scott_sjostrom

We have had our GS sample book for about three weeks now. We just noticed that the

photographic paper is starting to show a pink streak straight down the middle of the gutter.

I called GS about this and they told me every album provider has this problem. The Metallic

paper and canvas/matt paper seem to be fine. I would love to hear from anyone else on this

issue. I have talk with one other photographer who said they are experiencing the same

problem we are.<div></div>

Debbie,

Did you ever solve your problem. I was having the same issue. I did everything everyone

suggest here with no success. I went to Adobe.com and

found the updater for Bridge. You should be at 1.0.3. Once I installed that and restarted

my machine I can now view RAW files. Hope this helps someone. I was ready to find a job

driving a truck :)

Thanks Ryan, I will check it out. I am on a Mac. I should have mention that previously.

I may have to get some software that allow me to run PC apps.

Can anyone tell me, is there software out there that

will allow me to batch produce a jpeg that has the files name

embedded into the image?

I like to give clients DVD with their photos on them, but

there is no way for them to know the name or number

of that file without a paper copy to reference the numbers.

Thanks!

Can anyone recommend a twin or double flash

bracket that they like. I want to mount two

speedlights in one umbrella. Much thanks!

In April I got a 5D and a Lexar 4 GB, 133x.

Shooting RAW this card would write so fast waiting was never

and issue. That was until this weekend when it was taking 3 or 4 seconds

for an image to appear. I reformated the card TWICE and it did not help.

I tried a slower card, a 40x and it took just as long, 3-4 seconds.

I tried shooting a high rez jpeg and the card did write faster, but I didn't

want to shoot JPEG.

Any ideas out there? Is this a card issue or a camera issue?

Another note, I have since heard that SanDisk cards work better

with Canon and Lexar with Nikon. Is this the consensus on matching

card brands with cameras?

Thanks in advance for writing back.

I bought a Dyna-lite power pack on ebay a year ago. It just stopped working.

Is Dyna-lite the only place that can repair this. The local camera shop told me to

send it to Dyna-lite. The ready light comes on, then slowly fades off. It won't fire

at all.

I imagine Dyna-lite will be the most expensive. Are there any othe options for repair?

Thanks!

I was able to text a Nikon D200 sytem with three SB-800 vs a Canon 5D with three 580ex's

for two weeks. The Canon sensor was superior, the Nikon flash system was superior.

For what it's worth. I'm looking to add a wide angle to my lenses. I test shot

three lenses at a local camera shop last weekend.

Canon 16-35l

Canon 17-40L

Tamron 17-35

The Tamron was the sharpest of the three in the center. Canon had better

sharpness from edge to edge, as well as better contrast and color, and less CA.

I was disappointed with the 16-35 overall and assumed I had a bad copy. From what I

have read on this forum I did not. Now I am leaning towards a wide angle prime. Anyone

have the Tokina 17mm 3.5 Pro lens?

Maria,

After looking at my test results a little closer I would like to add a few comments.

It seems strange to me that the Tamron is sharper in the center of the lens in every shot I

took when compared to Canon's 16 and 17L. Canon is sharper on the edges however.

The Canon lens have less vignetting overall as well, from edge to edge the images

has more clarity. The Canon lens also demonstrated less CA than the Tamron overall,

although they too showed some CA when shot wide open. Canon has the edge on

contrast and color. Reds are more red, whites are whiter...etc. Overall I was disappointed

with the sharpness of the 16-35L. It never came close to the Tamron, except on the

edges. It may very well be that the local camera shop has a poor copy of the 16L !

If I had a copy like the one I tested I would send it back. Overall, I found 17-40L was

sharper than the 16-35L. Tamron is still has the price/ratio winner doe mw, but there

are some benefits to going with the L if you feel the price is worth it.

I wish I could have done a flare test at the store, but there is only so much you

can do outside of a controlled environment.

If your interested in any images I shot, email me. Sjobizmedia@hotmail.com

Maria,

Just looked at some images from the test. For the money Tamron wins it for us.

We will use the extra cash to pick up two other Canon lens on our list.

I will post some images later. Just wanted to let you know asap. Remember

gang, I was looking for value. The Canon 16-35 is better, but not enough to

justify the price tag. Thank you all for your opinions.

Maria,

I going to try to go to a local camera store this weekend and test the

two canon L's as well as the Tamron 17-35. Look for a posting from me.

Here is a new one I just saw at Adorama. Notice the 50mm.

Hasn't even shipped yet, but you can order it. This is

not a FF lens however.

Tamron SP AF17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical

I'm dealing with the same decision, on the 5D however.

These have been recommended to me:

Tamron 17-35 - both full frame rectilinear lenses.

"People call this the poor mans L lens."

What do you all think about that comment?

Tokina 17mm f/3.5 prime

Thanks for all you valuable input. I have learned a lot.

For now I would say it's between these lenses:

Tamron SP AF17-35mm f/2.8-4

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L

Tokina AF 17mm f/3.5 ATX PRO

Any other comments is greatly appreciated. It's been helpful.

I'm looking to add a wide angle to my set up, currently a 5D, 24-70L 2.8, 70-200 2.8 IS.

I will be using if for an occasional wide shot at wedding and events. I would love to hear

what others think about the options below. I'm having a hard time deciding. I'm looking

for value in this lens since I won't use it all that often.

Canon 17-40mm L f4

Canon 15mm f2.8

Canon 10-22mm f3.5-4.5

Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6

Tokina 12-24mm f4

Thanks all !

I'm trying to learn the Canon 580ex wireless system. I find the master strobe

usually fires in the OFF setting. The icon on the LCD monitor has a blinking

bolt and there are no rays coming from the strobe icon either. In other words,

I have the setting correct, but the stobe still fires. Is this pre-flash? Why then

does it sometimes not strobe at all and set the A and B strobes off. This is both

confusing and frustrating, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks! Scott

Erick,

Which head did you end up going with on your new tripod? I am in the market for

a new tripod as well. I also have a 5D with a 70-200mm f2.8. Any head work

better than another when you have the 70-200 on the tripod?

Reality check ! ....how about it's 2006 and Nikon has developed a powerful tool with

an informative viewfinder...Canon is obviously behind on this one.

I like to ride my flash compensator, it's a major inconvience to

having to tap a button to see where it's at. The 5D kills the D200

in image quality, just wish it had some of the features Nikon thinks about.

It's always a trade off, the EX580 has a cheap shoe, the NIkon SB-800 has

a metal one. The EX580 has a more flexible head & recycles faster.

I just bought a 5D after having a Nikon D200 for two weeks. One benefit to the D200

was all the available information just by looking through the viewfinder. ISO, flash

comp, exp comp, WB....it was all there. In the 5D all I see is shutter speed and F. stop,

along with the -2 to +2 exposure scale, and burst rate.

I've checked the manuel and found no way to expand the information. Can't this camera

talk to you like a D200?

I also notice that the information in the viewfinder only displays itself for 3 sec,

another thing I would change if you can?

BTW, I switched to Canon because of the superior sensor at high ISO, but it's not quite as

user friendly as a Nikon.