colin_monteith6

Re the response from Daniel Janssen, he is absolutely correct in saying normally expose for shadows and develop for highlights. My experience was that in the very first light, the shadows are very dark and difficult to meter. I found that using Polaroid test shots I was more successful by the method I used of metering for the sand highlights and opening up two stops. I was using a red filter during the day as I was showing only about 2.5 stops between the highlight and shadows and wanted a more dramatic effect.

When printing the B&W the negatives from my first trip two years ago, highlights (light side of dunes) were difficult to print to my satisfaction after metering shadows and developing for the standard 5 stops. There was detail OK in highlights but because of the defined shape of the dunes, buring in selected areas was not easy at all. Sand seems to contradict conventional wisdom for metering so bracket, bracket and bracket! And yes, even Ansel got it wrong the first time he did dunes as I remember reading in a book.

Hate to state the obvious but have you fired teh shutter with the back off and a slower speed to make sure you can see the mirror go up and the lens opening up. It can only be one of or all three of the following assuming its not bad film - shutter faulty/mirror not going up/film wrong way round.

Mamiya have a shift lens for the RZ that I am told works well. Then there is the Hasselblad Flex body.

Early morning can have 5 stop difference with highlights and dark shadow side of dunes. Meter for highlight and open up two stops to ensure that shadows side of dunes show enough detail. During the day open up 1 to 1.5 stops from meter reading and do something to enhance contrast (yellow/ornage/red filter) for B&W and or expand development. Watch out for sand which gets everywhere and best to wrap gear in plastic bags for extra protection. DO NOT go out in sandstorms as lots of airborne bacteria which can causes very severe asthma like illness.

For early morning shooting be up 1 hour before the sun comes up if you are close by (Stovepipe) and longer if you are elsewhere. It takes at least 30 minutes hard walking in soft sand from the road to get in place for good high dune shots and that magical first light leaves you a few minutes of top notch lighting. If there is a strong wind somewhere between the previous afternoon and overnight you will be well rewarded with good clean dunes without foot marks. If not you will most likely be unhappy from the previous days treckers.

 

Good luck

Given time and patience, the Toyo is going to cover everything you need. Given less time (or patience), and of course a lot of money go the Hassy route. The Arc Body has custom lenses that can't be used with the Flex Body which requires the C or CF lenses and of course the magnificent 903SWC has a fixed lens. To get all the Hassy items you mention, look to spending about $12-$14,000 for used or there abouts. The Toyo would be considerably less. I used a Toyo 4X5 and they are quite friendly but gave it up as post 40 eyesight was not the best and have since gone to Hassy 903SWC and a 203FE.

Have recently bought a 203FE body and the 60-120 FE zoom lens. Set the

camera up for a long exposure of 34 minutes last night and the camera

is now "dead". The lens can't be removed, the mirror is locked up,

electronics seem dead and it can't be rewound. I have changed the

battery but that does nothing. Any thoughts anyone before I head of to

some Hassy doctor somewhere?

I have a Zone viewing filter that I use for b&w work. This filter is

green. I saw another Zone filter recently that was almost like an ND

filter and very dark. Does anybody know what the purpose of this dark

filter is?