bill koenig

<p>Thanks for the reply Patrick,</p>

<p>OK, here's more info. This is a B&W pano, I'm printing this on a Epson 3800. The reason I'm printing from XP is the fact that the 3800 can only print 37.4" long and my pano is 42" long. I'm using a App that allows me to print longer than 37.4" thus the need to print from XP and CS3<br>

The problem is the fact that my color management software isn't active in XP anymore. All of the editing was done and saved in CS5 (Win7 64 with color management active)<br>

If I tell CS3 to manage color and use sRGB as the profile (this is how I'd setup the ABW driver in CS5) and don't forget, color management isn't active in WinXP (this is were I have CS3) the print I get is dark, just like what I see on the non color managed screen. But if I set CS3 to "No Color Management" and print with the ABW driver, the print looks as it did when I saved it in CS5 with color management active (CS5 runs on Win7 64 with color management active)<br>

The bottom line here, I don't want CS3 applying any color management at all, I just want my print to look the same as it did when I saved it in CS5.<br>

So my question, does the file saved in "color managed CS5" have some kind of tag that tells the Epson driver to print the image the way its was saved in CS5, regardless of the fact that there isn't any color management active in CS3?<br>

Sorry, I hope I didn't confuse anyone, this is hard to explain. </p>

 

<p>If I have a file I saved saved in CS5/Lightroom 3.5 with color management active and it looks great. <br>

Then I open winXP (I have duel boot setup) but now color management is not active. I open CS3 bring in the image saved earlier in CS5, tell CS3 to open the image in the images own color space, the image looks considerably darker than it looked in CS5, which would be expected with out CM active.<br>

This is a B&W image and I'm going use the Epson ABW driver to print, if I tell CS3 "No Color management" and print with the Epson ABW driver, would Epson read the tag from color managed CS5 file and print the image correctly? <br>

I have tested this out, and I think I have this right, but could someone confirm my understanding of color management.<br>

Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>Win7 can image your OS, take a close look at this, its the best insurance you can get if you ever need to recover your system for what ever reason.<br>

So get your self a external hard drive, and have Win7 store the image of your OS there.<br>

Listen to what Garrison is telling you, ask more questions if needed, its the best advice you have received so far.</p>

<p>Anyone here from the Madison Wisconsin area? What's your favorite Gallery for viewing photographic art?<br>

Of course I've done a search on this topic, but it came back with so much info, it would be a crap shoot trying to chose which ones to check out.<br>

So I'm asking for recommendations to help make the best of my time, which will be somewhat limited, and I'm looking places that specialize in photography.<br>

Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>Hi Dave,<br>

I wasn't very clear as to what I was looking for. I understand how to bring in my selection, but its the backdrop it self that I need. Is there a place where I can down load backdrops on the web, or is there a way in photoshop that I can make my own?<br>

I did do a search, but so far I've only come up with painted muslin backdrops for more money than I want to spend.<br>

My question was just quick idea, not well thought out. I guess I need to get out with the camera and just open my eyes.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p> </p>

I took a head and shoulder shot for a friend the other day. I used two speed lights and shoot through umbrellas

on light stands. I shot this with a dark hallway for a background. The picture turned out very nice, but my

friend doesn't like the dark (almost black) background.

The fact that it was so dark made it easy to make a very good selection of her head and hair.

Question, is there a way in photoshop to make a backdrop that would make it look like it was taken in a studio?

Then I could paste my selection into it, then maybe play with the a radial gradient to make it look right.

Ok, at least you know what I'm trying to do, its just a idea, but is it possible?

