Jeremy Stein
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Posts posted by Jeremy Stein
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<p>Check to see if you have the shutter button on the remote in its locked-down position. Try pushing that button down and moving it; if it pops up, you are then off the locked position and your problems should go away. If not, it may be defective or damaged.</p>
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<p>Consider renting a 100-400 mk II; on my visits to Alaska that range was invaluable. I would also bring the 10-22 and the 24-105. That sets you up for anything.</p>
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<p>With regard to yellowing; some years ago I had a cataract in my left eye replaced with a plastic lens. The operation was a complete success, but I noticed soon that colors seen by my left eye were noticeably bluer (i.e., less yellow) than those seen by my right eye. Once I had cataract surgery on the right eye, the two eyes saw very similar colors. So maybe the yellow coloration is at least partly in the lens...</p>
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<p>No commercial advertising in the classifieds. If you want to buy an ad, that can be arranged.</p>
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<p>Under the top menu item: community</p>
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<p>I would like to know what other 7d Mk2 owners are using for AF settings to get and keep moving subjects in focus, especially at 10 fps. I have tried a variety of settings and nothing works really well in my tests. The camera is quick to initially focus, but subsequent shots vary in focus accuracy.</p>
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<p>If you have any sort of repeating strobe light, such as Canon or Nikon speedlights, or a strobe for disco use, such as used to be sold by Radio Shack, you have what you need. Darken your studio area essentially completely, decide where the model will perform his/her moves, focus your camera appropriately, open the shutter on bulb, start the model, start the repetitive strobe flashes, and you're done! You will wind up with multiple "poses" in motion, all on the same exposure, just as Doc did in your examples. Getting multiple poses is easy; getting good ones is harder, but can be done with no additional equipment.</p>
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<p>Try www.friedmanarchives.com.<br>
Gary Friedman has written ebooks about various sony cameras, and I found his book on the A6000 to be very helpful. He does talk much more about camera features than about how to do photography.</p>
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<p>try weebly.com</p>
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<p>@Paul Cervantes<br>
Just a quick comment here about the "ignore user" option; this would be an ideal way to help p.n be self-policing. If more than some selected number of users chose to ignore one poster, that poster could be dropped or perhaps warned automatically. That might help with the retetion of new users who have thin skins. It would also show moderators and admins who is likely to need correction!</p>
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<p>A Fresnel lens and a mask or snoot</p>
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<p>You are not losing your mind; your assessment of the ratings is correct. The photo.net history of ratings and what is shown of the ratings is long, convoluted, and arcane. I am in the process of examining the ratings of this photo and others and I expect you will see the overall rating of this photo change before very long. In any case, it is unwise and unhelpful to assume that the ratings of any photograph on p.n have any useful meaning; they are usually arbitrary and often capricious or spiteful.</p>
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<p>I have been using it for the last two or three years for all my sales, both at the studio and at shows. I have had exactly zero problems of any kind with it. I recommend it highly! Just remember that it is not free, and it costs a little more if you don't swipe the card (somebody gives you a card number over the phone, say).</p>
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<p>The CamRanger claims to support movies on the T3i. They also claim a range of 150-300 feet maximum. I have used it up to about 100 feet away, but cannot speak to longer ranges. Go to their website or contact them by email for more information. There is also a slightly cheaper device called a WeyeFeye that claims to do much the same sort of thing; again, go to their website for more information.</p>
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<p>I do a fair amount of tethered shooting with my Canon 7D and an HP laptop. The software I use is DSLR Remote Pro, by Breeze Systems Software (breezesys.com). I find it very convenient, as long as there is little movement required for the camera, since it is connected to the laptop with a 5 meter cord. Lately I have started using a wireless tethering system, called the CamRanger. It uses its own WiFi network to connect to the camera, and it is very convenient if a trifle slower in transferring the data. It also permits a much greater distance between the camera and the laptop - up to a hundred feet or so.</p>
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<p>I would be a little concerned about the peak power capabilities of the unit. They claim it can deliver 500w for less than one second, and I believe that some monolights may draw up to 8 amps (=>1000 w) briefly right after firing. It might be wise to check with the monolight manufacturer about the peak draw for the light.</p>
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<p>Try adobe.com</p>
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<p>What about the Gigapan Epic? Check it out at: www.gigapan.com</p>
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<p>Why don't you photograph a millimeter scale with the various tube combinations, and determine the scale by the size of the field of view captured with each setup. It would only take a few minutes, and the data would be correct for sure. It's a better way than calculation, since the lens focal length may not be precisely what is printed on the lens.</p>
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<p>Matt, What model of Lilliput display are you using? I don't see anything in their literature about a peaking display...</p>
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<p>Autopano Pro is pretty good and I've had good luck with it. Sometimes it does a better job than PSCS5, and sometimes CS5 is better. I like having both available.</p>
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<p>You can start by looking up all the National Parks and National Monuments west of the Mississippi. That should provide you with enough information to ask more specific questions.</p>
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<p>I use two sturdy light stands, one on each side. I run a piece of conduit (1" dia tubing, as long as needed) through the center of a roll of background paper, and I tie a loop of cord to each end of the conduit. Then I hook the loop on each end over the clamp knob for the light stand on that end. That gives me a crossbar for the background, adjustable to the needed height. It's cheap and quick and it all breaks down and stores in a small space.</p>
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<p>The lens has a fixed maximum (widest opening) aperture, but it can also be used at smaller apertures, including f/22. There is no contradiction; you have misunderstood the meaning of "fixed 2.8 aperture."</p>
EOS TImer Remonte Controller TC-80N3
in Canon EOS Mount
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