andrzej_poniatowski
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Posts posted by andrzej_poniatowski
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Nigel, you say yourself that you ARE a newcomer. Then, you are surely
going to change camera bodies and lenses several times (loosing a lot
of money) until you find something that works for you. How many
bodies and lenses do YOU think a manufacturer should have in his
range of products? I bet there4ll always be somebody who misses
something! Pros (we are talking 35mm) use higher end Nikons and
Canons - no competition here! For all the rest of us, all the
manufacturers (Pentax, Minolta, Contax, Nikon, Canon - you name it)
have ENOUGH in their range to satisfy ANY user. There are some
ergonomic differencies but basically - you4ll get the same quality
for the same amount of money you invest! Just choose ANYTHING that
feels good in your hands and makes you feel comfortable and THIS is
your equipment!
Pentax is apparently NOT big in the USA (it IS big in Europe though)
so stop thinking about it. You CANNOT go wrong with either Nikon or
Canon - although there4s always something "missing", that your gear
doesn4t have. This is a compromise that you have to accept! I would
say that this compromise is "smallest" with Nikon gear (compatibility
and future expansion). So - go for a Nikon (advise from a Pentax
user!).
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"Pentax going down hill, lacking in lenses, bodies .." - what are you
raving about? I can assure you that Pentax never felt better.
"Limited number of lenses.." - nonsense! What about FA* 24/2, FA
43/1.9 Limited, FA* 85/1.8, FA* zooms and tele lenses? - they are
about the best lenses in the business. Sure, you can buy Nikon,
Canon, Minolta or anything else that suits YOU but stop writing
idiotic statements and don4t insult Pentax users4intelligence!
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I love Sigma EX lenses (also have 28-70/2.8 and 105/2.8 Macro) but
this model is NOT their best "effort". I shot 10 rolls of Reala with
this lens (on my Pentax MZ-3 body) on my recent trip to Israel. The
lens is O.K. but not GREAT as the other two. It performs best in the
20-24mm region with reasonably good sharpness and contrast.
Distortion in the corners is VERY bad but perhaps ALL zooms with this
range have it? I would say that FLARE is the second big problem but
then again, perhaps all the "others" are the same! It is difficult to
judge the len4s performance without comparing it to something else.
Mechanically and electrically I had NO problem with Sigma!
Still, I have NOT fallen in love with this lens and bought instead a
Pentax FA* 24/2 AL(IF) - now THIS is some lens! But that4s another
story.
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I have been using a Sigma 105/2.8 EX Macro for several months now
(together with a Pentax MZ-3 body).
I think the lens is one of the better (optically) lenses I have ever
used ( perhaps slightly soft on 2.8 and 4; super sharp and contrasty
when stopped down; superb macro performance, nice "feel" on manual
focusing) - seems to be well-made also! Very much recommended - for
the price it is a steal!
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Has anybody used/owned a Minolta PROD 204s - AF compact (fully automatic) manufactured in small quantities some 10 years ago? Any comments on camera4s performance?
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My friend has an old Practica camera with a "normal" prime 50 lens
which deliver very nice (and reasonably sharp) looking snap-shots
(the contrast and colour "balance" are truly outstanding).
For what it4s worth (the purists will crusify me) I have shot several
rolls of Reala (developed and printed by the same, quality, lab) on
both Leica M6 (with 35/2 Summicron lens) and Konica Hexar (black),
trying to shoot the same motive, at the same angle, almost at the
same time (within reason), handheld and on tripod. Both myself and
the owner of M6 have agreed that there was NO significant difference
in delivered quality (all shots taken at Manual Mode on both cameras)
as far as sharpness and contrast were concerned. There were some
slight differencies in colour rendition - perhaps due to small light
changes. We are talking ordinary 4 x 6 prints here! Perhaps ONLY when
enlarged, Leica M6 images would justify its ridiculous price. On the
other hand, Patek Philippe and Rolex still exist!
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What other medium format bodies, except Pentax 645, can be used with
Pentax 645 A lenses - if it is possible at all?
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Ron,
I know that top quality equipment does not automatically create a top
photographer; I know that some people can achieve wonders with a
Konica Pop - but only SOME. I totally disagree with the common
attitude - I am a beginner and looking for a simple camera to learn.
Many will be put off by what they achieve and turn to something else
- they think it is their fault that the photographs are out of focus
and under/overexposed, etc.. Give these people the right stuff from
the start!
The original question was if EOS3 would improve his photography - the
answer MUST be YES (depending on his past experience and the quality
of equipment he had been using). With the modern gear of today and
some brains you can, at least, come up with good looking images and
be a hero among your friends and family.
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I DO think that better equipment improves your photography. IB4ve been
a pro sound engineer for some 25 years and found out that top
results, in most cases, can only be achieved with top quality gear.
All these myths about John Shaw being able to shoot with a Russian
Leica and a Korean lens and DELIVER is rubish!
Go for the best (though usually grossly overpriced) and be stimulated
and inspired; THEN youB4ll know that if the results are no good IT IS
you and your technique. It does not matter if it is Canon, Nikon or
whatever; who can afford building bad quality for top dollar? Over a
certain price level EVERYTHING is good, let the ergonomics and
appearance decide.
EOS3 SHALL improve your photography!
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I have just installed a Beattie Intensreen on my Pentax 645 and it works great! Since the measurements are taken off the film plane it does not affect the readings. How it will work with Mamiya I do not know. Anyway, the Intenscreen is to be recommended - it does what they say it shall!
FM2n4s "holdability"
in Accessories
Posted
Is there any accessory (hand-grip of some kind) for Nikon FM2 cameras - to improve "holdability" - except for the MD-12 motor, which adds too much weight?
Any suggestions appreciated!