christopher_clark1

Being a collector of older cameras (1950's-1970's) I also like to use them. Or better said, if it is not practicable to use them I don't buy them. So no 126 or 110. I do however have a few rapid cassette cameras ( Fujica Rapid S2, Mamyia Myrapid, Minolta Rapid 24, Yashica Rapid Half 17 & EE etc.) I have found out that it is possible to push the whole length of a 24 shot 35mm film into a rapid cassette. This means that you take a normal 24 film and pull it out (in the darkroom of course) and cut the film off leaving just enough of a stub to tape it back together again. Then using the cut end first, push it all into the rapid cassette. You can now put this into the rapid camera and shoot the first half of the film. The camera's advance mechanism is made to stop after 12 (full frame) or 24 (half frame) shots, otherwise you wouldn't know when you reached the end of the film since there is no spool. To carry on with the rest of the film you just open the back (to zero the counter) and shoot the rest of the film. When finished, take out the cassette and tape the film which is sticking out back onto the original film stub. You can then wind the whole film back into the original can (in the darkroom of course). Now you can give the film can to your local foto lab, and no hassle with explaining what you are doing. It is also a little bit cheaper than only having 12 (24) shots since the developement costs of the film are the same regardless of length (here at least). I hope this information does not lead to a run on rapid cameras which then drives up the prices on ebay.(only a joke!!)

Hi Berk

Yes

 

Chris. C

Hi Berk

I use a CR1/3N lithium battery which has a nominal 3v but after the discharge has started it levels out at 2.8v. It is exactly the same length as a 640, has a low internal resistace, holds its charge for years (10?) and has a capacity similar to mercury cells. For the other battery (the 640's were nearly always used in pairs ) all you need is something conductive (brass rod alu. rod etc. ). I just don't understand what the fuss is all about when such an easy solution is available.

 

Chris. C

Hi Al

About batteries for the 5000e. You can use one CR1/3N lithium battery and a dummy battery for the other one. The CR1/3N is exactly the same length as the 640 and smaller in diameter. The voltage is a nominal 3v but once you start to use it goes to 2.8v, perfect for the job!

There are many cameras that used two 640's and this is the way to keep them in operation.

 

Chris C

Try Konica-collector.com

Hi Mike

This is my first contribution to this forum, but I could not resist any longer. Which is the better RF? sounds like an ideal start for a thesis. I have an Oly RC, QL17, Electro 35 (and CC), HiMatic 7sII and quite a few others. Some I had to fix, others came working. The main difference I find is that the Yashicas are great for taking night shots from a tripod or other steady base (put on a wall etc.) the exposures can take several seconds (5,10,15) and they all come out perfectly exposed without having to do any 'work' using bulb. I've taken a few harbour front scenes at night with bright lights from resturants etc. and a background of very dark to totally black. To get these good results you have to underexpose 2 to 3 stops (by setting the film speed higher) depending upon the amount of light to dark in the scene.

The RC also has a slower lens (2,8) than the others which can be a small disadvantage under certain conditions. All these older compact RF's are good shooters so its just a matter of personal taste. Since the are nearly all relativly cheap its possible to have a small (large??)collection without breaking the bank. I rarely go out with only one anyway!! Hope I added light to the confusion.

 

Chris C.