lee_j

http://www.skateperception.com/

 

You'll find plenty of useful info in the forums. Don't take all of it too seriously however.

I've never had a problem with my SQ-Ai in three years of use, but have had no end of problems with my 2 'blad backs since I got it (them) 6 months ago. Saying that, I'm sold on the 'blad glass, tack sharp stills at 1/1000 f2 is the reason I'm holding onto the 'blad. That's not to say the Bronica glass isn't good, it is, it just doesn't allow the aforementioned settings. In terms of comparisons like you asked:

 

- The blad is heavier and feels more solid, although I'm using a 200 series body, which may be heavier than the 500 series; Especially when combined with an f2 lens.

 

- The backs are easy to load with both, I'd say the Bronica is easier as you don't have to faff about threading the film backing through the holder and (IME) the Bronica backs are more reliable for light tightness and frame spacing - although the Bronica backs will pop open fairly easy if the springs are worn.

 

- The 'blad focuses easier. I have a split screen for my SQ-Ai but would struggle without it, even with the magnifier. I have an acute matte for the 'blad and things pop clearly into focus.

<p>I remember a couple of fellow skate photogs mentioning that they're

after this lens, and it appears so rarely now that I thought I'd chuck

the link over here. Note that the seller has 0 feedback, so I wouldn't

even bother thinking about it unless you can pick it up in person.

Seems legit though. It's not cheap either, but that's what they're

going for now.</p>

 

<p><a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRONICA-FISHEYE-ZENZANON-PS-35mm-f3-

5-LENS_W0QQitemZ7589756212QQcategoryZ3350QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem">Go

Fish.</a></p>

Thanks Peter. I'd seen that thread but couldn't find it through a search (woods/trees). I was hoping someone would provide me with a link ;)

<p>Hi all,</p>

 

<p>I've spent the last 2 weeks (and 600 miles) shooting some stuff

only to discover today that my SQ-B has a focusing problem. The focus

is now way way <b>way</b> off, so I shot some (pretty unscientific)

tests today to reassure myself that it is indeed the camera body and

not any of the backs / lenses. You can see the tests plus an

explanation (the readme) on my web server: <a href="http://www.

btinternet.com/~lawrencium2/sq_b/">Tests</a></p>

 

<p>I'm guessing that's it's either the reflex mirror position or a

focusing screen alignment issue. I can't see/hear/feel a problem with

either, and don't recall any problems or abuse my camera has suffered

recently so I'm putting down to standard wear and tear. I'm leaning

more towards it being the mirror considering how far out of focus the

actual results are.</p>

 

<p>I'll be picking up another body given how cheap they are now, but

if any one has any experience with this problem, or has any light they

could shed then I'd be grateful. Obviously I'll be keeping the body

(can still use it at a push with the lens distance markings), but if I

can reduce the problem then even better.</p>

 

<p>Cheers</p>

I should also add that any form of TTL flash metering for skate photography should be avoided. You need COMPLETE control over your lighting power, including the flash durations (important). If the flash does not offer this control, or features a duration slower than 1/1000 on at least 1/2 power then don't bother with it. The Vivtar 285 flash offers 1/1000 at full power, that's why they popular with skate photog's.

That little electronic box is more than likely a LPA Pocket Wizard transmitter, the lead will be the PC cord to connect the transmitter to the flash port (on the lenses on the Hass right?). 99% of skateboard stills you see in mags are used with remote flash slaves, so the transmitter is used to remotely fire the flashes.

FWIW, here is the Tamron page on the SQ fish: http://www.tamron.com/bronica/prod/sq35.asp

There is a <b>35mm</b> full frame fisheye for the Bronica SQ series. You can see example shots on my website. It's just incredibly difficult to find, and even if you do you're looking at paying at least $1000 for it. Rectilinear wide angle lenses are no good for skate photography.

You've 4 choices:

 

1) Keep your current setup and only shoot at night - 1/60 x-sync is too slow for freezing action combined with a flash during the day, you need at least 1/200, ideally 1/500

2) Upgrade to a Bronica setup - but you'll probably never get hold of a fisheye (they're like rocking horse poo at the moment)

3) Upgrade to a Hassy setup - but you'll probably not want to spend c. $3000 on a fisheye to stick it in front of fast moving wood.

4) Ditch your setup and go back to to 35mm.

 

#4 is the most sensible idea if you don't want to look at options 2 & 3. I would also question the sensibility of wanting to stick a cheap third party fisheye lens onto a MF body?

 

Check out www.skateboardphotography.com when it is back up in a couple of weeks. There are many people in a similar situation to yourself, or that have been there, that can offer you some info.