peter_lawrence

<p>NASA released today the first high resolution photos from its Solar Dynamics Observatory that was launched into orbit on February 11, 2010.<br>

<a href="http://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/sdo/news/first-light.html">http://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/sdo/news/first-light.html</a><br>

<a href="http://sdo.gsfc.nasa.gov/">http://sdo.gsfc.nasa.gov/</a></p>

<p>Melissa, the best advice I can give you is this: don't use center-weighted metering. One should think of it as a very crude and primitive way to meter a scene that I think Nikon still makes available on their digital SLRs only to appease "old-foggies" who grew up with center-weighted metering being the ONLY option.</p>

<p>You will get far better and more reliable exposure results if you stick to the more advanced and state-of-the-art matrix metering -- or -- if you take the time to learn how to use the D700 spot meter properly.</p>

<p>Used correctly, both Nikon's advanced matrix metering and its highly selective spot meter will enable you to properly expose a shot. And also learn how to use the D700's exposure compensation function, because a meter reading from the camera is just its best "guess" of what the proper exposure should be. It's up to you, the photographer, to determine if the camera's initial guess was on the mark or not.</p>

<p>And one more advantage of a D300 or D300s over a D700 is that the D300(s) have a 100% viewfinder like a D3(s). The D700 does not. Once you use a DSLR with a 100% viewfinder, you won't want to use one with anything less.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I just noticed I made a couple of major typos in my initial post. Oops...<br>

The web site's name is: <a href="http://dpBestflow.org">dpBestflow.org</a> (not dbBestflow.org). At least the link was correct. :)</p>

<p><a href="http://dpbestflow.org/">dbBestflow.org</a> a website dedicated to digital photography best practices and workflow was launched on November 11 by the American Society of Media Photographers (ASMP), as an initiative funded by the United States Library of Congress. The purpose of the website is to be a comprehensive resource for the education of professional photographers on how to preserve and protect their work.<br>

<a href="http://dpbestflow.org/">http://dpbestflow.org/</a></p>

<p>I have a D300 and a D200, so I probably won't be buying a D300s. But if I did, I would probably use the CF slot for storing my still photos and the SD slot (with a Class 6 SDHC card) to capture any HD video I took with the camera.</p>

<p>I have personally found it to be a bit of a pain, housekeeping/workflow wise, downloading and cataloging still images and video clips I've shot with some of my P&S digital cameras that do HD video. One reason is because Lightroom doesn't yet handle (or import) video files from digital cameras. So it would be great to sidestep this issue by storing any video clips I would take with a D300s on a separate card from my still photos. That way it would be more straight-forward managing the two separate types of files. I would import my still photos from the compact flash card into Lightroom, and manage my video clips with a dedicated video application like iMovie or Final Cut Express.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Any high-end DSLR will give you a great image, but for serious landscape work it's important to have "clean" edges when composing your shot. Having a 100% viewfinder helps greatly in ensuring no unwanted elements intrude into your photo. Therefore, I would pass on the Nikon D700 and would rather pay more for a Nikon D3 or save money and get a Nikon D300. Both of those come with a 100% viewfinder while the D700 does not.</p>

<p>I will also heartily recommend Photo Mechanic as the best photo browser available for the Mac. I use it to do the initial import of my photo images into my Mac. It's superior in that regard to both Aperture and Lightroom because it gives you a lot of flexibility on how to rename you images on your hard drive, in addition to its speed and ease for adding keywords and IPTC metadata to your images.</p>

<p>Also by using Photo Mechanic first, one can delete rejects quickly and only import into Lightroom (or Aperture) the images that made the initial cut. Thus saving more time and disk drive space.</p>

<p>I use Photo Mechanic in conjunction with Lightroom. They work well together.</p>

<p>Like Eric Vaughan, I find LiveView invaluable for landscape photography. Used in Tripod Mode (on a tripod obviously), LiveView is the best way to critically check the depth-of-field of a shot, plus it's the best way to get the most accurate focus. For these same reasons, LiveView is great for macro work too. Again, this is using LiveView in Tripod Mode with the camera mounted on a tripod.</p>

<p>But I don't use LiveView when handholding my Nikon D300. I prefer just to use its viewfinder then.</p>

<p>LiveView does drain the camera's battery at a relatively fast rate. Fortunately, that's not a problem for me because I carry three spare batteries in my camera bag for my D300.</p>

The NASA Messenger spacecraft has flown by planet Mercury as part of its mission to orbit the closest planet to the Sun. The photos

taken on this flyby is of regions of Mercury that have never been photographed before.<br>

<br>

Here's a link to the photographs from Messenger:<br>

<a

href="http://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/messenger/multimedia/index.html">http://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/messenger/multimedia/

index.html</a><br>

Edward, the inclusion of the red and orange pigment inks is to increase the R1900 color gamut which the two inks do.

