paul_ingram

<p>I shoot over 20,000 pics a year for the highschool kids, in JPG. Lightroom is great for me. My night stadium shots vary in color rendetion because of the HID lighting wave problems at 1/250. I want LR to "auto white balance" each frame, NOT sync with one adjusted frame, because of the variations of the original images. How do I get LR to do that in bulk, rather than me having to go frame-by-frame and click the "auto" under white balance?</p>

<p>Select All and Sync. That did it. Thanks.</p>

<p>In Lightroom for fast individual cropping of a large import (500 plus) I want all crops to be a particular ratio (4x6) as I go from image to image. (The original files are more of a 4x5 ratio. )  How do I lock in 4x6 on all images so I don't have to go to the pull down aspect menu for each file? </p>

<p >Last month I posted a question about bigger and more reliable storage for my growing files of event photos. One of the posts mentioned burlystorage.com. I ended up calling them (they answer the phone in Idaho) and having very informative discussions with Brian their PC guy (they also have a Mac guy.) I now have an array of five 1.5 terabyte drives in three volumes, with a very fast connection to my motherboard. I’m not a computer guy so Brian spent time with me on the phone setting up the drives. He also suggested a few back-up softwares to look at. He even returned a call when he was home sick. I have gotten rid of a desk full of external hard drives and am setting up redundant back-up routines. My computer is faster now with all those USB devices gone. Great company. </p>

<p >I have had an amazing day exchanging emails with Brian Adams of MacGurus & Burly Storage (from John Deerfield’s post above). VERY helpful with their devices, his analysis of my system, his experience in massive photo storage, etc. Many options. Makes me feel I can do this! </p>

<p>>Update< I called Dell and thier man in Calcutta told me the only HD they could add to my 4-year-old desktop was a rebuilt 400Gb. Nuts.</p>

<p>I may have overstated the slow-down issue. I have a lot of RAM and the PC works very well. The only thing that's a bit slow is the communication among external drives via all the USB connections. I added a Seagate "Free Agent" external drive and dragged a lot of photo files into it (via Lightroom) and within a few weeks it started making a grinding sound and is now very slow and unreliable. I just want to clean up the clutter and speed things up. I may look into a second internal HD. You guys are great.</p>

<p>I have a decent Dell desktop for my architect's practice and event photo hobby. I have added three external hard drives between 500G and 1T for thousands of photo files, organized with Lightroom. I think I need single massive huge storage because my PC is slowing down with all these external drives plugged in. Where do I start looking for big ole file storage options that will last me a while. It is a requirement that I access my photo archives often. Or should I try my first Apple for the photo side of my activities and in the process get a ton of storage? - Old and confused Paul</p>

<p>Yeah you did say that!</p>

<p >I received new Canon 300/2.8 lens last Friday hours before our high school homecoming game. Rains were in the forecast. I was determined to use it, with my 50D. I had a rig for hands-free umbrella by jamming the handle down into a camelback pack. Knew I had to back away from the action more than with my 70-200, but it became crazy. I had to shoot from the back of the end zone fences. The newspaper photographer got a big laugh. I soon moved to the roof of the press box, which I though would be a compromise but it is roughly the same angle as TV cameras at televised football games. No, that angle was no substitute for dramatic side line shots. But I could cover the whole field, not possible from the sidelines. These are photos for the kids and parents, so I hate to miss a critical far-corner shot. This lens was amazing. The speed and accuracy of the focus was amazing. Paired with the low-light capabilities of the 50D meant that even in the corners of the poorly-lit end-zones I could get something. The next morning I helped shoot a 5-mile run event over the old US 80 Mississippi River Bridge. I have a lot to learn about this lens. What an instrument! </p><div></div>

<p>The Canon 300/2.8 has just been ordered. The guys at RRS recommend their B2-Pro II monopod mount. Suggestions still welcomed.</p>

<p>Thanks. I would buy it today except that all the main online vendors are having a week's Succo holiday...</p>

<p>I am about to take the plung with a new Canon 300/2.8 IS, and wanted to get a new monopod to replace the one I lost. Then I started reading a gazillion posts and articles online and realize that monopod (and tripod) head options are varied and complex. I shoot indoor and outdoor sports and would like a recommendation for monopod and head (gimbal or ball or other) that is suitable for that lens with adequate support and freedom of panning movement (with some vertical swing). I just don't have time for hours of research and I am hundreds of miles from a store where I can shop in person. - Paul</p>

<p>I guess I provided too much information. I really wanted suggestions about an optimum performance/ price options for 300/2.8, and some of you responded accordingly. My question didn't mention budget. I have had a good month and am ready to invest, and don't necessarily want a compromise lens. I will continue my research. Thanks!</p>

