sandtonman
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Posts posted by sandtonman
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Steve
Thanks but I beg to differ. Yes the background was the table, but the table was covered with White seamless paper if you read carefully. So this white background appears as grey and off pink color in the different photos...If you think you can reproduce a white background from this kind of setup then I will be interested to know how.
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Steve
I think what you are telling me, is to direct the light more and add another diffuser ..ok I will try that...I may even design a table with a light source underneath...the surface I use for my jewelry is clear perspex..the watch sits on a semi trasnparent perspex which is off white..
I also now have a 3rd light set up above the light box and pointing down..that has given me a more vivid photo , better lit with greater contrast..
I have seen setups where they use softboxes as well as a light tent..maybe you need to look at this link..would be interested in your comments..
http://ny.webphotoschool.com/Shooting_Jewelry_in_a_Tent/
Also I dont use a meter..I meter of the camera..I point at the 18 % grey with the camera close, and read off the readings...maybe its better to use a hand held meter?
Thanks for your input
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Hi steve
I am using two light sources outside my light tent (which is basically semi-transparent plastic..the two sources are 500W each on either side of the light tent..you can see the light tent undre my photos..I think there is no seperate subject/BG lighting as such..because it is one whole diffused light..
I was just thinking in terms of colours and optics..a surface is only white because it reflects all the colours..and since diffused light has light which is randomly orientated, there is lots of scattering as well as reflection of the light..maybe I thought that is why it is not white..its the same reason why the sky is blue..it is not really blue, but because blue light scatters more into our eyes then red light, we see the sky as blue...:-)
Also I did use spot metering ...
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Edward
Some guy told me in another part of the forum that the D70 is set to be about 2 stops under exposed, and he thought maybe the d100 and suggested that I should ask here..so I am doing that..
I have a theory that you can not get a white background in a diffused lighting environment which is what this is..this has been my experience..it always appears off white or slightly grey..and I think this is because the light is very diffused..I have never seen someone photographing in a diffused light a product which has come out with a nice clean white background..most of the jewelry photos you see in a jewelry magazine have been touched up with Photoshop to remove the background with White...
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Steve
I pointed my camera on the grey card on Auto, read off F16, 1/25th.
Went to manual, loaded those in and shot at the white..it was not white..but grey..so I dropped down to F16, 1/5th to get the white white..but if I take my photos with these settings I get a photo which is heavily over exposed...so I am back to taking a photo with grey background, and removing the background with Photoshop..I dont think you can get white background under the conditions I am shooting...
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Hi
I metered off a grey card to get my calibration right for a white
background...I was getting a grey background all the time instead of
a white background..I found my D100 to be 2 points under exposed..is
that the correct way for a D100 setting?
http://www.photo.net/photos/SandtonMan
(see the 3 grey/white background pics nos..2,3,4
cheers
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Robert
Thanks for your reply. The histogram I just use for checking..it tells me if the photo is clipped at the high tones or not, and and check to see if the mid tone peak is in the right place..its just a checking tool..
You say the photo is not perfect..I want it to be..so what in your opinion is wrong( the line at the back..thats easily corrected..thats where the perspex table edge is..)...anything else..white background..you cant get it..you have to take that off with Photoshop..anything else..the Lighting..is as near perfect as I can get it..
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I have seen some guys selling Light Tents in Ebay and they recommend using 30W lamps...I really dont think 30W lamps are powerfull enough for the job..I am using 2 500W lamps on sides and 1 150W lamp from top..I think 30W will give a very low contrast photo...
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Mike
how do you do that? I am using CS and in the Levels tool where do I go...options? I dont see anyhwhere else..normally to get white background in PS you have to remove the background by outlinning the object...
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Thanks everyone for your response and encouregement..they say the journey of a 1000 miles start at the first step..
Chris..I may ask the guys at the Nikon forum about the d100
Kirk Thanks for the link
and I just posted new photos as a comparison...see my post today
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They are very close. Why do you think no. 1 is better..I think 2 has more contrast..ist very subjective isnt it..:-)
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Hi
These are currently my best photos with all the corrections and
everything (pls see my last post). Both these
photos ,http://www.photo.net/photos/SandtonMan no1 and no. 2 in my
portfolio (the first 2, Gold ring with light blue stone) were taken
with two different light tents:
1. Photo 1 was taken with a semi Trasnparent Plastic Light Tent..now
I am using 3 light sources instead of 2 ( 1 above 150W, and 2 on each
side 500W)
2.Photo 2 was taken with Chaffron material and tracing paper.
Now which of these two photos of the gold ring do you think is the
best...It is subjective, and looking at both histograms there is not
much of a difference..I would like your opinion ...Many thanks
PS The background is as white as I can get right now, and anything
more I would have to take it out with PS
TIA
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Thanks for both your comments..Very helpfull...
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Hi
I have put this in a new post . The old post about why I was not
getting White Background but grey, most of the respondendts suggested
I use a Grey Card to Calibrate my metering and that White appears as
Grey to my Digital Camera (D100) until I calibrate it with a Grey
Card..well I did this today..and here are the results:
Please look at the first 3 photos at :
http://www.photo.net/photos/SandtonMan
Photo 1: Is the Grey Card next to the White Background which is a
shiny white Photographic paper in my light tent. What I did , I first
pointed my lens (Sigma Macro 105) with spot metering at the Grey Card
and read off the values (F16, 1/25th, ISO 200 +0.3 EV)
I then went to manual and loaded the readings and shot Photo 1 which
is the Grey Card next to the white background. As you can see the
grey is TOO GREY and the white is not very white at all. Infact
looking at the histograms, the grey peaks at 94 and the "White" at
186.
