marc_berg

Yep, I meant parallel, of course; don't know what I was thinking of...

Godfrey, thanks for your answer. I think it's quite clear now.

M

Hi, Nick,

and thanks for your answer. The ES-10 is a film scanner using a serial connector, sorry for the mess.

The official software is Windows only stuff and so far I know, VueScan does not work with the ES-10. Therefore the problem.

M

Hi all,

can anyone help? I did not find any thread on this.

Do I have a chance of running my girlfriend's Olympus ES-10 on a recent mac (also, no serial, no SCSI, no

drivers, no software)?

Just willing to bring my nice Rollei 35 S back to life...

Many thanks.

Marc

Hi all,

my old Icarex 35 shutter has stopped working properly. What do you think, is it

worth repairing? I do not use the camera much. Just have 1 lens -Tessar 50-, but

would be willing to have it repaired it if it is an easy job.

Thanks for your answers.

Marc

Thanks for your answers.

I had heard the quality of the russian lenses depends on the sample you get. Some people are

very happy; some others are not. I guess the Biogon 35 sells for pretty much the same

amount as the Nikkor. How about a Sonnar 50 -though it is no WA-?

Thanks again.

Marc

Thanks for your answers.

Actually my budget is below 100$. I do not want to invest much money in a lens, since I have

other 35 mm cameras. But I wanted to try something wide on the Pentax. 24 and 28 seem to

be a good choice. I'll have to decide if I keep the LX anyway.

Thanxs again.

Marc

Hi all,

I am looking for a lens to fit my recently acquired Contax II. Preferably wide

angle, but not really important. I am looking for a good price/performance ratio.

What would you recommend?

Thanks for your comments.

Marc

Can anybody recommend a wide angle -so, 35 and below- for a Pentax LX. I have

recently got one LX body and have no idea how good Pentax lenses -or lenses for

Pentax- are.

Thanks.

Marc

Oh, mine focusses nicely on my M6; so does my Elmar-C, but that does not mean anything

about focussing differences between both cameras and lenses.

Please, do not take me wrong; the summicron C is a nice lens. But that's all.

Cheers.

Marc

I can't understand why everybody is so mad about this lens. It's OK, but nothing to write

home about anyway. The perspective of it being "cheap" could be argued, when comparing

it to newer Voigtlaender glass or a Rollei 35.

Perhaps I got a bad example, but I doubt it.

Concerning the focussing issue, the cam is surely different from M lenses, so probably the

focussing accuracy could be worse -sort of higher distance sensitivity to the same rotation

of the lens-.

Cheers.

Marc

Take a look at this post.

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00JcVK

Cheers.

Marc

Hi all,

I had one problem with focussing my Rollei 35 S. All shots, even at f22 were out of focus. I posted the

question here

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00KVHy

and got to fix it with the help of a friend. He happened to have done it once and everything was quite

easy. Pics are in focus now.

Now my question: the lens flares now noticeably -even with a lens hood- and I have the impression image

quality is not what it used to be. I tested my 35 S with a friends and I could tell a slight resolution decrease

in mine. I made a few shots against the sun with both -mine havein the hood on, my friend's without it-

and mine flared more than his. Could this problem be connected with the previous focussing problem? Is

the camera so sensitive to focussing or should I rather think of a slight misalignment?

Thanks for your comments.

Regards.

Marc

Ben,

it seems you have the Rollei itch! That is what I wanted to avoid getting the Rolleicord. I

knew I would have ended up buying a much more expensive Rolleiflex 2.8. I am happy

now and am not planning to get another one -just my green jealous friends are :p-.

However, I found many posts here stating the importance of getting a lens shade for the

Rolleicord. I paid for original shade+filter around 30$, wich compared to the 140$ I paid

for the camera is a fortune. At least the shade looks cool on the camera ;)

Cheers.

Marc

Hi all,

I just bothered you some time ago by asking if I would notice a quality leap

using a Rollei TLR compared to 35mm. I got shortly afterwards a CLAed Rolleicord

Vb and got to use it. Sorry, I have no scanner available and cannot post pics,

but once I got larger prints, my first comments would undoubtedly be: wow!

Very nice camera, very nice images, even for a low-end Rollei -seeing what

they're marketing nowadays, they should be ashamed of themselves-. Even wide

open, I do not find the softness to be compromising.

Now, perhaps an interesting point. Thinking I could need filters for BW and a

shade for such an old lense, I got them not cheap afterwards. Surprisingly, I

have taken several contre-jour shots without shade and none of them shows flare;

so I guess the shade is not really THAT necessary -more surprisingly, I find it

most necessary in my Rollei 35 S, by the way-. Goes without saying that shots

without filter showed good contrast too... Sorry if what I tell is too elementary :)

Glad to read your comments.

