paul_purcell

Yeah, Wayne, I hope it didn't come across that anybody could just get that particular shot, but instead that each person doesn't know their limits until they test for themselves. Like Daniel, I grew up shooting rifles, as well as cameras, and I think it does help somewhat, as your accuracy and "hand-holdability" in the rifle/target situation give immediate feedback, and you can see quickly the results of any improvement you make.

 

Doesn't mean that you need rifle experience to be a good camera shot, just that having more experience of all types helps. Practice, learning good techniques, and pushing your limits on occasion will get you far.

 

Actually, I use a good tripod religiously, but it's nice to know that if I didn't have it, and had to Get The Shot, that I'd stand a chance of getting it all by myself.

 

Learn your own personal limits, and learn all that the camera can do (cold winter evenings are a good time to review the camera's instruction manual--there's always something to be picked up that you missed before). Even a world-class concert pianist still practices the scales. You need a good grounding in the basics, not for the basics themselves, but for the heights of competency they allow you to reach.<div></div>

Thanks.

 

You really don't know where your limits are until you find them for yourself--what others have done is just a good rule of thumb to start with.

 

The JPG artifacts that cropped up when posting the image removed some of the difference between the two shots, so let's try that again--IS really does make a difference.<div></div>

IS is *supposed* to be good for 2 stops more than what you can do without it. But that then begs the question of how slow you can go yourself, which depends on your hand-holding technique. (Learn breathing control, use bone-to-bone support instead of just using muscles to support yourself, etc.)

 

Your best bet is to make up descriptive tags, as I did, and test slow shutter speeds with and without IS, and see how slow you can go. You need to know how slow YOU can handle it. It will be an education, and may very well be a surprise to you, as it was to me...<div></div>

Even a single character is enough to be a caption, and the Space is a character as well. (You can just hit the space bar once in the caption and have work just as well. Just more FYI.)

Here�s some discussion at <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0011nS">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0011nS</a> and Julian Loke has something that�s close at <a href="http://eosdoc.com/manuals.asp?q=E7TrapFocus">http://eosdoc.com/manuals.asp?q=E7TrapFocus</a>

try: <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0041R7&unified_p=1">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0041R7&unified_p=1</a>

Canon flash trigger voltage is around 6V. Older flashes, manual flashes, and non-Canon flashes may be more--lots more. Since current EOS cameras have much in the way of electronic circuitry in them, voltage that is too high can damage your camera's electronics.

 

Check the voltage of your charged flash across the contacts with a voltmeter to be sure.

And to see what it looks like: <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0041R7&unified_p=1">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0041R7&unified_p=1</a>

In with one, out with another....<div></div>

Moiz, yes you could just pop up the built-in flash on the EOS 5 and dial in -1 flash comp--just be sure that your manually-set shutter speed is 1/200 or less, as that's the flash synch speed.

 

Also, you may want to experiment--try -1/2, and -1 1/2 as well, as flash comp varies by the situation (light level, light angle, etc) so try several flash comp settings for your shots. And if you're using a big lens, be aware that the built-in flash can get blocked in the bottom middle of your shot. If you don't HAVE to have the lens hood on, you may want to remove it for the flash shots.<div></div>

When you Save (or Save As) a JPG, there is a JPG Quality Scale somewhere on that save screen. Change the JPG quality number to a lesser quality number (which may be up or down the scale; depends on the particular program--it should tell you right there at the scale which way is which) to make a JPG compress more. Up to a certain point, there is little visible difference for having a smaller file size, but experiment to see what works for you because image definition and quality can suffer if you go too far.

Try <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004E4b">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004E4b</a> or <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004Eu9">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004Eu9</a> or <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004DnH">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004DnH</a> or for general info on the Ti, try <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0049jT">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0049jT</a>

I've heard about doing this with something really blue, to make sepia-toned images, so I guess this is using it to a lesser degree for just a bit of warming.

 

Use an blue color correction filter or gel over your white balance indicator to achieve this. Thing about using CC's is that they have separate and discreet steps, just like the warmcards, so you could get easily reproducible results over a range of situations.

