heider

<p>I was always intermediated by studio lighting setup. I feel that now is the right time for me to do it. In the past I have done architectural, street, landscape, and infrared photography. Now it’s time to learn portrait photography. Every portrait I have done so far was naturally lit with a golden reflector occasionally. I want to move into a more proper setup, and start getting some consistent results.<br>

The main hope is that within few years from now I will be shooting some quality portraits, I hope to have some really high end shots in my portfolio by then. The good news is that I am NOT doing this for money, it’s my passion. And so I will be more concerned about getting the best shots possible and not worry too much about the “number” of clients. Quality is way too important for me at this point, money is not. In fact I am not going to charge my first few clients anything at all.<br>

Also I will be doing wedding, children, and social/ corporate events photography. Needless to say that I will be doing head shots as well as full body shots and 4-10 people group shots. <br /><br /><br />Initially, my first studio is going to be in the basement. I know, not the most faltering space to start with, especially with the low ceiling (230 cm. 7ft7in only), which means that I have many limitations. However, I will be shooting on locations (a client’s home, the outdoors, or corporate events). So portability is important too. The budget for this project is around $1500 at this point. And that is ONLY for the lighting kit.<br /><br /><br /><strong>I thought I should list my gear so you have an idea</strong><br /><em>Canon 7D, converted infrared Canon 450D 665nm, Canon 350D</em><br /><em>24-70mm f2.8L, 85mm f1.8, 50mm f1.8, 15mm f2.8 FE, and the Kit lens</em><br /><em>430EXII Strobe</em><br /><br /><br />I am looking at many starters lighting kits, I would like to get one that I could still be using few years from now, so I don’t want to end up with 5 strobes, 4 soft boxes and 3 umbrellas 5 years from now. It should be powerful, versatile, durable, consistent and reliable. Also it should be expandable, so I can use more lighting modifiers later on as I grow. A gear that would last for 4-5 years is perfect at this point.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>I am thinking Elinchrom vs. Bowens. What do you think of this?<br>

<strong>Option 1: Elinchrom BX 500/500Ri Basic Kit:</strong><br />2x BX 500Ri Head, Transmitter, 2x Large Stands, 2x Softboxes, 1x Kit Bag, 1x Stand Bag<br>

<strong>Option 2: BOWENS GEMINI 500/500 PRO KIT</strong><br />2x Gemini PRO 500Ws Monolights, 1x of 23.5" x 31" Softbox, 1x 35" Silver/White Umbrella, 1x 120 degree Wide-Angle Umbrella Reflector,2 of Lighting Support Stand, 1x Trolley Case, 1x of Sync Lead.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Thanks for your help,<br />Heider </p>

 

<p>I was always intermediated by studio lighting setup. I feel that now is the right time for me to do it. In the past I have done architectural, street, landscape, and infrared photography. Now it’s time to learn portrait photography. Every portrait I have done so far was naturally lit with a golden reflector occasionally. I want to move into a more proper setup, and start getting some consistent results.</p>

<p>The main hope is that within few years from now I will be shooting some quality portraits, I hope to have some really high end shots in my portfolio by then. The good news is that I am NOT doing this for money, it’s my passion. And so I will be more concerned about getting the best shots possible and not worry too much about the “number” of clients. Quality is way too important for me at this point, money is not. In fact I am not going to charge my first few clients anything at all.</p>

<p>Also I will be doing wedding, children, and social/ corporate events photography. Needless to say that I will be doing head shots as well as full body shots and 4-10 people group shots. <br>

<br /><br>

Initially, my first studio is going to be in the basement. I know, not the most faltering space to start with, especially with the low ceiling (230 cm. 7ft7in only), which means that I have many limitations. However, I will be shooting on locations (a client’s home, the outdoors, or corporate events). So portability is important too. The budget for this project is around $1500 at this point. And that is ONLY for the lighting kit.<br>

