nutmeg-42

<p>Jon, I don't use my printer professionally, but do quite a few prints a month so there is possibly one, sometimes two weeks that it's sitting idle. I find it strange that you had black ink in your yellow pattern as I had the exact same thing. It took about the same amount of cleanings as you to clear the black ink. When I was trying to find the answer to this online, I do remember seeing a situation exactly the same as this on the DPReview forums. I too hope the problem doesn't return, but I think Jon you may be wise in not taking that bet. </p>

<p>"<em>and it starts at some point in usage, when the foam in the sinking pads for excess ink gets filled up with ink</em>" - actually my problem happened after I replaced the maintenance tank that holds the foam pads for the excess ink (which is an easy do it yourself job like replacing the inks). I had the Photo Black clog up on me and in the midst of running the head cleaning routine, the maintenance tank full pops up and as I didn't have another tank to replace it or a chip to reset the machine after cleaning the originals, I let the machine sit until I received the new tank. So after putting in the new maintenance tank and then proceeding to finish off unclogging the Photo Black numerous times I finally have a perfect pattern printed indicating that the heads are running as they should. Then when I started printing out photos I get the same streaks and blobs as Jon Huggins has. Took about 6 or 7 A3+ prints before it came good. Sorry I should have stated all this in my original response.</p>

<p>My 3880 has done the exact same thing just recently, but has now come good after running quite a few prints through. And it was the Photo Black that clogged and took about the same amount of head cleanings for it to come good. Is it possible there could be a fault here. I've had my printer for almost 2 years and it gets regular use and I have never had this problem before. </p>

<p>I have the i1 Pro and use it the same way as Alan but with the new i1 Publish software. You have to hold the button in while scanning the strip and release it at the end. I find sometimes if I'm a little bit quick releasing the button at the end of the strip or have moved across the strip a little too quickly it gives me an error. Otherwise I have found the new software gives less errors than the old i1 Match software, or maybe my technique has just improved.<br>

Margaret</p>

<p>Not sure if anything has changed, but last year at a Photography convention we had the privilege of a demonstration and talk by one of the Nik Software guys which was mind blowing. One question asked was, are you able to use smart filters in LR like you can in PS with Nik plugins and the answer was no. I have only just started using the Nik plugins with smart filters in PS and it is a huge advantage. Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Greg, I am in the same boat as you except I went with the R Strap to keep things off my right shoulder/neck, which was working fine. I have 2 straps and used the CoupleR to combine the two straps to carry two cameras when I did a wedding. Worked well as the weight was evenly distributed and there was no stress on my shoulders. The biggest problem I had with this was the upper body bulk and the straps moving and slightly hindering my movement. Someone on this list in a thread mentioned the Spider Holster and I haven't looked back. I have two of them set up on a ThinkTank Pro Speed Belt v2.0 and they are wonderful. Can quite easily have a D300 with 70-200mm f2.8 and D700 with MB-D10 and 24-70mm f2.8 along with a couple ThinkTank modular packs carrying either another lens or flash gear. I think the only negative about this set up is that I look like a gunslinger, but sometimes I think, that is not a bad thing. </p>

<p>I don't have experience with the ColorMunki or the R1900. I used to own the R1800 and then R2880 and now have the 3880 and have profiled these printers with the i1 Pro, which is X-Rite also. My first attempts at profiling did the same, producing dark prints. It wasn't until I googled and found the Adobe forums that I found that the Eye-One Match 3 software recommended luminance of 120 for LCD screens was in fact too bright and that it should be set around 80 to 90 luminance. As soon as I did that the prints came out right. Even for my sister who was not working in a colour managed set up at the time, found that by turning the brightness of her monitor down fixed her dark print problems as well. As far as the colour being too warm, I have found after profiling a number of papers that some papers just produce warmer tones than other. I found this with Ilford's Smooth Pearl and especially the Epson papers. The best way I counteract this is to do soft proofing in PS and adjust the image with the proofing on. Hope I have helped.<br>

Margaret</p>

<p>+1 for me too on the Gold Fiber. Very nice paper at a great price. </p>

<p>I am so glad I saw this post. I have been using all the Nik plug-ins on CS 5 in 64 bit mode running Mac OS 10.6.5 and haven't had any problems until just recently. It was quite frustrating, especially as I was working on a photograph for someone else while she was watching. I thought it might have been a software glitch and not my magic mouse, but wasn't sure. Thank you Jack for your post. </p>

<p>I have had a super quick fiddle with it on a couple of photos and it does an amazing job. I tend to use mainly the presets on all the Nik software and with the amount of presets it has this will probably be used the same. Love how the default preset looks and the realistic one is very subtle. Just how I like HDR, realistic and natural. Well worth the money. </p>

<p>Margaret Hamwood</p>

<p>I have the 14-24mm and discovered the Lee filter for it, but being in Australia I wasn't going to pay 600 odd bucks for it. I found an alternative in Cokin for a lot less. The X Pro range with a universal ring which sits on the outside of the built in lens hood. See here http://www.cokin.fr/ico2-p1.html I have put the set up on the lens with a Grad ND filter and it looks like it will work perfectly. Haven't actually taken a shot with it yet, but the filter is absolutely huge compared to my P filters so I feel that I won't have vignetting problems. </p>

