Jump to content

bob_watkins1

Members
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by bob_watkins1

  1. <p>Arca-Swiss Monoball housings are made of a very tough aluminum alloy, and are highly resistant to corrosion. If you are concerned with cosmetics, I'd recommend a simple model paint - Testers - for touch-ups. It comes in matte and gloss finishes, is easy to find at hobby shops, and is pretty tough even though it's formulated for plastic model kits.<br>

    Hope that helps!<br>

    Bob<br>

    Bob Watkins<br /> Precision Camera Works<br /> ARCA-SWISS SALES<br>

    ARCA-SWISS Authorized Service Center<br /> 7064 W. Main Street<br /> Niles, IL 60714<br /> <a href="http://www.precisioncameraworks.com/">www.precisioncameraworks.com</a><br /> Tel:847/470-3350<br /> Fax:847/470-3351</p>

    <p> </p>

  2. <p>Better late than never..</p>

    <p>You can also have almost all of your large format Sinar and Arca Swiss cameras repaired at our shop.<br>

    (we've been doing it for over 30 years now, please see our website for a list of all the cameras and lenses we repair)<br>

    precisioncameraworks.com</p>

  3. <p>Hello Jay!<br>

    We're very glad you are pleased with our work!<br>

    Thank you for the offer of the manual scan too!<br>

    As Colin O brings to our attention you can get the manuals here: <a href="http://www.kwdo.de/deutsch/noblex/download.htm">http://www.kwdo.de/deutsch/noblex/download.htm</a><br>

    too!</p>

    <p>We will be posting that link on our website as well and may, in the future, post direct PDFs as well.<br>

    As always, we are always available to answer your questions (Noblex and many many more!)</p>

    <p>Bob</p>

  4. <p>Thanks for the question, Michael.<br>

    Widelux and the Noblex cameras were both available in 35mm and 120 versions. They are wonderful cameras, but all have their individual issues. Widelux cameras are completely mechanical, all metal construction, and will take more of a beating, but a properly functioning Noblex camera rotates smooth-as-silk and is more likely to be free of "banding". Widelux cameras need regular cleaning and lubrication to render peak performance but don't have the electronic vulnerabilities of a Noblex. However, it's those electronics that allow for the greater range of shutter speeds in the Noblex. Some of the Noblex models have other features that the Widelux cameras don't, such as focusable lenses, lens shift, and multiple exposure capability. Many of the Noblex 150/175 models will also accept the versatile Panolux exposure module and the slow speed grip.<br>

    Battery corrosion is a common problem in Noblex cameras, especially the 135 models which use AAA's, so it's advisable to remove the batteries when not in use. The 150/175 models feature a rotary shutter speed selector switch, which is weakly constructed and can be easily damaged. Noblex cameras also need periodic replacement of the drive-wheels that rotate the drum. <br>

    Both companies are no longer in business, but we still have a reasonable supply of the most commonly needed replacement parts. We also re-manufacture the Noblex drive-wheels and shutter speed switches in house. Precision Camera Works was the authorized repair facility in the USA for Widelux at the time they closed.<br>

    As to a preference, if I were seriously into shooting panoramics with film, I'd probably own both, but would designate the Widelux as a back-up, primarily because of the greater versatility of the Noblex. The lenses are quite sharp on both of them, but I'd give the Noblex glass the edge.</p>

    <p>Bob Watkins<br>

    Precision Camera Works</p>

  5. <p>The drum problem is common but can be repaired. Like any mechanical problem it's best not to push any camera that isn't operating properly.</p>