<div></div>

Seek and ye shall find: <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0043Ht">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0043Ht</a>

>>shooting aperture priority (so the exposure is for the ambient light and the flash is just additional) and cranking the flash exp. compensation down<<

<br> <br>

is just what I do, the only difference is that I try -1.5 and -1 as well, to see which works best, as each situation is different, depending on the angle and amount of natural light coming into the scene.

<br> <br>

There was a thread here on diffusing the on-camera flash of an elan, but can�t find that now, even through Google, but here�s the web site listed in that thread, about making just the sort of diffuser you requested:

<a href="http://www.talisweb.com/jeannie/photo/tinker/">http://www.talisweb.com/jeannie/photo/tinker/</a><div></div>

The comp dial is also a good way to use fill flash.

 

With the flash removed and the comp dial at 0, adjust your aperture until the shutter speed reads 1/80 (1/125 if you want the background to be a bit brighter).

 

Adjust the comp dial to -1 or -1 and 1/3, install and turn on the flash. Having the flash turned on puts the shutter speed to 1/80, so your exposure is correct, and the comp dial only applies to the flash. That's my main use for the comp dial.

Are you aiming the projector up at the wall? This can cause more jams than having the light beam go more horizontally at the wall.

 

Are you using 140 carousels, or 80s? In my experience the 140s are a little pickier. Are you using cardboard or plastic mounts? Dog-eared corners on cardboard mounts can cause problems.

 

If nothing else, make sure the path down into the projector is clean and straight. Try letting a slide drop into the projector after you press the advance, without using the tray at all. Just hold the slide over the slot, and see if it will go into the projector as it should.

 

Just a few thoughts.

Also don't overlook the use of an ND Grad and a polarizer at the same time.

 

Above is 2 stop soft edge ND, with a polarizer rotated half-way between full effect and no effect.<div></div>

I'm assuming the on-camera flash will be TTL, and the slaved flash of course will not be. As for the actual distance, I look at it another way. Wherever you put the second flash, note on its aperture scale on the back, the aperture you would use for getting a correct exposure with *that* flash. Now use an aperture 2 or 3 stops underexposed from what that scale said.

 

Why? As I understand it, the TTL will try to read both flashes, and correct for the right exposure. Since it can adjust only the on-camera flash, you have to leave enough distance between the slaved flash output and the available light of the connected flash, to make a correct exposure.

 

Perhaps an example would be simpler to understand: At distance X and film speed Y, your slaved flash gives a proper exposure at an aperture of say f/5.6, so you would actually set your lens aperture to f/11 or f/16 (2 and 3 stops underexposed, respectively, if this is the only flash). This way the on-camera flash can put out the 2 or 3 stops needed to make the exposure correct. (The on-camera flash probably couldn't put out only one stop of light, which is why you'd make it put out 2 or 3 stops.)

 

As for actual placement of the slaved flash, I'd say a little high and just a bit to one side, for a little modeling. You don't want it very close in line with the lens axis, as this would cause red-eye, and you don't want it way to the side, as this would not only give weird shadows but would also light one side of the group more than the other.

Some scenes are the same minute after minute, but for some shots

timing is as important as composition or exposure. And let�s play by

the original rules for No Words: only one photo per person, so pick

your best!<div></div>

You mean something other than the Bulb instructions on P. 55?

 

(Turn the dial to M-Manual, and rotate the front wheel until the shutter speed reads bulb.)

<div></div>

Had the same problem myself between an F3 and a SB-16. Seems to be a weak link in the F3 itself. Don't know what to tell you.

"Perhaps to be a <i> photographer </i> is to see in new ways...."

(With a hat tip to "Friday's Child," first season.) <br> <br>

 

And for those that may not be sure about posting in-line, in your

graphics program, find the width of your image, in pixels. Maybe

under File/Properties, maybe a right-click on the image, etc. If the

width is greater than 511 pixels (height doesn't matter), then

Resample (preferably), or Resize to get this width, or a little less

if desired. Then Save As a variation of the original name (so you

still have the larger image), and post the smaller one. Just be sure

to fill in the caption. (Hint: even a single hit of the Space Bar is

considered text for a "caption!")<div></div>