the right of the word "Size"that shows the size of brush selected numerically: click on the little right arrow (>) & you get a slider to change the brush size. MUCH more control than just using the brush style/size box to the left of the word 'size'. With that you can pick brush styles but only a limited number of sizes (and no really BIG sizes such as are needed for burning & dodging.) I know this seems obvious - once you know it !

This is the best book of the kind I've found. I haunt my local library and take out every book I can find on PhotoShop of any kind or number. I actually bought this book on eBay as soon I realized how much more it teaches. Had my own copy in hand before the library book was due!

Do check it out.

And don't even THINK of taking an expensive 'course' in Photoshop until you can talk to someone who has taken the course - many of these courses basically hand you a lame book & tell you to mess around with it.

-Erik

I found a bunch of rolls of B&W film of my Dad's which had been tightly rolled like that for about 20 years. Nothing would straighten the stuff - the rolls were like springs!

Finally rolled them backwards (emulsion out - they had been emulsion in) with a strip of paper in between the layers. It was like fighting a snake, but after several months rolled backwards, they are flat.

I'm hoping yours aren't so bad & will flatten a lot sooner. I'd try it if all else fails. -Erik

I make calendars, too - about 10 per year for my immediate family.

I use photo prints from digital files, prints made at Costco's minilab.

2 bucks apiece for 9x12, 3 bucks for 12x18.

Hard to beat! And the quality is amazing for the price.

-Erik (California)

Here's the detail of the Easter Island shot. 5 MP, handheld, on an 'unstable' platform!

This shot was picked moer or less at random, it's not a "once in a lifetime lucky shot."<div></div>

Go with the digital. I'm stuck trying to scan images from a long life with film. I haven't shot ANY film since I first went digital. The limitations of scanning I find to be the film, not the scanner: film is just not as sharp as digital.

BTW - Digital offers an advantage film never could: tiny size. I now carry a digital that I can forget is in my shirt pocket and consistently get better results than with film. This way I always have a camera on me, as most good shots come up unexpectedly. I don't want to lug a big heavy SLR of any kind, either.

Just as an example, I'm including a shot taken at Easter Island, handheld (obviously) with a 5MP Minolta X-50, the size of a deck of cards. Just a little Levels - NO sharpening. The overall shot is resized to fit the screen. The detail is just as it came out of the camera except for lightening in Levels. Yes, the X-50 is all I took on a trip to Tahiti, Easter Island and Peru. "Travel light!"

I've sold off all my Leicas & my film SLR. Good riddance. -Erik

Looks like I can only upload one photo, so I'll do the detail in another post, in a minute!<div></div>

Do keep in mind that a print that large will most likely be viewed at a fair distance: it will look just fine!

The suggestions to go ahead & scan it on the 4990 & have some crops made to view on the wall you intend to hang the finished print on are spot-on!

Don't know where you are, but here in California, you can get a 12"x18" print for 3 bucks +tax @ Costco (Fuji Mini-lab) which should be a cheap enough way to preview the big print.

I have a number of that size from 35mm slides scanned on an Epson 2450 and Resampled in PSE2, and they look fine at a reasonable viewing distance. I find the film resolution (checked against the print with a microscope) to be the limiting factor, not the scanner, although I do wonder if the 4490/4990 might make a bit better scan. I can see the grain in the Ektachrome sky, so I think I have pretty good scans.

Go with the 4990 & test prints - you can always go for the drum scan later!

Good luck! -Erik

Godfrey,

You wrote: "It's contrasty and, yes, a little difficult on color balancing. I would scan it to capture as much data as possible in 16bit per channel mode, get it close to right but not worry about perfect. Then do the adjustment and rendering finishing work in Photoshop."

That's what I've been butting my head against for almost a week. I just wanted to do a bit of retouching & have wound up holding a tiger by the tail...

Especially since many of the difficult colors in this photo are the Blue/greens - precisely the colors that the negative base color inverts to. It acts like VueScan is inserting blue/green errors in the attempt to invert the neg. base.

Plus the conflict between foreground flash illumination & background skylight.

Could the problem be the Epson 2450 Photo Scanner?

Reading most scanner forums most say not to scan at more than 2400 DPI, or even 1200. So, since the 2450 will do that, is a higher resolution scanner worth the bother? I'm thinking 4490 or 4990 as the 700 series requires a MAC with the G4 processor & above - planned osolesence!

No new computer while this one lives.

I already spent way too much upgrading to Mac OSX 10.4.4 to accomodate PS Elements 3.0 which I wound up hardly ever using - not significantly better than PSE 2! And that *&^%@#$% OSX 10.4.4 seems to have caused all these scanner problems!

-Erik

Godfrey,

Thanks again. We seem to have some differences in the terms in "Image Capture" - must be different versions of OSX.