<p>Duplicated post, sorry.</p>

<p>I print with an Epson R2880 and love it so I'm sure there should be a solution for the 3880 as they use the same inks. I had a look at my online print paper supplier as I know they sell the NEC monitors as well as Eizo and I found this page. Towards the end of the page under the title of 'Taking it a step further - defining better calibration targets for print work'<strong> </strong>it talks about the contrast ratio for prints. As I use a Mac and don't have an NEC monitor, I'm not too sure if this is a solution. Hope it helps anyway. <br>

http://www.imagescience.com.au/kb/questions/142/How+To+Calibrate+An+NEC+Monitor+With+SpectraView+II</p>

<p>This is the one Photo.net thread I always look at instead of skimming when my mailbox is full to overflowing. All brilliant photos again, as usual. Here is my contribution, second time. There were four lovely curlews sitting quietly in front of my parked car enjoying the sun. I expected them all to bolt when I got my camera out and moved a little closer to them. Luckily it was at a local tourist beach and I think they were used to us humans. <br>

D300, 300mm AF-S f4, f8 1/320s, ISO 800. (I too forget to check my ISO regularly.....*sigh* one day)</p><div></div>

I have just recently purchased the Nikon 300/4 AF-S and I'm extremely happy with it. It's close focusing distance along

with extension tubes will be great for some macro work. Haven't tried it yet, but have seen some excellent results. I have

used it with my Nikon 1.7x teleconverter and I'm very pleased with the results. They say a 1.4x is better and doesn't reduce

the image quality at all. I have also purchased a Nikon TC-301 2x Teleconverter AIS and with my D300, the results are way

better than I thought they would be. At the price this lens is, I've definitely got a bargain. Not sure how it compares to the

f2.8 version and VR would be nice, but with a lens this size I use a tripod anyway.

<p>I started with ImageNest 1.1 and have just recently downloaded the final 2.0 beta although I haven't used it yet. This is a brilliant programme to use and is very intuitive. I had some problems with the next version and BlueCubit's support is second to none. Almost instant replies to emails and they had me up and running again in no time. I can use my own custom printer profiles when printing by using the Colour Matching drop down menu in the Print dialogue. From what I've seen 2.0 adds more features and I'm looking forward to using it. I'm printing on an Epson R2880 and even though it's not used all the time, buying this programme was definitely money very well spent.</p>

<p>My first time participating. Just spent a week with my sister concentrating wholly on photography. This was taken under Serenity Falls, Buderim, Queensland.</p><div></div>

<p>I upgraded my D200 to the D300 last year. I said I wasn't going to do it as I was very happy with my D200, but a deal came up that I couldn't let go by and I'm so glad I did. It's a beautiful camera and well worth the upgrade. ISO performance is a huge improvement over the D200 not to mention D-Lighting and I find the autofocus system easier to understand than the D200. The resolution of the LCD screen is incredible and a huge improvement. I also like the fact that you can view all your settings on the back LCD screen. Helps a lot with us older people with failing eyesight. </p>

That's amazing. In Australia we had a smiley face. I will attempt to post an image.<div></div>

To add to what I wrote previously, I checked the NikonUSA site just in case the model numbers were different to Australia

and what I have I think is the next step up to what you are looking at. I was originally going to purchase what you are

looking at, but was advised that the SU-800 Wireless Speedlight Commander that comes with the R1C1 kit is worth the

extra. Due to the fact that they had R1C1 in stock and I was impatient I spent the extra and I'm so glad I did. I have used

the commander to control the SB-800 and SB-R200 off camera and it just gives more scope to how I can utilise the

equipment I've got.

If you mean the R1C1 kit, I highly recommend it. I have used it briefly for close up flower photography and have been very

impressed with the outcome (have not needed to use an SB-800 in this situation). It's very easy to use and I have used the

SB-R200 lights that are included, as back lights with the different gel filters in place for some portraits. This is done with an

SB-800 as a trigger. When you get the kit, as well as the manual, you get a creative guide on how to use the gear

differently. All I can say is I'm very happy I outlaid the money.

Want to hear something strange. A fellow who used to be in the camera club I returned to has sort of gone pro and is shooting weddings

full time. He is Canon through an through and always buys the best. He had two Canon 1D Mark III's and I'm sure only the best in lenses

he needed. Turns out he attended some wedding photographers convention and most of the pros were using or converting over to the D3.

So now he's doing the same. Selling all his gear and starting up a Nikon kit. Personally I think he's mad as I'm sure the D3 won't do

anything magical or that much better than what he's already got, but then I've never used a D3 so I wouldn't know. I'm just so surprised that

he's doing this because like I said earlier, he was a Canon man and looked down on Nikon.

I use this feature as well, and have it on reset on my D300. On a couple of occasions I have forgotten about it and moved

the wrong dial, but I always see the meter move and rectify it. I find it quite quick and handy. I suppose it all depends on

how you shoot.

I only have the Tamron 17-50mm and the Nikon 18-200mm in your list. The Tamron is a

very nice lens. Very sharp and works wonderfully on my D200. The Nikon 18-200 is also a

nice lens for general use but I wouldn't say it's as sharp as the Tamron. Mind you it stays on

the camera most of the time and the shots taken are quite good. It would depend on what

your intended use is. I must admit when I first got the Nikon I was pleasantly surprised with

the images and the VR feature is a big plus. The Tamron is excellent value considering its

price and the images it takes.

I bought my 18-200 VR lens thinking that I would be just doubling up on the lenses I already

had and was prepared to sell it if I found it to be average. I love it. I know it has weaknesses,

but for a walk around lens (especially for holidays) I'm extremely happy with the shots that it

takes and I have found the VR very handy. I tend to get into a bad habit of rushing my

photography and some shots I thought would show blur have actually turned out quite good

and I'm sure I have VR to thank for that.