The R1900 has the widest color gamut of any Epson printer. And the inclusion of the Gloss Optimizer is to eliminate

"bronzing" from glossy prints which it effectively does. You ought not to be so cynical about these enhancements.

And regards to PopPhoto, the reason they "gush" over every review is simply because they, as an editorial policy, won't

publish reviews of photo equipment that reviewed badly. Their "public" reasoning is that they don't want to waste limited

magazine space on products they can't recommend. (Of course, the real reason is probably they don't want to upset

their advertisers by publishing bad reviews of their products.) But the PopPhoto Labs cameras, lenses, and printers test

results that they do publish are accurate and reliable. That has been my experience for the past 20 years of reading the

magazine and their test results have usually always matched those from other reputable sources too.

<i>"There are two basic technologies for photo inkjet printers - dye based ink and pigment based ink. The 1900 and its

brethren use dye based inks, which produce better glossy prints but are not nearly as resistant to fading as pigment

based inks (20-30 year print life). The 1900 also has extra non-CMYK colors to enhance the saturation of prints and a

clear coat to improve glossy results. While many people like the results, the colors are over the top in my opinion." -- Edward

Ingold</i><br>

<br>

Edward, just because you don't like the Epson R1900, there's no reason to spread false information about it. First, the

R1900 uses pigment based ink, specifically the Epson UltraChrome Hi-Gloss 2 pigment inks. Second, color prints made

from it are rated by Wilhelm-Research to have a life span of at least 52 to 80 years depending on the type of ink-jet

paper that is used. This is actually a slightly better rating than the color prints made from an Epson 3800. Third, the

R1900 color accuracy is outstanding. It had a color accuracy test rating of 4.35 Delta E when PopPhoto Labs tested it.

As of May 2008, the R1900 was the most color accurate ink-jet printer that PopPhoto had ever tested. So if you think

its colors are over the top, it was probably the result of user error (or preference for over the top color saturation).<br>

<br>

The Epson R1900 is an outstanding printer, especially if one prefers glossy prints. But for someone who

prints a lot of black & white photos or prefers non-glossy prints, then I think there are better choices, including the Epson

R2880 or 3800.<br>

<i>"As far as color, I hate when the colors are muted and hazey. Need help as far as color. Any suggestions?"<br>

</i><br>

A couple of suggestions. Use your polarizer to cut down on haze and help saturate your colors (but remember that a polarizer won't work

that well on a ultra-wide-angle lens).<br>

<br>

And for color photography the best way to avoid muted colors is to avoid shooting in harsh light. In other words, avoid

shooting in the middle of the day with clear blue skies. Do your color photography early in the morning (from first light to

about two hours after sunrise) and late in the afternoon/evening (from about two hours before sunset to last light) or

anytime the sky is overcast or mostly cloudy. Save the middle of a clear day just for your black & white

photography.<br>

<br>

I just did a Google search that gave me a slew of photo mug wholesalers. The words I used for the search: photo mugs wholesale<br>

<br>

Or better yet, go search over at <b>cuil.com</b>. It will yield better results, IMHO.<br>

<a href="http://www.cuil.com/search?q=photo+mugs+wholesale">http://www.cuil.com/search?

q=photo+mugs+wholesale</a><br>

Just an FYI...

Looks like the 'Off-Topic' forum was NOT probably positioned on the Forums pull-down menu.

It's sandwiched between the 'Nature' and 'News' forums.

Shouldn't it be positioned between the 'No Words' and the 'Olympus and Four-Thirds' forums on the pull-down menu?

A nit-pick I know, but still it's an obvious error that might make this sight look amateurish to new visitors.

Regardless if you use a VR (vibration reduction) lens, you still should own and use a tripod whenever it's possible. A

camera mounted on a sturdy tripod will always take sharper photos than a camera that's handheld, even one that has a

VR lens attached.

Also a tripod is useful for other things than keeping your camera steady. It's helpful for composing a shot and then fine-

tuning your camera settings while keeping the composition of your shot exactly the same. It's also helpful (along with a

bubble level) for keeping your horizons level when shooting landscapes.

A tripod is a necessary accessory for many types of photography.

And last but not least (I inadvertently left this off my original post):

8. A translucent *AND* a white/soft gold Photoflex Litedisc 32" collapsible reflectors

I would recommend the following accessories for your D300:

1. A carbon-fiber tripod with a quality ball-head that has an Arca-Swiss style clamp *PLUS* an Arca-Swiss compatible L-

Plate for your D300. The carbon-fiber tripod legs don't have to be a Gitzo, but can also be a high-quality Slik, Velbon, or

Manfrotto carbon-fiber legs. For the ball-head and L-bracket, both Really Right Stuff and Kirk Enterprises manufacture

excellent ones.

