slawek_jacek

<p>I have purchased this one from Tomtop thru their Ebay store.<br>

<br />The flash worked fine for a few months, then it died, completely - no sign of life whatsoever. I wrote to Tomtop a few times asking for a replacement. When they finally answered, they said that I have to send the broken unit back to them at my cost. I have send it with a note attached. I didn't hear back for several months. After few more emails they ancknowledged that they have received my unit. They said they would send me the replacement flash and email me with the package tracking number. That was SIX MONTH AGO. Since then they do not reply to my emails (I have sent a few).</p>

<p>Unless you are willing to consider it a short term, disposable item, DO NOT BUY THIS FLASH.</p>

<p>If you decide to buy it, pick the reputable seller and get extended warranty if available!</p>

<p>Another try for a picture. Sorry</p><div></div>

<p>Here is a sample handheld shot with my Pentax-FA 100-300mm F4.7-5.8 lens at 300mm wide open, 1/250 sec. </p>

<p>I have a Pentax-FA 100-300mm F4.7-5.8 and can recommend it if you are looking to try for something good and inexpensive to shoot outdoors. Very light - it's a pleasure to work with. Very sharp at short end. Very acceptable at long end. Excellent color and contrast. Zooming is not the fastest due to the long range. It does not haunt however - just motors it's way to the proper AF point. Being a FF lens is good for my film body too :-).<br>

Some people mind light lenses saying they are not rugged enough. This one is probably one of these lenses - it's featherweight and it would likely brake if dropped on the ground. But which lens is safe to drop??? With this one at least you won't despair (get another one). <br>

I ran a direct test against a new 55-300 at the photo show. The results were slightly better with my old 100-300 so I decided not to upgrade (to 55-300mm). I also compared it to the Pentax 80-320mm which I acquired as a part of a kit. This one was beat hands down. I sold it quickly.<br>

The FA 100-300 is a sleeper. If you decide to get one just make sure you get the F4.7-5.8 version of it.<br /><br /></p>

<p>I replaced sigma 18-50/2.8 with sigma 17-70 and I am quite happy about it. The range fits well between 10-20 and 100-300. The IQ is quite satisfactory. Yes, it gets slower at the longer end, but I rarely shoot (any) zoom wide open anyways. For me using a zoom is about fast shooting where there is no time for acurate focusing and F8 works wonders.<br>

For low light, nice bokeh, studio shots, etc I always use primes. Pentax zooms are better but also are heavier and expensive. If my sigma ever brakes or gets damaged, I 'll just go and get another one...<br>

I dumped Sigma 18-50 not because of IQ, but because of the range.<br>

And the last thing - 17-70 has actually quite pleasing bokeh (when you can get it with f2.8). The out of focus circles are round and evenly filled with light, not a ring type.</p>

<p>I agree that for a walkaround lens f2.8 zoom is a good choice. Please note however that if you "do like shallow depth of field" in most cases you will need a prime lens.<br>

I consider my setup to be "budget" style, yet it works for me: Sigma 17-70 f2.8-4 for general use, Sigma 10-20mm for landscapes (my most used lens), FA 50/1.4 for portraits with narrow depth of field. I also used to have FA100mm f3.5, which I have sold and miss it now.<br>

I upgraded the kit lens to Sigma 18-50 f2.8 at first, but then I figured that I seldom use it at f2.8 and I decided that the longer reach of 17-70 is more important to me than constant f2.8.<br>

If I was in your shoes I would go after a fast prime first. Try to find F/FA 50 f1.7 they can be found used for around $120 mark. The best Pentax value out there.</p>

<p>At one point I ended up with two 50's - FA1.4 and F1.7. I've found them to be identical above f2.8. Bolow f2.8 these are very different lenses. F1.7 was somewhat sharper, but FA1.4 gave this gorgeus glow effect which I find irresistible in portraits.<br>

I've sold 1.7 and kept 1.4. Does anybody know if the A1.4 has the same characteristics as FA1.4 (preferably from own experience)?</p>

<p>It turned out to be a faulty rechargeable batteries issue (2 separate sets of Energizer and Duracell - both freshly charged). When I put in my trusty Eneloops the problem dissapeared.<br>

A few things I have learned in the process (other than using ONLY good quality batteries):<br>