Both this & VueScan do indeed have a bit of a learning curve. I do wish VueScan's trial version had some more of the controls - it's limited enough that it's hard to decide if it's worth spending money on. I don't mind the "$" watermarks, just wish there were more controls.

Probably my best bet is to quit worrying about my "difficult" photo. it's colors are very difficult to work with: critical blue/green fabric color, flesh tones and deep background colors.

Like your Museum photo - sort of surreal.

Herewith the photo I've been wrestling with, from a Kodak photo CD of the original - unfortunatly at too low a resolution, which is why I am trying to scan it. Uncropped so you can see that it is a pretty difficult image.

-Erik<div></div>

Godfrey,

Thank you for this.

Yeah, I found Image Capture and have played with it for a while - so far I have one neg MUCH better than Vue Scan, and the other (more difficult) equal to VS, just using the settings I developed on the easier neg. Different brand film, so more adjustment will be needed to develop a "Profile", I bet. Slides are a good deal better than Vue Scan.

Questions you might know about:

1) There is no "color negative" setting I can find in "Transparency", just "grey" and "slide" - is there some way to get a negative setting? So all the adjustments don't need to be made in PSE - or is that OK?

2) There are limited places to copy the file to: when I say PhotoShop Elements, I then have to go to Mac HD>Elements>find the scan & drag it to the desktop. Any way of getting it to Desktop or some accessible folder, directly?

Again, thanks a lot! -Erik

Great advise, folks! Lot of food for thought & experiment.

I am particularly interested in this "Image Capture" thing Godfery DiGiorgi mentions. Sounds like it's one of the apps in OSX? I'm going

to look for it right now!

I do realize that most scans (as well as digital camera captures)

need a bit of P/S tweaks, but in the case of the negs I've been using as test subjects, I just can't get acceptable color, yet local mini-labs can.

Thanks! I'll try these suggestions! -Erik

I have an old Epson 2450 Photo which used to work quite well using the Epson

Twain software & PhotoShop Elements 2 in Mac OS 9.

Since upgrading to Mac OSX 10.4, the scanner doesn't do NEARLY as well. At first

it wouldn't even recognize the scanner. Epson support finally came up with a

download which at least allows scans, but it's very basic - no controls, and not

very good film scans.

I have been advised to just use OS9 ("classic") but the Twain software no longer

exists in OS9 - the download required that all old Epson software be discarded.

I'm trying Vue Scan in OSX, but the results aren't very good. Working with a

professionally shot 35mm color neg on Fuji NPS 160 film (one of the few specific

films said to be supported in the trial version) the color quality is very poor.

Ed Hamrick's suggestion:"try 'generic'." doesn't do any better. Costco has NO

problem printing this neg. (I got a 12"x18" print for comparison while trying to

perfect these scans, just 3 bucks!)

Does anyone know how to make this scanner work as well as it did in OS 9 ?

Anyone have any ideas? Could I just discard the new Epson "Fix" and re-load the

old software & use it in OS9? I'm a bit afraid to try it in case it will will

ruin everything.

Thank you, Folks! These are some to-the-point answers!

Some other points, though.

Robin Smith: I have spent hours fighting Vue Scan, and don't expect

"Absolutely no PhotoShop" - On one particular shot I have spent hours with a 12"x18" optical print, AND a swatch of fabric in front of me, and cannot get a scan which will come particularly close. This neg is the one I queried Ed Hamrick about, shot on Fuji NPS 160 which is one of the few supposedly supported in the trial version. I wouldn't mind if it took a bit of PhotoShop - if a decent color match could be made!

Your advise is great, though, not complaining about that, it's just frustrating trying to get usable scans.

Particularly frustrating is that this scanner did a very good job before Apple "Updated" it out of existence!

Robert Martin: Thanks for the very detailed workflow description!

-Erik

I am eagerly awaiting the answers to this question!

I have an Epson 2450 - the older equivalent of your scanner.

I, too, can't get a decent scan in Epson software, OR "Vue Scan", which does NOT live up to the good press it gets. Ed Hamrick is no help, I'm afraid he's too far into it to understand simple user problems.

(His answer to color neg problems on a film which IS supported in the trial version was: "Try 'generic'!)

Ironically, my scanner gave much better scans with it's original Epson TWAIN software when I was running Mac OS9.

Once I upgraded to OSX 10.4, the scanner would no longer work. Epson finally helped with a download which at least scans, but no control & the scans from film & slides are very poor. Ironically, the scanner doesn't even appear when I go back to OS9 "Classic".

Normally, with a Mac, you can use "classic' for things like this, but somehow the "updates" have removed the scanner from "classic". I hate it when that happens.

Anyone who can solve the "classic" problem would also be appreciated.

-Erik