Cheers.

Marc

Ann,

I find the price is very good if you get the camera working for less than 50-75$. I paid for

mine around 80$, but it had one ding on the top plate. However, I have to say I was lucky,

since I have not seen one for less than 120$ since then. I have had a couple of problems

with it, but fixing was easy. I tend to think my relatively bad luck has to do with my

example. A couple of friends of mine also have a 35 S and have never had problems with

it.

My impressions testing it side by side with a Summicron 50 is that the Sonnar is clearly

inferior to the Summicron. However, this does not mean the Sonnar is a bad lens. Its

performance is outstanding and I bet you'll be very satisfied with the results. A friend of

mine also compared his 35S with a Nikkor 50 f/1.8. I remember he told me the Nikkor had

more contrast than the Sonnar. He also thought resolution of the Nikkor was slightly

better, although this could be due to 40-50 fram difference.

Rollei 35 S is a fun to use and I rarley get unfocussing or bad exposures. A very nice

camera indeed.

Cheers.

Marc

Hi Rob,

thanks for your answer. Mine is the 90 collapsible, not the 50. Is it the same for the 90?

Thanks.

Marc

John,

thanks for the answer. I do not know, but I think he has already repaired old Zeiss and

Voigtlaender lenses. The main problem is that I live in Europe and shipping is probably

expensive. I did not want to pay more than 50-100$ for the cleaning, since I am not sure

performance will improve and have not used much the FL either.

Cheers.

Marc

Hi all,

I have a collapsible Elmar 90 with a circular haze pattern. Performance is average even stopped down and

would like to clean it. I have not found a place to habe it CLA'd cheaply where I live. A friend of mine who

has already cleaned lenses offered to do the job, but did not dare to disassemble the lens not to damage

it. Is there a service manual or something similar?

Many thanks.

Marc

Hi Matus,

I got recently a user Rolleicord Vb from Fotowerkstatt Wiener (Gerard Wiener) in Munich. It

is not a camera shop; just a repair centre, but he has some cameras there. My 'cord was in

used condition cosmetically, but he just CLA'd it for me. Everything cost around 130 Euros.

Now, I had been looking for them at the auction site and I believe they can be had for less

money. Anyway, you can't be sure the camera does not need a CLA. He also offered me a

Yashica and an Autocord for the same amount; I wanted the Rollei anyway. I am not at all

related to him, and still he has repaired for free twice my Rollei 35 and a Hasselblad -alles

Kleinigkeiten, aber...-

Hope it helps.

Cheers.

Marc

Keep in mind that it takes them a couple of days to have it developed. I don't know why, but usually 3-4 days.

Any questions you might have, suggestions or so, do not hesitate to ask.

Cheers.

Marc

Developing is around 2 euros, so around 2.6$, if film is not pushed. Around 4 euros if it's pushed.

Concerning prints, it depends on what you mean by reasonable and the quality you expect. I left my enlarger back home and I no longer dare get B&W prints anymore. If you use monochromatic B&W films, then a 13x20 cm print will cost around 20 cents -the same for 13x13-. 20x20 cm will be around 50 cents, if I am not mistaken. Real B&W film prints are quite expensive. Small prints -9x13- cost around 35 cents and 13x20 around 1.5 euros. I guess the prices for 13x13 -don't know if the also do 9x9- are pretty much the same. These are the prices at Sauter, but I don't think anywhere else it's going to be much cheaper -unless you get your prints at the local drugstore, what I'd avoid for B&W anyway-.

Cheers.

Marc

Autant pour moi,

sorry, it is Landwehrstrasse, of course. Again, not Sonnenstrasse -where Sauter is- but

Schwanthalerstrasse, what Uli meant. You have a couple there...

Gruss.

Marc

Hi all,

the independent shop at Josephsspitalgasse Winfried means closed down last year. The

prices were not top notch, but in their last days I got a couple of bargains there -no

camera though-.

Foto Sauter is not cheap, but equipment is in good condition. It depends on what you are

looking for anyway. I got there my black Rollei 35 S for around 80$. Near Sauter, in the

Landwherstrasse, there is a repair centre -Foto Werkstatt Munich- where you could find

something interesting. The guy is really nice -and has repaired that Rollei 35S already

twice without charging me anything- and has some used equipment to sell too.

There are a couple of stores near the Central Station -Hauptbahnhof, I think Schillerstrasse

and Sonnenstrasse-, but as I say, it depends on what you are looking for.

Please feel free to ask.

Cheers.

Marc

PS. I am not a genuine muenchener, that's why I do not hesitate to order Weisswuerste in

the afternoon :)

Anybody has an idea where to buy Bay 1 filters/caps.

What's the best choice for them? Are Rollei filters overpriced?

Thanks for comments.

Marc