<br /><br>

<strong>I thought I should list my gear so you have an idea</strong><br>

<em>Canon 7D, converted infrared Canon 450D 665nm, Canon 350D</em><br>

<em>24-70mm f2.8L, 85mm f1.8, 50mm f1.8, 15mm f2.8 FE, and the Kit lens</em><br>

<em>430EXII Strobe</em><br>

<br /><br>

I am looking at many starters lighting kits, I would like to get one that I could still be using few years from now, so I don’t want to end up with 5 strobes, 4 soft boxes and 3 umbrellas 5 years from now. It should be powerful, versatile, durable, consistent and reliable. Also it should be expandable, so I can use more lighting modifiers later on as I grow. A gear that would last for 4-5 years is perfect at this point.</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>I am thinking Elinchrom vs. Bowens. What do you think of this? </p>

<p><strong>Option 1: Elinchrom BX 500/500Ri Basic Kit:</strong><br>

2x BX 500Ri Head, Transmitter, 2x Large Stands, 2x Softboxes, 1x Kit Bag, 1x Stand Bag</p>

<p><strong>Option 2: BOWENS GEMINI 500/500 PRO KIT</strong><br>

2x Gemini PRO 500Ws Monolights, 1x of 23.5" x 31" Softbox, 1x 35" Silver/White Umbrella, 1x 120 degree Wide-Angle Umbrella Reflector,2 of Lighting Support Stand, 1x Trolley Case, 1x of Sync Lead.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Thanks for your help,<br>

Heider <br /><br /><br /><br /> <br />¬¬</p>

<p>Alex and Clay, thank you both for your input and time, I really appreciate it.<br>

Alex, I enjoyed reading your post and looking at your photo gallery, some really wonderful photos. <br>

Clay, being a member of the RASC is surly a very good idea. Thanks for the advice.<br>

I need to do a thorough and thoughtful research before buying a telescope, I will try to scour the internet and learn the basics of astrophotography. I will not let the complexity of this hobby discourage me. So its great that you guys have showed me a good place to start from, for a beginner, the sites that you have recommended are very helpful. Thank you so much guys.<br>

Happy Holidays </p>

<p>Matthew, Thank you so much, this really helped a lot.</p>

<p>Knowing that my budget is "way too low" is very important, I don't want to buy a $600 Telescope to store in the basement. Its good to know I may need a guiding system as well.</p>

<p>I think, light pollution is going to be an issue. I live in Toronto, and the nearest dark-sky park is 3 hours drive from where I live. I have seen the Milkey Way with my naked eye back in 1991 for a whole month, I cant express with world how beautiful it was.</p>

<p>I know you can use filters to cut some of that pollution, and I also know that these can be very expensive and the have their limitation. I thought that converting the camera will help to reduce the effect of light pollution. </p>

<p>A camera "piggy backed" onto a telescope is indeed a very good idea. </p>

<p>I will do my research, I usually do, and thank you for reminding me that it is extremely difficult achieve good results without practice and hard work. </p>

<p>Thank you so much and have a good one. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Dan, thank you so much for your comment. I appreciate it.<br /> <br />Bob, maybe you are right, good point here; High end under $800 might be difficult to achieve.</p>

<p>The idea behind this project is to get some good quality photos, and if $800 is not enough then I would do my research to see how much would a "decent" telescope cost, maybe I would better save the money and get it later on.<br /> Let me refer to this beautiful photo by Paschalis Bartzoudis as a visual example to what I want to achieve. To me this is a very good photo.<br>

<br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10866698-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="453" /><br>

I don't know how much money should I spend to get this result, and I know it's very complicated for beginners to understand, there are many factors that affects quality here, and I am sure I don't understand the full extent of this subject.<br>

<br /> But sure, every thought is going to be a good helpful though, so thank you so much for your time and consideration.</p>

<p>I am embarking upon a new adventure; astrophotography. I need your help to make some - hopefully informed –choices, manly involving buying a telescope. </p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Note: You can skip to the last paragraph if you want to get to my questions, otherwise, carry on. </p>

</blockquote>

<p>Mainly I will be shooting two kind of astrophotography:<br>

1-Scenic wide-angle shots such as <a href="../photo/11366780">this</a> brilliant photo by Chris VenHaus<br>

