john_chee
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Posts posted by john_chee
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<p>Thanks, Vic. Leica just wanted those M8's to go away sooner than later to put the dark side of the Leica history to bed. Bo's coder comes in handy for a good price, even for M9 owners, I have read in a few times that some forgot to switch between auto and manual lens detection.</p>
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<p>Hi Brian,<br>
I traveled several times to China in the last few years. As many has mentioned, you might be surprised by how many D3, D700, D300's that people carry around in Shanghai and Hong Kong. My only concern is the size. For business trip like yours, I carry a E-P1 with two Leica lenses these days.<br>
As for Wuxi and Guangzhou/Guangxi (not sure which one that you referred to as Ghuangxo), those are where you might need to pay extra attention on all of your stuff, in addition to your camera gears. What I mean is there are more spots in these cities that are not as "tourist friendly." Use common sense to back out as soon as you find yourself in one of those spots.<br>
To demonstrated the point ... I was in Prague, Czech Republic last month with my small camera bag with me all the time. As soon as I jumped on a not so packed subway train, I found myself being "surrounded" by a group of 6 people (they did not look like locals). They created an unnecessarily crowded environment just around me. The rest of the compartment was not crowded at all. I was even separated from my wife by this group of people. After 10 seconds, my instinct told me to get out of that situation immediately by saying "excuse me" very loudly in order to move on. That group of 6 said something back in a language that I did not understand. Then, they got off the train in the next stop. Later, a local friend of mine told me that this is how local pick pockets are done, they pass on their "capture" from one to another quickly. Even if you feel one of them take thing from you, it may probably be too lately to catch them red handed.<br>
Anyway, wish you enjoy China and your D300 there.<br>
John</p>
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<p>Leo, </p>
<p>For me, two reasons that I like Nikon as a tool: the "see (lenses) and feel (ergonomic design and interface)." F100 is probably the cheapest way to get them. Both of these characteristics and the build quality are the signature of Nikon in the prosumer to professional cameras. There are many customizable features of the F100. Some may find them helpful but I only customized one or two when I had one. If you are planning to trade in your film camera when you get your D? or D?00 later, I strongly recommend you to consider a used F6. The value of a F6 may not drop that much if you exercise reasonable care of the body. The F6 experience will last a very long time. I decided to keep my F6 when I got my D3.</p>
<p>John</p>
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<p>I like reading photographers' reviews that are similar to Kuryan's more than a technical ones for some reason. More personable, maybe. I use my D3x in studio and the result is just as good as Kuryan's on landscapes. With 24MP, I have more flexibility on cropping for larger prints. Just like Kuryan, I went down this D3x route rather than keep saving for a MF back. For what I do now with mostly my Nikkor 85mm f/1.4 and 18x22 prints, D3x works just fine. I am very comfortable to go bigger too. </p>
<p>After a little more than a thousand shots that I have, there is only one limitation: the noise in the shadow using harsh strobe light through honeycomb -- dark space between the subject and backdrop with almost no light there. I checked back to similar composition that I had using D3 with the same ISO 100, the problem was not there. It is an easy fix with Noise Ninja especially my output for the current project is in B&W. Other than this and the missing dust reduction mechanism as in D700, I am totally happy with the D3x so far. </p>
<p>A note to Kuryan, the 70-200mm f/2.8 is not that big of a deal anymore with in camera Vignette Control, even at wide open in my opinion (simple task in LR anyway on post processing). I would have felt missing out if I don't have the 70-200mm in my bag when I take the D3x outside of my studio.</p>
<p>The D3x is for sure a keeper, at least 5 years in my case. I just can't wait to try out with some serious macro work with a Kiron 105mm f/2.8.</p>
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<p>Strong feedback, indeed! Some people feel the need to do certain things in a certain way. It's really up to them for what they do on their camera. Someone like to talk to strangers and some don't enjoy it. Everyone is entitled to their opinion here as a forum. But, using words like "useless", "obsessive", "try to be special", etc. by some of the "non-taping" crowd put the "taping crowd" on a defensive side. I was surprised to see that the "taping crowd" has kept the sharing and educational mindset when they wrote and did not use words like "showy", "chatty", "like to draw attention", etc. back.</p>
<p>If you understand the marketing concept of a Japanese company, MUJI <a href="http://www.muji.com/message/">http://www.muji.com/message/</a> that has been very popular in Japan for many years with growing popularity in the US as well, you probably will appreciate the fact that there is a group of the people out there that don't like brand showing on high quality items that they purchased. It's more than just try to camouflage or avoiding the thieves. I am not sure if this is called individualism or trying to blend in. In fact, it can be BOTH. </p>
<p>I have seen people in some other countries leave the sticker on the lens of their sunglasses. It is also customary on some culture to leave the brand label on the sleeves of their blazer. Just wonder what the "non-taping" crowd would have to say about these. The OP asked "Why do you (tape)?" He did not asked "Why not?"</p>
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<p>There is itch and there is passion. M users are definitely passionate about their "tool." For a simple "to be or not to be question," 90 responses and counting. </p>
<p>Unlike Eric, I started off with Leica M and went the other way around. I have learned a lot from its simple controls. While keeping my M's, I went on to Hasselblad and then LF's in searching for higher resolution and quality result. Then, there came D3 with some fine glasses. Many friends even told me my pictures from the mighty DSLR are better without knowing which camera I used to take them or much about photography. But, I find myself missing my M's while shooting with anything else.</p>
<p>It is not about digital versus film and I don't mind spending time with LR2 and CS4 but prefer darkroom. It is not the brand as I have been taping up the "red dot" since the first day I get my M7. It is not about just rangefinder neither ... I have that craving for Leica M feeling while using a Zeiss Ikon with 50mm f/1.5, recently. It's the sound of the shutter. It's the solid feel of great engineering. It's the simplicity and accuracy. It's the great balance of image quality and potability. Eric articulated nicely of some of the feeling but there are more to it. It's a sentimental feeling like an old and reliable friend to me. My other "friends" are there for special purposes, but my old friend is always there with me. It has been a full circle but I feel like home with a Leica M between my subject and me.</p>
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<p>Thanks for a comprehensive comparison on this topic. I like the way that you wrote as a photographer not engineer and avoided too much technical details. At the end of the day, what matters is the quality of the output vs purposes. The noise issue is exactly what I need to know. Thanks _John</p>
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Terry -
- Your Polariod 4x5 film back would work with both either Fuji and Kodak loaded films, while Kodak's will run out soon as indicated. Just need to know how to use the unmarked button on the Polariod film back. I found Fujifilm Neopan 100 Acros black and white needs shorter reciprocity compensation, which is an advantage on certain situations.