1. It will allow you to chose A or M only after the meter in the camera has timed out. <br />2. Set overexposure to +2 in camera before shooting with P-TTL<br />3. Use AUTO mode for more predictable results<br />4. Use Manual mode for even more predictable and consisten results<br>

Thanks to everybody for their input.</p>

<p>Andrew - Excellent idea with a four-position hardware switch!<br>

Gary - great (and correct) theory.</p>

<p>"dslr is supplying the flash with a known set of parameters: the shutter speed and fstop. the flash then takes this info uses the light meter in the dslr to determine the correct exposure and takes the picture with the flash supplying the light needed" - so I set 1/40sec, F11, ISO 200, 12ft distance, centerweight exposure, average (not all white) target and.... the image is almost black! If I (manage to) do the same with AUTO, the image is perfect - that's why I do not like to use p-ttl mode.</p>

<p>As I mentioned, I've been shooting with this flash and K10D with excellent results in P-TTL.</p>

<p>I believe that either my K20D is broken or my flash went rogue. I was hoping to hear suggestions as of which one is it. </p>

<p>Gary - WOW! Great 2 thoughts!<br>

Thanks for all responses.<br>

It seems that the consensus is to forget about P-TTL and work manually (not even TTL since it is not supported).<br>

I would gladly follow this advice if only I was able to switch the flash (reliably) to AUTO or Manual mode. As it is I can only switch to AUTO or M when the camera is OFF, then turn the camera ON and hope it will not throw my flash back to dreaded P-TTL (this is opposite to Gary's suggested sequence).<br>

Sad.</p>

 

<p >My AF540FGZ with K20D acts funny. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >I used to use it quite successfully in P-TTL mode on my former camera (K10D).</p>

<p >With K20D (v.1.3) it underexposes badly.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Here is what happens:</p>

<p >In dimly lit room, shooting at furniture, people, floor, anything really at the distance of 10ft – in P-TTL, Av at F8, ISO Auto 200-800, most camera settings default – shots are consistently underexposed by several points. Underexposure is worse with the lens closed down (F11) and so-so, but still present with the lens opened up to F4. Same story for various lenses.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >The same settings on camera with the flash set to A or M produce beautiful images. Flash is more than capable to lit subject at this distance.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >But here is a twist: the MODE switch on the flash most of the times toggles between P-TLL and SB mode only! (so A and M modes are not available). I said most of the times because occasionally it will go to A and M – for example when the K20D is turned OFF. But then again sometimes I’ll set it to A, half-press the shutter and it throws me back to P-TTL.</p>

<p >I’ve cleaned the contacts on the flash and on the camera a few times with alcohol – no change.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Any suggestions before I send it to Pentax for service? I’d hate to loose a camera for a summer!</p>

<p>It may sound radical, but have you considered cutting a (short) F5P cable and soldering in a piece of wire of desired length (color, waterproofness, coiled etc.)? <br>

I've found myself doing a similar job when the battery charger that came with K10D from Hongkong turned out to have a plug that doesn't fit north american receptable.</p>

When I got an urge for a long tele, I got myself a 200mm F4 Super-Multi-Coated Takumar with PK adapter and a good 7-element 2x teleconverter. I kept them together as one 400mm tele lens at all times. I shot wide open or one stop down with excellent results. Super cheap and very decent quality pictures.

On the cheap:

SMC Takumar 200mm with 2x TC<div></div>

Definitely close down for more DOF. In the last picture cabinet is out of focus and the patio barrier is in focus.

Best pictures to me are #2 and #4 because they do not include windows and the view behind it. The view from the window always draws a lot of viewers attention - that's not what you want. I would try to avoid the windows in the pictures or edit out the view alltogether (leave it sky-bluish?).

For the counter: #5 is better than #8 or #1 as it eliminates imperfections in stainless steel oven surface which - again - draws unwanted attention.

Mixing natural lighting with electric is really hard, and seldom produces good results. You could try shooting when the sun is lower.

If you don't have professional umbrella lighting, get plenty of small light sources. Even office desk lamps pointed backwards at white cardboards will do.

Good luck!

I have Pentax SMCP-FA 100-300mm f/4.7-5.8 and am very happy with it despite rather poor reviews on the net. It's very light and IQ is not bad. Here is a wildlife picture sample at long end (300mm)and wide open. It only gets better from there.<div></div>

Hi,

I need some pointers as of how to adjust the LCD display.