2-Deep Sky astrophotography of star clusters, nebulae and galaxies such as<a href="../photo/10866698&size=lg"> this</a> beautiful photo by Paschalis Bartzoudis.<br /><br />I have a Canon Digital Rebel XT 350D that’s been collecting dust for over a year now, I am willing to convert it to a full spectrum camera. (I may do the conversion myself to save money). I wish I could afford a used Canon 20Da, but couldn’t find anything in local stores and online.<br>

<br />For the scenic shots I am hoping that I can use some of my lenses (10-22mm f3.5, 24-70mm- f2.8L, 15mm Fish Eye 2.8, 50mm f1.4, 85mm f1.8). <br>

<br />For the Deep Sky photos I am willing to buy a telescope, probably a motorized one for star tracking. Now for deep sky astrophotography I am really looking for high end results, NOT Hubble photos, but nothing mediocre. I will be shooting Deep Sky mostly in my backyard.<br>

<br />I haven’t fixed my budget yet, but I am hoping not to exceed the 800$ margin for the whole project. <br />So here is what I am going to buy:<br>

1- Canon clear hot mirror replacement filter for 180$ form lifepixel.com. If you have any better ideas please do share it with me.<br>

2- I will convert the 350D myself; hopefully I will not fry, brake, or lose any parts. If you think that’s a stupid thing to attempt please stop me.<br>

3- A T mount and an adapter that goes into the focuser on the telescope. About 50$<br>

4- A decent telescope capable of star tracking. 400-600$ </p>

<blockquote>

<p><strong>Here are my questions:</strong><br>

1- What telescope would you recommend? Let’s say I have a 400 to 600$ budget for that. My understanding is that for deep sky I need a telescope with greater light-gathering ability i.e a big aperture, maybe 4.5″ to 6″ in diameter. And I think if I am going to do long exposures then a motorized telescope is a must to compensate for movement. Also what focal length would you recommend? </p>

<p>2- How hindering would it be to use a non-live view camera like the 350D for astrophotography, I am mainly concerned about focusing. </p>

<p>3- Do you think I can use the unconverted 7D for astrophotography?</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Thank you for your time, Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and Happy Holidays<br>

Heider <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p>

If you shoot sports then u need a fast and relaiable AF system plus a high fps, I don't think the 60d is the best camera

for sports, not that will not do the job or anything, but I think it's not designed to do that. Good luck.

Just a thought, the price of the 60d here in Canada is about 1100CAD+ 300CAD for the BGE9 + 100CAD for the extra

battery =1500 CAD totally ,the 7d is at 1600CAD. You see where I am going. It is wiser I thing to get the 7d if you are

adding all of those. I have used a bg for the 350d and it was super useful. Then on the 7d it was not nessasory

because the 7d was big enough for me. Good luck

I have no idea what might be the problem, I am not sure but try resetting your camera to factory defaults , connect you

camera to your pc and try shooting from your pc. Update your firmware to the latest version from canons website. Try

saving in raw and jpg and compare the results. It might be a problem with the cf contacts, I don't know! It's  very

difficult to damage the sensor without touching it, that's why I have never cleaned my sensors, I always use ps to fix

the photos. Shoot without cf and set your camera preview to the maximum and check the results.

I do landscape and architecture and live view is very useful on a tripod for correct metering and sharp foucusing.

Someone upgrading from 300d, 350d, or 400d and not willing to spend too much money. Interms of image quality I

think the 550d, the 60d and the 7d is the same camera. The extra features of the 7d is it's strongest point, the 550d

has great value for money. The 60d is in-between and it's for those who wants some extra features but are on a

budget. It would have been very exciting to see the 60d built around a magnesium alloy body, with 24mp sensor, 8fps.

But then again who is going to buy the one year old 7d? Camera specs is driven by the market more than anything

eles. Canon today has the whole range covered, just like many other manufacturers. 1000d, 550d entry level. 60d and

7d semi pro and 5d mk2 and 1d mk4 pro. I am so happy that we live in a world were there is a new camera every

year and with such a wide spectrum to choose from. Actualy if you are a first time dslr buyer you would appreciate

having the option to buy the 60d. My friend upgraded from the 450d to the 60d mainly because he wanted a dslr with

full hd video that fits in his hands!

