speed_trials

<p>Hi Leonard: are you still selling that bronica body? I emailed you but no reply. Maybe you will see this thread</p>

"shallow depth of field, good for portraiture" -- Isn't this the definition of medium format?

 

I think there are a lot of options for your price range, but you won't really know what you like until you use them for sometime. I personally would not handhold an RB67/RZ67 or shoot portraiture with a rangefinder but there are plenty of people who do. Whatever camera you pick, if you later decide its not for you, the reason will probably be ergonomics and not image quality....image quality is pretty much the same for all of them.

best thing about the L-508 vs newer versions is that the L-508 takes plain AA batteries.

I don't understand why people always talk about cropping to 8x10. Unless you are shooting an assignment with a

specific requirement, there is no reason that you have to crop your 6x6 negative down to 6x4.2 or your 6x7

negative to 5.6x7 to perfectly fill an 8x10 sheet. If you are an amateur doing this for fun, please be aware

that a lot of advise from former/current wedding/commercial photographers just does not apply to you.

 

If you enjoy composing square pictures. then get a 6x6 camera. If you enjoy composing rectangles then get a 645

or a 6x7. You will enjoy composing with the entire viewfinder much more than to some fraction of it.

I have owed a koni-omega and had problems with overlapping frames. It turned out that the problem was with how i was loading the film. I was aligning the "start arrow" on the film with the loading spool (which is how it works on bronica, hasselblad etc.). This turned out to be incorrect: you are supposed to align the "start arrow" to the take up spool. Once i did this, my frames were spaced perfectly. Hope this helps!

Yes the sq-ai is different....it will absolutely not fire without batteries. I thought perhaps the ertsi also

behaves the same way but from the manual i just read online, it appears it does not

Forget about the prism, the back, the lens and the speedgrip....the body will fire without any of these items so

remove them all to eliminate these as variables. Now the body will only fire if it is in multiple exposure mode

(as mentioned above), it will only fire if it has working batteries in it (since the shutter is electromagnetic)

and if it the ring around the shutter is in the unlocked position(as mentioned above). Remember to put it in

multiple exposure mode and THEN wind the crank to cock the shutter mechanism. Use the battery test button to

verify that the batteries are working and installed properly etc. If you have done all these things and it

doesn't fire then you are in a pickle because there is nothing else for you to set or do to make it fire...this

is everything