2. An MC-30 or MC-36 Remote Trigger Release Cord

3. Extra batteries and flash cards

4. A SC-29 Off-Camera AF TTL Cord for your Nikon Speedlight flash.

5. A bubble level if you're going to shoot landscapes.

6. A macro lens if your going to shoot close-up of flowers or insects.

7. A circular polarizing filter

Here's the official Nikon data sheet for the lens including an MTF chart:<br>

<br>

<a href="http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/af/normal/af-

s_50mmf_14g/index.htm">http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/af/normal/af-

s_50mmf_14g/index.htm</a><br>

Jacob,

If you really want to shoot your sister's wedding, go ahead. I think you know what you're getting into with all the pitfalls

that it might entail.

But if you don't want to, then don't to it under ANY circumstances.

If you don't want to shoot her wedding just be honest and firm. Tell her that you don't have the necessary equipment to

properly shoot the wedding nor that you have the experience to pull it off successfully. Tell her that she deserves a real

pro.

But as a compromise, to help save your family some money, you might want to offer to shoot some wedding portraits of

your sister and the bridegroom before or after the actual wedding day. That way you could take nice photos of the

couple that they could keep or make inexpensive copies to give to their friends and family, but you wouldn't have to deal

with all the pressure of trying to capture their wedding day on film.

The RRS BH-55 is an excellent ballhead, but I think it would make your Velbon El Carmagne 530 tripod too top heavy. If

you want a RRS BH-55 because you're thinking of buying larger lenses in the future (your current Canon lenses should

work fine with the BH-40) then you should also purchase a larger tripod for it. The 530's big brother, Velbon El Carmagne

630 would work well with the BH-55 ballhead. Of course there are a number of excellent Gitzo carbon fiber tripods that would

work well with the BH-55 ballhead too.

RRS makes excellent Arca-Swiss style quick-release plates and clamps. I use their L-Plates on my D-SLRs (Nikon

D200 and D300). If you're going to get a ballhead, then I'll strongly recommend that you pay more for an L-Plate for your

Canon SLR. It's a whole lot easier and faster to switch from a horizontal to a vertical shot when using an L-plate versus

a normal quick-release plate with a ballhead.

One of my tripods is a Velbon El Carmagne 530. It's an excellent carbon fiber tripod for light loads. The vibration you

notice is normal, but if you want to minimize it, I would suggest that you just replace the three-way pan & tilt head that's

attached to your tripod with with a lighter but sturdier ball-head that can support the weight of your camera and lenses.

It's easier and faster to clamp down a ball-head so your camera is rock steady. You'll still see some vibration if you tap

the front of your lens, but it will be kept to a minimum.

The ballheads I would recommend for your tripod would be either the Really Right Stuff BH-40 or the Acratech Ultimate

Ballhead (or the Acratech GV2 Ballhead).

One word of caution on the Velbon El Carmagne 530 tripod. Because it's a bit on the small side and very lightweight, be

very careful using it in high-wind situations. A very strong gust of wind can knock it over when you have a long lens (like

your EF 70-200mm f/4) attached to it. (I know this from first-hand experience. Still I consider it an excellent

lightweight tripod. It's great for hiking.)

Folks,

Unless David Myles has omitted some key facts, this is a simple case of EXTORTION! According to David, he was

only obligated to furnish to his clients high resolution jpegs which he said that he did. Therefore he had lived up to his

end of the contract. Now the couple needs to live up to theirs and PAY HIM IN FULL.

David, don't let that couple walk over you. Remind them politely that the contract specified ONLY high resolution JPEG

files and that you expect them to fulfill their end of the contract by giving you the final payment.

Now, if you don't have a problem with sending them your RAW files after receiving the final payment for the wedding, you

can inform them that AFTER you received the last payment for the wedding that you would be willing to send them the

RAW files for a nominal charge. But first, they must fulfill the terms of the original contract.

A deal is a deal and if the couple cannot be trusted to fulfill the terms of the first one, don't expect them to fulfill the terms of

any subsequent contracts.

If they still refuse to pay, do what's necessary to collect the debt that they owe you.

The advantage of high-speed cards for most photographers will probably not be the high-speed writes that they can do, but

instead the very high-speed reads that they can do. Simply put, high-speed cards combined with a high-speed card reader

can cut in half the amount of time you spend waiting while you download your photographs from your card to your

computer. This can be a significant amount of time if you are using 4GB and 8GB cards and you're filling them completely

up during your shoots.

What type of corporate art do you offer? Is it unique high-end fine art or more generic art that one sees in hotel rooms and

such.

If it's more of the generic kind, I would say just skip finding individual photographers and just go to a stock or microstock

photo agency and just select some royalty-free images that you would be happy to print and sell. That would be a whole lot

cheaper and more profitable to you than having to deal with individual photographers.