<p>In CS3 convert to smart object and select free transform, this is a nondestructive edit, it doesn't really get much better than that.</p>

<p>There are so many old computers out there just collecting dust, ask around, you might be surprised.</p>

<p>You've received good advice, keep using the laptop, save your money, buy a great monitor when you can afford it. </p>

<p>NEC has just come out with a new line of monitors.<br /> NEC is announcing its new PA series for the start of 2010. The LCD monitors features a LCD panel from the IPS technology. The PA series comes in four models from 23 to 30 inches.<br /> <a href="http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1260108113">New IPS PA-series from NEC - FlatpanelsHD</a><br /> Save for the best monitor, yeah, the good ones cost a lot, but you get what you pay for, buy a great monitor now, and you only have to buy it once.<br /> The Dell's are inexpensive, but way to bright, IMO.<br /> In regards to Photo Shop, CS5 has some pretty cool new features. I agree with Harry, I also think Photo Shop is a must, and to be sure, lightroom can do most of what's needed, but are many things that PS can do, that LR can't. I just couldn't be with out it.<br /> IMO If this is just a hobby, and you don't shoot hundreds of frames a day, I would start out with CS5, and down the road think about lightroom.<br>

Printers, you can't go wrong with the Epson 3880.</p>

<p>I would not use compressed air, by doing so, you could blow all of the crud into bearings or the mechanics of the printer, this would not be a good thing for your printer.</p>

<p>I've read somewhere that copying a image in PS and pasting it to a new document will strip the Exif data in the new document. I haven't tried it.</p>

<p>I forgot this one, Red River Arctic Polar Luster.</p>

<p>I've used Harman FB AL and IGSF, I really love the feel and the blacks that these fiber based papers can achieve, but printed 16x24 on 17x25 cut sheets on my Epson 3800 and matted and framed 32x24 using a T hinge mount and a double mat, this paper won't sit flat. Waviness and ripples can be seen, and I haven't found a solution that will work with these papers, so for this size, I'll need to go back to a RC papers.<br>

There aren't many papers in 17x25 cut sheets, but Red River has quite a few. I would like some feed back on the following papers, and how well they sit flat after printing. Also, I do a lot of B&W printing, and shoot quite a few night scenes, so there will be a lot of black ink layed down, which doesn't help the flatness problem.<br>

Other recommendations are welcome, thanks for any help.</p>

<p>Red River UltraPro Satin 2.0<br>

<strong>Red River Arctic Polar Satin</strong> </p>

<p>I just converted 100 raw files to jpg's using ACR. I selected all of them in bridge, opened them in ACR selected all of then in ACR, made if few minor adjustments which will be applied globally to all of the images. Set ACR to save as sRGB, hit the save button, there I told it to save them as level 5 jpg's and select the folder to save them to.</p>

<p>Down load the trial of Photomatix Pro and give a try, its free, but it will leave a watermark until purchased.</p>

<p>APP is IMO is great, try rendering a 5 row 50 image pano in PhotoShop, with APP you really don't have many settings that need adjusting, point it at a folder and let it go.</p>

<p>Here is what I've found on the Photomatix web site.</p>

<p>Creating an HDR image requires to assign an exposure to each source image. Photomatix automatically retrieves the exposure information from EXIF data. When the images do not have EXIF data, Photomatix will let you enter the exposure values manually, or automatically estimate them when running in batch mode. <a name="differences"></a></p>

<p>When doing a batch conversion in Photomatix Pro, one of first things that I see as it starts the conversion is something like this "No EXIF data available" so I think it does use this info. I'll take a closer look at Photomatix.</p>

<p>When I making HDR images I bring my bracketed raw files in to ACR and save with no adjustments as a tiff and then bring them into Photomatix. I've read that ACR is supposed to embed the EXIF data in the tiff file, but its not doing this. What am I doing wrong?</p>

<p>I've searched for answer to this question, but found nothing so far. Is there away in CS3 to copy adjustment layer settings from one image to another?</p>

<p>Thanks, yes, the driver has been installed. I will try turning the sensitivity down.</p>

<p>With the Wacom tablet, when trying to make a selection in CS3 using polygonal lasso tool, I get half way through and then photoshop makes a selection, even thought I never hit the enter key. What am I doing wrong?</p>

<p>Is there such a thing? I would like to print a label with a peel off adhesive back, but its got to be at least letter size.</p>

<p>Why not try to stitch multiple images in photoshop, that should give you enought resolution to hit image size she wants. I would use a long lens and tripod.</p>