<p>I bought one, I hope its good. </p>

Do you really recomend it?Is it really convincing? I am willing to buy one. I hope it's not a scam. If the quality is good

and the finish in not just cheap plastic then I will buy it. Can you post a photo of yours I would love to see some

images other than then ones on their website. Waiting for your post.

<p>Here is an HDRI Panorama stitched with PTGui from 144 frames ( 48 bracketed frames) It was shot handheld because they wouldn't allow tripods in St. Sofia. I used the 15mm f2.8 fisheye mounted on the 350D @ 400ISO, f2.8 and 1/20Sec. It was really dark and very challenging . All I am saying is that with PTGui you don't need to be very accurate. Regards<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9061174-lg.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="821" /></p>

I use PTGui and this beautiful software is more than capable of compensating

for parallax and other distirsions. I was able to shoot 360x360 hand held

panoramas with the 350d and 15mm f2.8 fish eye and was more than happy

with the result. So many people spend much on panoramic heads, even

automated ones, I prefere to spend the money on a good L lens. I always

use an ordinary tripod, but sometimes when I can't I will just go a head and

shoot handheld knowing that PTGui is going to take care of that.

Regards

Judging colors on a monitor is not a very scientific way indeed. May monitors are not well calibrated and they all show

some color shifting. Printing on the other hand is not a scientific way eather. I have used the 350d, the 1000d, the 7d,

the 5d and the 5dmk2 and they all were fine . I think you should start calibrating your monitor and then make prints to

compare. The prints will be darker, it's a ok way to tell whether your monitor is displaying colors accurately or not. If

you need to have a more scientific approach then you need a hardware to do that. But mostly it's not your canon, but

your monitor. Good luck

<blockquote>

<p>Those who bought version <em>one</em> of many of the other Canon lenses, both L and gone-to-L, now wish they had waited to get get Mark II.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I think thats always the case, you buy a 2010 car and in 2012 when the new models have arrived you wish that you have waited 2 more years and enjoy the new features! Does that mean that you shouldn't have bought the 2010 model? </p>

<blockquote>

<p>Spend your money on good glass, it never gets old. </p>

</blockquote>

<p>Oh, sorry. And by "never" I meant the 5-10 years life span, not forever for sure! Sorry for my misleading wording.<br>

But i think the point is still valid:Think good lighting first, then good glass, then good body. Please lets not over intellectualize things. I hope we all agree that good glass comes first.<br>

I know people using the 7D with the 18-55 lS lens from their old bodies! I know people upgraded from the 350 to the 450 to the 500 to the 50D!, whats the point? Just read how many post are there here on PN of people upgrading from the 50 or 550D to the 7D. I really don't see the point. <br>

I upgraded to the 7D from the 350D and if you check my portfolio you won't even be able to tell the differences, why? because I used good glass on both bodies and I knew what I was doing. And if you ask me can you get a good photo from the 350D today I would say yes, because I know the rebel and I know how it performs. it is a very serious and respectable camera. The 7D made my life easer with its extra features, but it did not improve my photographic skills, and did not improve on my image quality tendentiously. It had a psychological effect on me, It just made me more confident and gave me the look and feel of a pro. Well, you can dress like a king, but you will never be one. In photography you are most probably luckier, you can have professional photos from a cheap body if you know what you are doing.<br>

The 500D is very young to retire and has great features, you don't need a back up camera if you own the 7D, once you shoot with the 7D you wont go back to the rebel. if you buy the 7D the sell your 500D<br>

It would be wiser to spend the money on lenses. Todays technology is going to be outdated after 10 years, no doubt about that, but lenses has longer life spans than bodies, most L lenses has 10 years life span or so.<br>

The 24-70 f 2.8 was introduced in 2002, still haven't been replaced yet, and I have used it since 2006 and it still delivers an outstanding quality, and always will, the 350D which was introduced in 2005 is a dinosaur compared to todays technology. But it is still capable of delivering good quality images . <br>