 

I recently bought myself an Acer X241W 24" LCD Monitor together with a new Dell

computer. In the past I used Daytek CRT 19" and HP 19" LCD without any issues.

 

Acer is very nice and pictures look great in Photoshop. The problem is the

prints. First few batches I ordered (at Costco) came with really dull colors.

 

When I went back and checked histograms, all pictures had mojor empty margin on

the bright end of histogram. On screen they looked just perfect!(I guess this

fooled me into not checking histogram).

 

When I cut the empty margin away in the last batch of prints - they came

somewhat better. On the screen they looked washed away and way to bright.

 

When I lower the LCD brightness using monitor controls it doesn't look right.

All Windows becomes dull. And adjusted pictures still were somewhat washed away.

 

 

Now I saw many articles an tons of science on the net, but at this moment in my

life I can't afford studying all that full time.

 

Can you give me a few simple (and not very expensive) ways to calibrate LCD to

match prints closer. With the old monitors adjustment of pictures was easy - if

it looked good on the screen, then the print were OK. Now I can not trust my

eyes and have to resort to AUTO brightness setting in Photoshop - it's not

right.

 

Please help!

Andrew,

 

If you have any old MF, K mount lens (Pentax K, A or M, or Tamron Adaptall) put it on your K100D, switch camera to AF mode, and point camera to out-of-focus object.

Press the shutter fully and hold. The camera will not fire. Now turn the focusing ring slowly, even slower as you approach point of being in focus. The camera will fire when you hear the familiar beep and focus indicator shows up.

 

This trick is not documented (I think) in the manual. The trade-off is that if you do it too quickly (meaning faster than VERY slow), you turn the ring past your DOF by the time the image is recorded.

 

Still, I love it.

If I could only use my Takumar like this...

I've heard of M42 adapters "with a flange". I would imagine that such a flange could short out contacts. It would likely also eliminate infinity focus.

 

Could somebody with such a "flange" adapter run a test? (not sure if flange covers contacts).

 

And if the infinity focus is gone - how bad is it? (how far can it focus ? )

I loved using my old Tamron 105/f2.5 MF lens with semi-AF feature from K100D -

when you turn slowly the focusing ring in AF mode until the camera locks focus

and fires.

 

So I decided to get a SMC Takumar 100/f2.8 as a replacement, as I've heard they

are optically somewhat better (and sooo cheap these days).

 

With an m42 adapter that looks very similar to the original Asahi (no flange),

I went onto shooting. How dissapointed I was to find that my newly beloved semi-

AF feature is not working. The focus indicator works OK, but camera does not

shoot automatically.

 

I figure some contacts on the camera mount are not covered by the lens mount ???

 

Is there an adapter that works in that respect?

Best lens value for K100D:

 

1. kit lens for all around,

 

2. F or FA 50mm/1.7 for low light - fast enough and easier on your bank account than F1.4,

 

3. and when you feel like shooting long - Pentax SMCP-FA 100-300mm f/4.7-5.8. The last one you can get below $100 and with SR I've got excellent pictures of my kids taken from 100ft away handheld! Just make sure you get the f/4.7-5.8 version.

 

And yes - there is a gap (between 55mm and 100mm) , but somehow I don't feel it.

 

All these lenses are very light so you can carry them all at all times.<div></div>

Question as in the subject.

Is there specific hood for Pentax-M?

There seem to be abundance of Takumar hoods on the market.

Thanks

Question to Andrew:

 

How do you find the combination of 1.7x teleconverter with 50mm 1:1.4 lens?

 

I expect to get my 1.7x TC soon. Having 50/1.4(M) and 50/1.7(A) and 28-105/3.2-4.5 zoom, I consider dropping my 100mm/3.5

 

I am more interested in good bokeh and contrast/colour aspects than in absolute sharpness.

 

Thanks

I've got Canon 420EZ. It has all I need.

Thanks for all your advise.

I didn't realize that EOS 3000 does have it's own IR beam support.

I think then that I drop this function requirement from the flash.

I've checked prices of 420EX - $150+ . I think I'd prefer something off-brand below $100 (if possible).

Thanks for all responses.

Any specific Sigma or Vivitar models?