em_user

<p>If you go the Nikon route with the reversing ring, be sure to use a BR-2A and not a BR-2. The BR-2 could damage your DSLR. See this link for details: http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4618/~/br2-and-br2a-inversion-rings</p>

<p>I just purchased a used copy of version 1. Here are two useful posts on the different versions:<br>

http://shashinki.com/blog/2008/03/04/tamron-sp-17-50mm-f28-a16n-ii-short-review/<br>

http://shashinki.com/blog/2009/10/24/first-impression-tamron-sp-af-17-50mm-f28-xr-di-ii-vc-part-ii/</p>

<p>I'm not positive but I believe the Radiopopper system will allow you to use CLS in conjunction with strobes. Maybe someone with first-hand knowledge can chime in on the pros and cons of that system.<br>

http://www.radiopopper.com/</p>

<p>Suggest you keep checking Best Buy. It's showing as available now for me. I purchased one some time ago at the $599 price and have been extremely pleased.</p>

<p>I've been thinking about getting this lens to use on a D200 dslr and F100 film camera. My research, however, has yielded mixed reviews at best. I hear a lot about sample variation. Users seem to have to get two or three copies before they get a good lens. Also, I've heard complaints that it's just not very sharp. I do love the fact that it's 12mm on full frame (for my current film and future full frame dslr) and relatively distortion free. I'm wondering if I should go for it or just stick with the DX offerings (Tokina 12-24mm, Sigma 10-20) for the D200 and keep using my 20mm AIS for the F100. I'd also be very interested in other's hands-on experience with this lens.</p>

<p>The Domke F-5xb that Jeff Z recommends is nice but if you need larger (and less man purse like :)) you might consider it's big brother, the F-5xc. It's a bit more like a messenger bag and will hold your kit plus a little more if necessary. There's a discreet compartment underneath that's perfect for a flash but the bag can be configured a few different ways to accommodate your gear. Here's a link for reference:<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/538764-REG/Domke_700_53S_F_5XC_Large_Shoulder_Bag.html</p>

<p> </p>

Try <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-Attachment-Screw-For-Sd-8A/dp/

B0000BVE0B">here</a> or <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?

msg_id=00K7cG">here</a>

Thanks for the quick responses! <p>I know I said 7 AIS lenses but I only listed 6. I also have a 28mm f2.8 series E that I will probably sell since I picked up the much better Nikkor version.

Is the D200's ability to meter with manual foucus AIS lenses alone enough to

justify purchasing it over the D80? I've handled both cameras and appreciate

the build quality of the D200 although I'm not crazy about the weight of the

D200 or the price. I currently have seven AIS lenses (20mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8

AIS, 50mm f1.8 E, 100mm f2.8 E, 75-150mm f3.5 E, and 70-210mm f4 E). I also

have one AF lens, a 28-85mm f3.5-4.5. I use an EM as well as a N2020 body.

<p>

I've heard from some that the D200 works great with older manual focus lenses

but I've also heard some say that using the histogram and guessing is really

not so hard with the D80. I don't really need the extra features of the D200

(other than the lens issue), although I would probably use the additional

features as I grew into the camera.

<p>

I think my ideal DSLR would be the size of a D40 with the build quality and

functionality of a D200.

Something to consider: www.bhphotovideo.com has BRAND NEW 135mm series E lenses in

stock now at a price of $169.95. Apparently (reading a post on another forum) these are the

last of some unsold stock from Nikon. As some others have pointed out, a well cared for

Series E might be a better buy than a worn Nikkor... and you can't get any better condition

than brand new.

Sandor, this seems like the logical solution to me. But, perhaps there is a reason Nikon has

not suggested this as an answer to the conversion problem. From what I understand, the

SC-16 (square plug for older speedlights) and SC-16A (rounded plug for newer speedlights)

are detachable cords made for the SD-7 (C-cell battery pack). I think the SD-8 cord is

permanently attached to the SD-8. Could adding this "extension" cause a voltage problem?