I know a very creative photographer who still uses her 20D after all those years because she thinks - and i agree with her - that unless you upgrade to a full frame camera the experience is pretty much the same, a side from few more bells and whistles. <br>

The 75-300IS cant be compared to the 70-200 f2.8 or the 17-40 f4. These are different animals. Cheap lenses are built to be replaced, manufacturers want you to upgrade to the next thing, thats how they make money. The only smart thing to do about it is to make fewer and bolder upgrades.I always think big jumps.<br>

Its up to you what you do with your money. I wish you best luck. <br>

Regards </p>

 

You have a very good camera that is very young to retire. Selling the t1i with the lenses might get you 700$ or so. But

then if you are upgrading to the 7d plus a good glass: That's an extra $2500. If I were you I would spend my money on

good lenses like the 17-40,24-70, 24-105, 70-200, 100-400. Spend your money on good glass, it never gets old, a

wise person would upgrade the body every 5 to 7 years or so. There is not much difference between the T1i and the

7d intearms of image quality. You will get a much tougher body, more af points and a much faster fps. But if you don't

have a good glass that doesn't mean anything . If I were you I would keep my rebel and get these lenses 17-40, 24-

105 and the 100-400. And upgrade my body when the 7dmk2 or the 5dmk3 are released.

Check the mtf charts for the 24-70 f2.8 and compare it to other l lenses of the same range. Mtf curves is a scientific

way of judging sharpness. Built quality is great on all L lenses. I have used the 24-70 with the 7d and the 5d and it

performed very well. Both the 24-70 and the 24-105 are great lenses that you are missing in your range. I would

spend the money traviling. Regards

Have you tried using a diffrent lens on your body? Also try to cearfuly clean the lens contacts. There is a littel chance

it may help, but just try it. I agree with the guys, most probably it's an element that's coausing this problem. Good luck

I have both the 7d and the 85 1.8. This is really a very good combo for

portrats. The other lenses aren't that much . I have owened some sigmas

before and they were my worst lenses ever. Save your money for some

decent glass. Proffoonals say light, glass , body. If you spend x on your body

you should spend 3x on your glass . Save your money and later on get some

decent ones. Here is what I think is a good combo with the 7d

8-15 f4 fisheye, 24-70 f2.8, 85 f1.8, 70-200 f2.8

It might take you years plus an arm and a leg to build your fleet. But that's

much better than accumulating cheep glass that won't perform. You spent

2000 on your body. You should spend some 6000 on your lenses . Regards

I don't believe there's going to be any new ff camera released from canon this year. The 5d mk2 is a great ff camera

that is difficult to replace. A wise person would upgrade every 5 or 7 years because there are no big leaps in the

general sence. However I was taking to a person who I trust from a reputed dealer in Canada and he said that they

heard that the 5d mk3 is going to be released in spt of 2011

You 50d is a great camera and maybe is early to upgrade now. However Both the 60d and 7d are great too. The 7d is more suiteable for sports (19 AF points + 8fps ). I think image quality is the same.

The 7d has a better build quality than the 60d if you care about build quality. The 60d has a nice articulated LCD. The

60d is more rebel like now. The 60d body is smaller than your 50d and it's not metal anymore. The 7d features a dual

digic4 processor which makes it faster. The 7d fewvinder has 100% coverage. The 60d features 5.3 fps slower than

your 50d. Your 50d is a great camera and unless you really need the vedio then I would wait for the 7d mk2. If you

sell your 50d then that's a different story. Regards

<p>Hi, I am looking for an iPhone App that lets me geo-tag photos from my 7D. I have seen one on DigitalRev TV called gps stone, but I cant find it in App store, may be its banned now. A software is used to add the geo data to the photo based on the time the photo was taken. I use winXP and winVista. Kind Regards. </p>

<p>Thank you guys, I applicate it.<br>

Frank, Thats a good idea indeed. Regards <br>

Alan, thanks for the simple advise, well, I should have Googled it first :). Have a good one. <br>

Douglas, That is a wonderful park, a must see one. Thanks a lot. </p>