daveparsons

I just printed a 24 inch x 97 inch gallery wrap on Epson Canvas on my Epson 9900. It was 20 RAW mages from a 5d mark II stitched to

form approx 130 MPix final image after cropping. Great care was taken capturing the image, tripod, lense selection, iso, shutter speed,

pano head etc ... Processed in lightroom 4 after stitching in Auto Pano Pro, the finished wrap hangs in the customers office and is

stunning. The detail is amazing ... Taken of Austin Texas at night, from around 1/4 mile away, you can see maybe 1000 office and

apartment windows and the lights hanging from the ceiling inside many of them, you can see power cables spanning between electric

poles easily and read sharp neon signs over a mile away ... You can see individual leaves on trees a half mile away and blades of grass

in the foreground.

 

My point is that I don't think it matters whether a landscape is shot on a large field camera on film at f64... On a point and shoot and stitched, a canon, a Nikon or a iPhone .... What matters is the end result .. the care taken and the attention to detail.

 

There is no shortcut to a great picture whatever technique or equipment is used ... You have to do the work ... As with everything worthwhile of course !

<p>Sounds to me like the image is testing posters' monitor calibration ! I cannot see any banding at all .. the image is fine ... what we are hearing in this discussion is the difference between monitors .. not the image ..</p>

As your develop your skills taking into account all the good advice above and when you have time look up "hyperfocal

distance" .. <a href=http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html>here is a good place to look</a>

<p>

Very often, with landscapes, you may want both infinity and an object closer to the camera in focus at the same

time. I printed myself a small table for all the lenses that I have from the above site.

<p>

It will enable you to set the focus distance manually on your lens, for a given aperture and focal length, so that as

much as possible is in focus, including the horizon.

<p>

This makes for those great shots with an interesting object in the foreground and the horizon still in focus ..

<p>

I wouldn't go much smaller than about f11 or f16 though with a 35mm format camera, since this will start to cause a

softening of the image again due to a problem called diffraction.

<p>

I often use the following (although as stated, every situation is different)

<p>

1) Tripod

2) Cable release

3) Lock mirror up (requires two pushes of shutter release on Canon)

4) Polarizing filter (rotate for darkest sky)

5) f5.6 - f16 (don't go smaller than f16)

6) Wide angle lens .. I *love* my new 16-35 2.8 L

7) Set hyperfocal distance (focus distance) depending on aperture and focal length (zoom)

8) I like to set initial exposure and color balance using an Expodisc

<p>

This is only 20% of taking a good picture, the rest, as they say is up to you !

<p>

Enjoy !

How about holding it against, say, the smooth casing of a small high speed power tool (like a dremel) or a food blender / grinder.

 

Light pressure against something like this to just transfer a liitle of the vibration to the camera body maybe through your hand to cushon ... hold the camera in different orientations if it doesn't work ... should provide some nice high frequency but gentle vibration to help shake off the dust .... I've never tried this, just an idea .. at your own risk I'm afraid ...

 

I love my G3 as well ..

Tom, your English is fine ...

 

I'm English and had no problems understanding anything you wrote.

 

Best of luck with your choices ...