I'm just tossing out wild guesses at this point since I've been unable to find any clarification

on this subject. It would have been much easier for Nikon and the consumer to have a small

extension cord to convert the SD-8 plug to an SD-8A plug. The SC-16A "looks" like that

extension cord but looks can be deceiving.

Thanks for the quick replies. Yaron, if travelling light is the objective, maybe I should forget

the N2020 and just take my little EM.

I have an N2020 body and a group of Series E lenses. I'm going on a trip to the Yucatan Peninsula and

want to know which lenses to take. I have a 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.8, 100mm f2.8, 75-150mm f3.5 and a

70-210mm f4. I'm especially concerned about the overlap of the 100mm, 75-150mm and the 70-210mm.

By the way, I also have a TC-16A. I'm thinking I can carry the 75-150 and use the TC-16a to get extra

reach where I need it, which would be lighter than the 70-210. The 70-210 does have some limited macro

capability which would allow me to focus closer and it only loses a half stop to the 75-150. Also, the

75-150 has great optics but a loose zoom which can be a little annoying, but not enought to make me

want to leave it home. Which zoom should I take and do I need the 100mm too?

I tried to post this to an old existing thread about SD-8 to SD-8A conversion thinking it would bring that

thread to the top but it didn't. So I'm posting a new question. <p><p>Apparently Nikon makes a power

connecting cord called the SC-16A used to connect the SD-7 (C cell battery pack) to newer flashes like the

SB-800. Why can't this cord be used to effectively convert an SD-8 to an SD-8A? See <a href="http://

www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?

O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=330651&is=REG&addedTroughType=search">link to product at

B&H</a>.

Rather than start a new thread I thought I'd dig up this old one and ask my question here.

 

Apparently Nikon makes a power connecting cord called the SC-16A used to connect the

SD-7 (C cell battery pack) to newer flashes like the SB-800. Why can't this cord be used to

effectively convert an SD-8 to an SD-8A? See <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/

bnh/controller/home?

O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=330651&is=REG&addedTroughType=search">link</

a> to product at B&H.

Thanks for the responses. I'm aware of the fresnel pattern. I just thought it was strange

that I'd see only these two, somewhat fuzzy, circles and that they appeared only after I

removed and replaced the screen. I'll have to pick up a Rocket blower for my bag as well.

 

And no, i haven't been photographing any crop circles lately. :)

I have a Nikon N2020 and recently aquired new focusing screens. The camera came with a

B screen and now I have both the optional E and J screens as well. I wanted to experiment

with the E screen , so I removed the B screen. When I replaced the B screen I noticed some

strange circular marks. These marks were not on the screen prior to me taking it out of

the camera and I didn't touch the screen at all. These marks are so perfectly circular that I

don't see how they could have been made by my hand anyway. I was careful to follow the

removal and replacement instructions. I tried to wipe away the offending marks with a

microfiber cloth but that had no affect. Any idea what caused this? It doesn't seem to

affect the focusing and I know it won't show up on images, however it's very strange and

somewhat annoying. (see illustration-light gray markes are the mysterious ones I'm

referring to).

 

On a related note, it's very easy to get dust on the screen that will show up in the

viewfinder. Do you recommend a blower brush to remove the dust or canned air? Seems I

read somewhere that canned air may be too strong a force for the delicate insides of the

camera.<div></div>

Thanks for the quick responses!

 

I can probably use the N2020 to "pre-focus" the teleconverter also.

I have a TC-6A teleconverter that works with my N2020 body. Basically, it's internal

elements move, making my manual focus lenses auto-focus. Will the TC-16A also work on

manual focus bodies, particularly my Nikon EM? Of course the elements would not move

and the teleconverter would allow the lenses to only focus manually.

 

According to an article on the internet by Don Ferrario, "The TC-16A will also work just

fine on manual-focus bodies."

 

Is this true? I don't want to destroy the teleconverter or my EM!