nickbreedlove

Thanks everyone for your thoughtful and complete answers! I'd never encountered this problem before and wasn't sure if the camera was about to break or what was going on. I appreciate all your help!

Nick

Hi All,

I was shooting in a gym today. Had my 50/1.4 on the camera, shooting tennis under sodium vapor lighting. I shot

several action sequences and they all turned out with this red halo moving through each image almost like when

the shutter is going back or the rear curtain sync is failing to sync. There was no flash. Shot at 50mm/f 1.4,

1/640 of a second at ISO 1600.

All my shots have this weird redness to them in places, even using my 85 1.8 too. Can anyone explain this, as

most of my shots from the paid shoot today seem ruined.

Here's what it is doing: http://www.wncimages.com/temp/IMG_6207.jpg

Thanks

Nick

Hi all,

I already had a 580EX and wanted more studio type lighting for portraits on

location without having to haul lighting gear around with battery packs and/or

AC power. A friend recommended to get the ST-E2 and another 580EX flash. I

bought both those, two on flash diffuses (Gary Fong WhaleTail) and the flashes

are mounted on swivel-mount brackets on top of a Photoflex 2212 light stand (so

they can be elevated rather than using the supplied stand).

I'm just really needing a guide to get started to using these effectively. I

tried to do a portrait and it's not even worth posting to show my mishaps with

the setup. I'm using a 5D and a 24-105L.

Do both flashes need to be in slave mode and the ratio off on the ST-E2? If

anyone knows of a good guide with samples, and/or examples of using a two flash

setup with the ST-E2 it'd be greatly appreciated--I'm a quick learner.

Thanks in advance,

Nick

hi all-

managed to mishandle my 30D today and let it scuff a rock...not hard, but hard

enough to go through the thin coat of black on the camera body down to the shiny

silvery-looking metal. just wondering what the best course of action is to

protect it from corrosions, etc...i was initially just going to put a sharpie

marker on it, then decided someone may have a more sound idea on how to make

sure it's sealed properly.

thanks in advance-

nick

They're two different monitors (one on a laptop and the other connected to a computer), so I can't use two video cards.

They're both set at 2.2 gamma-- 1.8 used to be exclusively for Mac's, but from all the color management articles I've read, they've standardized to 2.2 for all now.

The MacBook matches perfectly...I use the ICC profile for the printer/paper.

I've never tried to print from the other machine though (one is a home machine and one is a work machine...I mainly do all my editing at home, come to work--the newspaper--and find out I have to adjust the heck out of pics to get them to look right again.) The colors are usually right, its just not as bright.

Hi All,

I've got a MacBook and a G5 with a Sony SDM-S94 LCD monitor. Both were

calibrated to 2.2 gamma, same color temp-6500, etc using a Spyder2 Pro.

My photoshop color settings are for "North America General Purpose 2" on both

machines with no modifications made. I open an image on the MacBook and the

image appears perfect, well balanced, etc. I open the same image on the G5 with

the Sony monitor and it is so dark I have to use levels just to get it even

close to looking like the MacBook.

I realize that the MacBook screen tilts and its possible to see it from a

different angle which may make it look lighter or darker, but I'm comparing the

images with the screen at 90 degrees, no tilt.

I can't figure out what's going on and its about to drive me crazy.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Nick

Hi,

I'm responsible for the graphics/photography/design for a four color (CMYK)

magazine later this summer.

The company I work for published the first edition of the magazine last year. It

looked great, good first try. The color wasn't exactly as expected.

I've been doing photography for a number of years now, and am used to working in

RGB mainly for print and web.

I've got a calibrated workflow with my monitor profiled and a printer profile also.

I asked the magazine company if they had a workflow to suggest for conversion

from RGB to CMYK. They simply suggested Image--Mode--CMYK in Photoshop, which

from past experience, doesn't work the best. The images appear muddy, which is

expected. However, I've seen other magazines where the color just snaps off the

page at you and is beautiful and undiluted.

I understand color gamut, that CMYK is a much more limited palette than RGB.

Usually what I do is pump up the black in levels after conversion, adjust the

hues and saturations. I get pretty decent results.

I'm just wondering if anyone out there has a Good, Solid workflow that gives

them consistently good results for conversion from RGB to CMYK.

Any help is appreciated.

I don't mind paying for plugins for photoshop if they can seriously do a good

job at conversion.

Thanks in advance-

Nick

Hi All,

Just curious, I know that I'll get the proveribial "Why would you consider that"

with this question, but I'm just curious...

I'm buying a 5D and I'm wondering how the Sigma 24-70 2.8 would compare with the

Canon 24-105 f/4 L IS lens. I know the 24-70 2.8 is sharp on my 30D, but I

figure that might just be the crop factor and me getting the sweet spot of the

lens. Would it really be worth the extra $700+ for the Canon lens and the 30

some odd mm in focal length. I don't know that I'll use the extra focal

length...I just want a quality lens and don't want to have to spend more than I

have to, because the 5D even with rebate is stretching me enough, financially,

as is.