- When I first used ReadyLoad films, I experienced light leaks. After a couple of times of such problem, I realized that it wasn't from leaking, it was from the sparks in the dark room when I pull the films out of the stickers that hold the films in the holder. Once again, working with LF taught me to slow things down.
- I started off using a lot of loaded films for everything then changed to use them for traveling only. It does not take too much to learn a dustless cut films, just need to get used to a work flow to keep dust away from the films in the darkroom (dry static based dust wipes helps); transporting them outside of the darkroom (zip lock bags individually); and clean it right before shooting. Developing them yourself is another part of the fun.
Hope the above help. Enjoy shooting _John
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I have the same issue while shooting at a snow mountain with a lot of white background and blue sky. It's disappointing as premium price was paid for the 70-200 VR f/2.8. If we have to avoid f/2.8 and f/4, Nikon should relabel this lens as a DX lens. The Lens Correction function in Photoshop does not completely solve the problem sometime. If Leica M8 can handle the vignette in RFs, why couldn't Nikon D3 do the same. I am hoping Nikon can come up with a firmware that will have the problem fixed.
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I always shoot in the City with a permit (free) and was asked just once.
http://www.nyc.gov/html/film/html/permits/still_photography.shtml
Shooting in New York City parks is a different permit, but also free:
http://www.nyc.gov/html/film/html/permits/parks_still_photography.shtml
Additionally, events with more than 20 people in any New York City parks require an event permit. $25 non-refundable application fee required:
http://www.nycgovparks.org/sub_permits_and_applications/planning_an_event.html
In return, you can ask for free police assistance while you are shooting or during the event :-)
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Ok, I am here at Amsterdam this week with all the World Cup football fans. World Press Photo 06 at the Old Church (Oude Kerk), Foam, Rembrandt Museum and van Gogh Museum are must go too. Paul's pro shop suggestions are also great. The only thing is they don't carry Quickload or Readyload type of films on either store when I went. I wound up purchasing a few new holders here. For B&W shooters, both store only carry 50 sheet packs ... I shot Fujicolor Pro 160 S (in 10 sheet pack) instead as I don't plan to shoot that much in a week and I have to use local lab to process anyway. Visited a few spots outside of Amsterdam, highly recommended Durgerdam. Marken is very nice too. Anyway, thanks Paul!
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Thanks for the helpful infomation. Backpacking with the bike would be fun. Will share some pictures when I return. Foam looks like the place to be.
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I will be traveling to Amsterdam, the Netherlands, in June. Just wonder if you can offer me
any advise on:
1) Good spots around Amsterdam for landscape shooting;
2) Shops that carry 4x5 4x5 films/Readyload/Quickload/Polaroid; and
3) Photo labs that will develop 4x5 films B&W
Thanks!
John
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There are some discussion out there saying that the future of Medium
Format is not looking good and some manufacturers are exiting the
market. I like my 500c/w with 50mm, 80mm and 150mm for personal use
on landscape and nature type macro photography. I am still on films
and planning to use digital back as well when I get the money. Any
thoughts on the future of Medium Format? I am wondering if I should
keep on loading up my MF equipment or I should focus more on Large
Format instead. Thanks!
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Just check out the custom foam from http://www.foamonline.com. They're not cheap? Pelican roller cases is a bargain relatively, easily customizable and very sturdy for city use. Backpack is still the way to go for off road/hiking.
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Kata has some good designs. The backpack model BP-502 has a sliding sleeve that will work with most of the rollers. So, you get the best of both worlds.
Some other good suggestions from this thread too:
http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00FVsM&tag=
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For head shoot and head + shoulder shoots, wouldn't 150mm and 210mm from 10-15 feet too short of a lens for Eduardo's need? Although these two make great complement to a 90mm as a starter. Nikon makes great telephoto lenses (T series) at reasonable prices but they discontinued its LF lines earlier, i.e.; only on used market or old stock at retail stores. If I am not mistaken, Shenhao offers extension up till 370mm with movement, you've got plenty of choices, either a long lens or telephoto lens. I am not sure Rodenstock makes real telephoto design lenses, although it's 240mm and 300mm APO-Sironar-S are great, APO-Sironar-N lenses are in the used market. Schneider Tele-Arton 250mm f/5.6 telephoto lens is a classic for portraiture but not easy to find these days.
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In an old thread of apug.org, I found this link, in case you are interested in how it works.
http://www.f32.net/Services/Equipment/Accessories/quickchange.html
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John - I am just getting into LF. I am in the City and would like to have a learning partner with similar skill level too. _John
Is Leica Dead
in Leica and Rangefinders
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