florainer

<p>Folks,</p>

<p>i wanted to bring the Austrian born and raised AARGH zine to your attention. I covers a wide range of hotographic topics (yes, nudes too).<br>

Best of all, the current issue of AARGH can be read for free in its full extent: <br /><br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.aargh.at/archives/1441" target="_blank">http://www.aargh.at/archives/1441</a><br /><br />enjoy!</p>

El, you are right, i had a certain situation in mind when thinking about the hole system: street shots as close ups, but also pictures in trains. so a lens that is wider than 50 but not 20 seemed to be good enough.

@ David: thanks for the hint, i'll definitely check that out and compare prices.

@ Steven: I find that site very very interesting but after i have not managed finance portfolios for years I'm on a tight budget - that's why i'm lookin for a setup that doesn't get my in the troubles of an eviction - i dont need that at the moment ;-)

Thank you for the fast answer Joop, that's exactly what i needed to know. what i also learn from your answer: the leica m has the same hood as the bessa. sth i suspected, but didn't know yet... I'm really a bloody beginner (again). with regards,

fr.

I'm new in the rf field of photog. (or better: I'm not even there yet) and I'm

shopping around for a few items that won't ruin me, financially speaking. Now i

found out that a 35mm lens is a must, and that the summicron is a good thing. i

found a used one, selling for relatively little money. It's called 35mm

Summicron-R 2.0. i found out that there are lenses that are called the same

(except: M instead of R) but cost 5times as much as the one i inspected.

the question now is: the R is for he lens hood right? but which cameras can i

use it on then? can e.g. use it on a Bessa R2M / Bessa R2? Which Cameras can i

use it on in general??

Thanks for helping out a newby

 

fr.

thank you all for the answers, and thank you bob for making me understand what the 1:1 printed on macro lenses actually means. i go with the answer of Nadine in this case; and why haven't i come up with the simple logic of Mark/marc. so i guess it's a communication problem between the 400d and the sigma, because thinking back, i didnt experience this on the 350d). thanks again for the answers but: what am i'm going to do now? i guess i'll try out some further testing, and decide later. have a nice evenig/day, florian.

1: i picked the point and focussed carefully, always (but the screen of the 400 is small, so unless it's close up, it's hard to see a difference. 2: single shot mode. 3. no MF, AF all the time. 4: I'll google focus test then. 5: i thought there is a generall konwledge about that, and if it's not the photographers fault, the is a "rule" for judgment. best wishes, fr.

Yesterday I experienced a problem that I've not taken much notice of yet: many

photos i took seemed to be focussed slightly behind my subject. i heard about a

phenomenon called backfocusing. i guess that's it. my question now: is it a

problem of the body or a problem of the lens? i use a sigma 50-150 2.8 on a

canon 400d. or is it a problem of communication between the two? answers would

be greatly apprecited.

Thanks alot Jim. I allready feared that this was the case; it sucks. Now i will have to buy another sigma (or a canon wireless trigger which is expensive) that can be triggered with white light, because i like the EX as an on camera flash allready. What i did was, mounting the 430 on the camera, and triggered the Sigma with the flash the 430 producd. of course this was in all manual mode. i will try out the e-ttl mode soon, thanks for the hint.

best wishes from vienna, flo.

OK, following problem: i always triggered my sigma flash unit with a multiblitz

infrared unit, which was connected to the camera. my thought was that either i

can trigger a second flash (in this case the speedlight) with the flash of the

first or by the infrared unit itself. Or that i can trigger the speedlight with

the infrared unit and the second (in this case the sigma) by flash/infrared. but

none of it works, i only trigger the sigma.

 

i changed the settings of the sigma to C1 and now none of them works any longer.

do you have any experience on this problem? or suggestions how to solve it?

thanks in advance, fr.

 

or in short:

 

not working settings:

 

1: sigma: C0 SL / speedlight C1 A - sigma works, speedlight doesnt.

 

2: sigma: C1 SL / speedlight C1 A - none works

 

working settings wanted.

is, that ones photos don't get visible without good ratings. if you have one 3/3 rating, you can forget about showing up within the top 100 photos, unless you have 5 7/7s. so I don't bother about being rated badly really not at all, I bother about not getting much "coverage". However, in a similar discussion one fellow user was proposing a personal filter. E.g. if someones average rating was 6/6 a 6/6 rating on a picture would be counted as average. if another users average rating was 3/3 a 3/3 rate would also be counted as an average rating for this particular user. for me this would mean a 5/5 would be above, a 3/3 rating would be below average. I'm not a computer scientist, but I guess this couldn't be too hard to implie.

hm you all confuse me... i always thought Canon might have added this noise artificially (you know to remind the newies in digitalphotg on the good old days... and this didnt seem to be that unlikely, brands do this quite often; the fact that there was no such sound on a 10D comfirmed me in this view) However, this is not a reason for throwing it in the nearest garbage bin, because apart from that (well and other minor flaws) I like it alot. have a nice evening.

Thanks for the answers...

of course i know there has to be a sound but there is a difference between the "clack" on a eg. 10D or 1Ds (which I find pretty natural) and a "zeeeep" on my 350D. and im pretty sure that this sound is artificially added, because there is no film to transport. ;-)

This might sound a bit weird, but after working for nearly a year with my eos

350d i cant stand that ridicolous sound any longer. Owners of this camera might

know what I'm referring to: the film transport like noise the 350d makes after

having taken a shot. The problem is when you shot in very calm places, this

noise is simply disturbing. So my question is: is there a "soft" way to get rid

of it? (e.g. firmware uptate) and if so, can you provide a link?

thank you for your answer - where do i get this HDR? is it a PS plugin? do i have to pay for it?

this is probably an easy to answer question for all landscape photographers here

on pn, but not for me:

lets assume i have one RAW file, that consists of sky and fields and some

flowers in the foreground. i am able to make 2 conversions, one that has a good

sky color, one with a good color on the flower and the foreground. how do i

paste these two, without spending hours in front of the computerscreen? which

layer setting should i use (after darken or lighten will not work)

please help me,

florian rainer

sorry for the late answer guys, but i just got up... to be honest, i dont know what you mean by short crossing; yes i think everything is linked properly, and i thought, maybe i have the wrong settings on my cam. but this doesnt seem to be the case. maybe the guys in the camera store sold sth that doesnt work... to bad i need it today.

OK, this is the problem: i have a sigma 500 DG Super flash unit and a

canon eos 350 body. tomorrow i need to do some shots with the flash

externalized, connected to the camera body by cable. i tried different

settings, but the flash never fired. maybe someone out there has

experience with this problem and can tell me the camera and flash

setting it takes to work. Thanks for all your answers,

best regards

florian rainer

Hi guys and girls,

3 questions, all about lenses for my eos 350:

 

1. Does anyone have experiences with both the SIGMA AF 18-200 3.5 -

6.3 DC and the TAMRON 18-200 3.5 - 6.3 XR... which is better? i tend

to buy the sigma cause it has won this EISA award, but as a critical

customer... you know.

 

2. if i buy one of these, do i still need my kit lens, the canon EF 18-55?

 

3. SIGMA 28 1,8 or CANON 28 1,8? is the Canon worth the extra money?

 

Thanks for your enlightening answers, i really need some advice.