PHOTO2: I then ussed the same settings, F16 but went down to 1/6th
sec shutter...and I got a lighter grey and a better white background.
The histogram peaks shifted to grey at 137 and "white" at 227. That
is much better then Photo 1. But still my white is not snow White.
PHOTO3 : Photo 3 is just the White Background, same setting as Photo
2, but with a shutter speed of 1/5th instead of 1/6th. It is a very
good White and the Histogram peaks at 242 which is near the edge of
White.
What that means is that when I pointed my Lens on the Grey Card and
got F16, 1/25th , the Grey was too dark. so my Meter is underexposing
the grey and shifting it from midtone to darktone by quitea bit.
I had to go to shuuter speeds from 1/25th to 1/5th to get My White
Background (Photo3). I am not sure what this means , but this tells
me that the camera settings are wrong..the photos are darker then
what they should be and my Grey Card metering is way too dark and not
really grey and I have to decrease my shutter speed by a factor of 5
to get the right histogram for both the mid grey and the white..
So what do I do, do I take my D100 to Nikon and get it re-calibrated?
Many Thanks
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HI Stephen
Thanks..I did that already and I got some good shots which I am relatively happy with, I say relatively. I know I need to imrpove on my lighting..I am gona add another light from Top..I am shooting RAW and PS is doing a tremendous job with the contrast and the sharpness..
But I decided yesterday to really test the camera and take these shots of the white background..and I was amazedd at the results..just how many folk out there know that if you take a picture of the snow or someone skiing, it will come out grey and you have to cary this little grey card with you..I am curious if my F90 will behave the same way as my D100
From what I understand , Nikon and the other manufacturers, calibrate their meters with 18% grey...and actually, very little is said in the manual about this..So does that mean that for best shots you always have to cary the grey card with you..because each shot is different, and if the meter is trying to decide that the midtone is really grey , then its ok, if the scene is like that..if it is not..as in my case, its trouble..
I now know how to remove the grey background with PS and I am going that route..but if the camera is set up incorrectly from the start..something is gona get lost somewhere, either contrast , resolution or whatever..any post processing is loosey, so I try and set up the camera to do minium post processing..
and now I am told that my contrast is not all that great because my pixels start at about 30 and go up to only 210..which is only 7..but having checked the histogram of many jewelry photos, mine as well as some "very famous sites", I see a histogram which is either packed in the middle or clipped at one end..and I plan to put up a post and some histogram pics on that soon about contrast...I am trying to get a good lighting situation to get maximum contrast of my rings..
cheers
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HI Laurie
I am using a light box...check out my photos and you will see the light box there..I think your explanation is detailed ..:-)
Can you explain your setup...thanks...
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Laurie
I am using a Nikon D100. I think the Grey card readings may conflict with what I am trying to do , which is getting the right DOF and shutter speed to give me the right exposure. I am shooting F16 1/10th.
As far as more lights..I think I have enough lights right now, 2x500W, and the subject is small anyway (Jewelry). I may add a third light vertically down to give better contrast to the jewelry
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Chris, laurie
Thanks..I will go out and get a grey card..so all I have to do is just take a photo of the grey card, and i assume, the D100 somewhere will take readings of this photo and say , aha, this is grey..I dont have to tell the camera, this photo is of a grey card do I? And when it shoots a white background, it will get those grey readings and say, oh this is white ..not grey
I am using very strong Tungsten 2x 500 W lamps, so there is plenty of light...So perhaps underexposed is the wrong word, maybe a grey/white confusion by the camera is the right word?
And I am not going to play with grey cards and white balance, because the white balance is now correctly set for the lights I am using..
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I am somewhat confused about this grey card...why do I have to meter off a grey card? Does that mean my background will always be grey?
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TF Thanks..I am gona get some grey cards and meter off those..
Chris
Does that mean that white will always be grey no matter what..unless you flood it with light or over expose?
My setup is a Nikon D100 plus 105 Macro Lens 2.8, and a Light tent..I am shooting f16 and ISO 200
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HI
I took the 3 photos in my portfolio (the 1st 3)
http://www.photo.net/photos/SandtonMan
of a White Background(White Photographic paper) using my Nikon D100
and my Sigma Macro Lens..As you can see it is not very white at
all..and it is not under exposed because I checked the histogram each
time ..its not clipped at the dark end...so how come my camera is not
producing a White Background?
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David
Thanks for the reply. I would agree with you that getting the lighting right is a factor. Maybe I should include another lamp either vertically down or something light that. What is this Curve ? Is this related to one of my photos?
thanks
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Yes its Digital. So what should I do not spot meter?. I spot meter on the Gemstone in the ring, or on the metal part of the ring...I only shoot Raw
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Hi Dan
The background is not really white..its more the semi-trasparent plastic..whiteish grey...so you think it is that which causes the problem...?
grey card metering off D100
in Nikon
Posted
Hi Steve
I dont think their results are special..but at least they have done a decent attempt at it..my experience with lots of these ring shoots is that they tend to be all overexposed ..there is quite a lot of clipping on the hightones...
cheers