Thanks

Nick

Does anyone know where or how I can buy/make a mask to scan 110 film (16mm) on

my Epson 4990?

Thanks in advance!

Nick

They were two different bodies--one was a 20D and one was a 30D.

The lenses and bodies came from different places. The 10-22 came from Amazon, the 17-85 and both the bodies from B&H.

Bob-

Maybe I've just had two bad Canon bodies then. Blah. That'd be sad. They have both worked fine with my other lenses, a 28-135 USM IS, 50 1.4, & 70-200 2.8.

Who knows....

I'm just curious how many people have had trouble with the EF-S lenses?

I have a 20D & a 30D.

A little less than a year ago, I bought the EF-S 10-22. I got flashing '00's on

my display where my fstop should be. The camera won't focus using the lens,

etc...the camera shuts off. I send it back. Don't bother with getting it

replaced. I figure piece of junk.

A year later I'm using my 30D and decide to get the EF-S 17-85 USM IS lens.

Throw that sucker on my 30D and get the same thing, then an Error 99. My camera

firmware is up-to-date.

Have I just been one of the very few people that have gotten two bad Canon

lenses in a row, or is this a common thing with EF-S lenses?

Nick

Hi,

I know that B&H sometimes sells model release contracts, etc. Does anywhere have a really

nice 'bulletproof' wedding contract?

Thanks

Nick

Hi All,

I'm playin with my new Fuji S2 and a friend let me use an SB-28 to do

some flash photography. The manual for the S2 shows that the SB-28

will work with the camera, but after using it I have serious doubts.

Maybe it's just me not setting it properly but I was shooting some

portraits, from about 10 feet back with the 28-70/2.8 lens and the SB-

28 and the faces were so washed out they looked like a white sheet of

paper. So I knocked down the flash to a -1.0 which did a little to

fix the problem but not enough...it's majorly washing out every pic.

Is this just a problem using these two together, should I get an SB-

80 or an SB-50 or what?

Thanks in advance,

Nick

Hi All,

I'm trying to order Polaroid film for the Polaroid back for a Mamiya

RZ67, what kind would I order...btw I'm getting it from B&H if that

helps.

Thanks!

Nick

Hi,

I was researching model releases in regard to newspaper publications, specifically a

weekly newspaper. I've read several conflicting accounts of whether model releases

are required for shooting someone's picture for the newspaper. One book I read

suggested that if it was for a news article that verbal consent was enough or if it was

a crowd shot, releases aren't required. Then I read another book that said anyone

appearing in a newspaper should have a release on file. Another article suggested

that only people singled out of a crowd need releases. Then yet another suggested

that news story photos didn't require releases, but photos used for the advertising

section of the newspaper did (I realize stock photos do, but what about other pictures

in advertising sections of newspapers). I need a definitive answer on what requires a

release when it comes to newspaper. If anyone knows of a definitive article on this

subject, send the hyperlink...please.

Thanks in advance,

Nick

Hi All,

I have the EOS 10D with the Grip and the 550EX flash and I'd like to get a

right handed flash bracket but I have no idea where to start/go and what

brands are decent, to buy one. If you have any suggestions that'd be

great...I'll probably order from B&H if they have the item.

Thanks,

Nick

Hey All,

I just purchased the EOS 10D and I can't figure out how to turn the

LCD on while shooting, as a preview screen...this sounds elementary,

but I have searched the manual a couple times now and am feeling

like an idiot...please help

Thanks,

Nick

Hey All,

I got a Sony F717 and I'm looking to buy an external flash to put on the hot

shoe and I was wondering what flashes are compatible with it. Sony makes

two models, which both sit on the hot shoe and plug into the accessory port

on the camera. I've read on dpreview that they tested it with the 550EX but I

also read of other people having problems with that flash and the F717. Are

there any that are known to work with the F717, like a list somewhere

compiled of compatibility or any that you guys know?

Thanks in Advance!

Nick

hey all,

i work at a photo lab and my boss and i have been back and

forth at each other for about a week now.... He's been arguing

with me about which file format is the highest quality to store an

image at. I told him that a TIFF (Tag/Tagged Image File Format)

was the highest quality file format and he keeps telling me that a

BMP (bitmap file) is the highest quality. I'm going crazy

continually debating this with him...maybe I'm completly

wrong...but I'm wondering which is it a bmp or tiff?

Thanks,

Nick

hi all,

i was reading some product literature on the elan 7e and it said

that it will sync up to 1/4000 of a second with the 420ex flash

from canon. i was wondering if the 7e is capable of syncing that

high with other canon flash models such as the 540ez or the

550ex.

thanks in advance

nick

What type of special filter would filter out only visible light or is

there even one?