    <p>You will find a great article for Noblex problems and repairs at:<br>

    http://precisioncameraworks.com/Media/NoblexInfo.pdf</p>

    <p>You will also find a PDF of the Noblex 150/175 manual at:<br>

    http://precisioncameraworks.com/Media/Noblex_150-175_Manual.pdf<br>

    (be warned it's a 24Mb file but it's the original manual!)</p>

  6. <p>As most of you know, the camera maker Noblex is no more. When Noblex closed its doors it also ceased providing replacement parts. This has posed quite a problem for repair technicians - and for you as the owners of these very expensive cameras. <br /> The great majority of our repairs on Noblex cameras are based on two areas of weak design:<br /><br /> 1) <strong>All</strong> Noblex cameras utilize a drive-wheel to rotate the drum. The surface of these drive-wheels is made from a rubbery, waxy material intended to minimize slippage and insure smooth rotation of the drum. These drive-wheels work well when new; but the material degrades over a fairly short period of time. Without replacement drive-wheels the camera is rendered unusable.<br /> The <strong>good news</strong> is that we have a method to rebuild the drive-wheels with a suitable, and hopefully much longer-lived rubber material. We have been using this material for about a year now with success.<br /><br /> 2) The 150 and 175 models suffer from an additional common failure, which can prove more problematic to remedy. The shutter speed control switch is of a poor design, and is prone to breakage or failure due to the weak plastic material used in its construction. Again, without replacement parts, these cameras are rendered useless. <strong>More good news:</strong> We have engineered a solution to rebuild them in a way that results in a more durable and reliable switch and works on all but the most severely damaged switches; if the switch housing is damaged in a way that doesn’t leave enough to salvage there will be no means to repair it.<br /><br /> <strong>Heed the warning signs</strong> If you start to notice more than the normal free-play in the shutter speed control dial, or the operation becomes erratic, don’t put off sending your camera in for repair. Continued use may result in further deterioration and render the switch assembly un-repairable. Likewise, if you notice that the drum no longer rotates smoothly and/or hangs-up during rotation, the drive-wheel most likely needs to be replaced. While continued use of the camera will cause no further damage in this instance, it will almost certainly, at best, be unreliable. <br /> Please see our website for contact and shipping information:<br /> <a href="http://www.precisioncameraworks.com" target="_blank">Precision Camera Works</a></p>
  7. <p><em>Current Information for </em><br>

    <strong>Precision Camera Works<br /> 7064 W. Main St.<br /> Niles, IL 60714<br /> </strong><br>

    <strong><strong><strong>bobpcw@comcast.net<br /> </strong> </strong> </strong><br>

    <strong><strong><strong>847 470 3350</strong> </strong> </strong><br>

    <strong><strong><strong><br /> </strong> </strong> </strong><br>

    See website for more info.<br>

    <a href="http://www.precisioncameraworks.com"><strong><strong><strong>http://www.precisioncameraworks.com</strong> </strong> </strong> </a><br>

    <strong><strong><strong><br /> </strong> </strong> </strong><br>

    <strong><strong><strong><strong>Repair of Professional Cameras/Authorized Arca-Swiss service</strong> </strong> </strong> </strong></p>

  8. We are seeking any information from a current Alpa Rotopan 360 owner/repair shop that has either a schematic of

    the board or is willing to remove the bottom plate from their own to help us identify one of the ICs.

     

    We have a blown IC that we need to replace but unfortunately the part number on the IC was destroyed when the IC

    blew so finding the proper replacement is virtually impossible without a reference point.

     

    It is the ONLY 16-pin IC on the board...

     

    Please see image...

     

    Any help would be appreciated!

     

    Here are the numbers we CAN read:

     

    Part number: CD * * * * UBE (where the stars are the missing numbers)

    Batch number: RCA 249

     

    Thanks to everyone in advance for your help!

     

    Robert

     

    Precision Camera Works<div>00QCc8-57887584.thumb.jpg.52fd7f8fc27d8b9411ec8b53fae9ca9d.jpg</div>

  9. We are seeking any information from a current Linhoff 360 owner/repair shop that has either a schematic of the

    board or is willing to remove the bottom plate from their own to help us identify one of the ICs.

     

    We have a blown IC that we need to replace but unfortunately the part number on the IC was destroyed when the IC

    blew so finding the proper replacement is virtually impossible without a reference point.

     

    It is the ONLY 16-pin IC on the board...we can send you a very good image if need be..

     

    Any help would be appreciated!

     

    Here are the numbers we CAN read:

     

    Part number: CD * * * * UBE (where the stars are the missing numbers)

    Batch number: RCA 249

     

     

    Thanks to everyone in advance for your help!

     

    Robert

     

    Precision Camera Works<div>00QCXI-57865584.thumb.jpg.57b312592d4ab8ff2c1da52dee6a99b5.jpg</div>

×
×
  • Create New...