<p >I shoot high school sports for the kids and the yearbook. In the bag, all Canon: 20D; 50D; 70-200 f2.8 IS; 24-70 f2.8; 100-400 slide zoom; EF 50mm 1:1.4; EFS 10-22 (just for fun) & 580EXII Speedlight. (Also both Canon extenders.) </p>

<p > </p>

<p >Favorite and most versatile combination is the 50D with the 70-200. I bought the 100-400 slide for daytime soccer but I don’t like the images or the handling (would rather crop from the 70-200 frames). </p>

<p > </p>

<p >I think I need to invest in a fixed 300mm f2.8 because of the results of what fixed length lenses I have borrowed. I don’t know of any zoom that will give me 300 at f2.8 with great results. Also with a fixed 300 my 1.4 extender would let me experiment with wildlife. Suggestions on my next lens? - Paul</p>

<p>New Joizee</p>

<p>A few weeks ago I foolishy tried to scoop up a rolling foul ball in a HS softball game and allowed my 20D with EF-S 10-22 lens to swing around and hit the ground. The lens exploded near the camera body, breaking in two pieces with metal rings rolling around and the electronics tape sheared. The glass elements were all intact in the front half, but there seemed to be a lot of messy breakage. Canon said to send it back, and after about ten days it is now being returned, repaired, for $105. This is a $650 lens. I would have thought the collection of parts would have been that much. If they actually repaired it for that price, well, Thanks, Canon!</p>

<p>I created a 3-color logo for a tee-shirt in CS3, using rasterized shape layers and a few fonts, and an intermediary to the printer says he needs an EPS file with vectors, but I am not getting information directly from the printer, and I know nothing of EPS and what is needed. The "Save As" options of EPS has several variables - ASCII, ASCII85, Binary... Transfer Function, Postscript Color Management, Vector Data, Image Interpolation.<br>

I checked several combinations of the above options using WAG (wild-ass guess) and saved under different file names...<br>

But does anyone know what a screen printing company needs to use my image?</p>

<p>I have a 20D and 40D and noticed last summer that the 40D was lousy at indoor focusing/ shooting. Fine outdoors (or high light levels.) Sent it to Canon and they did a few things and sent it back. I now have a pending warranty repair file open with Canon pending more indoor shooting problems - missing a lot of basketball layups. I find myself going back to the 20D for indoor shooting.</p>

I never said the 20D was achieving focus and the 40D was not. With the same lens and what I recall are the same

settings, the 20D shoots when I press the shutter button and the 40D seems like it is wanting something to get

right. I have been shooting hard for four years so I do have a feel for when something seems amiss. Having trouble

with M settings in the gym, I switched to P, with ISO at 800, pop-up flash and subject 8 feet away, lens being

focused manually or automatically, press the shutter release, and... nothing... nothing... nothing... then SHOOT.

The response above about the shutter release problem seems right.

40D acts like a point-and-shoot in that it doesn't seem ready to shoot when I press the, um, button. Works best in

full light, maybe green Auto mode. But at night at football games, on manual, even many daytime settings, it

responds about 30% of the time. Tried resetting camera defaults, cleaning lens contacts, various lenses, manual

focus vs auto. I have a 20D and lots of lenses so thru process of elimination I know it is the 40D and not a lens.

Thank goodness I have the 20D backup. I guess the response will be to send it back, but am curious if this is

common.

 

Paul

My 2.5 year old Canon 24-70 f2.8 L lens will no longer focus manually or automatically beyond about 20 feet. AF and

manual works normally inside of that range, but focusing beyond that to infinity simply doesn't work - stays soft.

This with either my 20D or 40D in any modes.

Oh I found that page with Google. That explains version 8 update over the previous. I asked what was updated with all the other versions 4-7.

I just realized I haven't updated my 40D firmware so I just went from ver 3 to 8 (current.) Is there a link to somewhere

that explains all the updates?

Canon 40D with 70-200 2.8 IS and 24-70 2.8; have been getting acceptable manual exposures at our basketball

games at ISO 3200, 1/320 @ f2.8 or ISO 1600, 1/250 @ f2.8. I also preset the white balance shift to B5 M5 to deal

with our HID lighting.

 

I am experimenting with lower ISO and my 580EXII flash because the newspaper guys always uses flash and get

sharp, saturated photos.

 

I have tried flash ETTL and M settings with various output levels, and am surprised at all the variations in exposure

from shot to shot, not to mention the camera seems to slow down firing with the flash on. I have it set for high-speed

flash (1/250) and I have an external power supply for the flash. With so many camera setting options and so many

flash unit settings, I would appreciate some advice on where to experiment on camera and flash settings to best

capture fast moving indoor sports with Canon EOS and Canon flash units, with the fewest amount of constant on-the-

fly manual setting changes.

 

And I have read all the manuals.