joe_bailey2

Thanks for the responses. I forgot to mention that my fill is on camera axis. The key of off to the side.

I know that light from the key and fill add together. I want to see if any

others here meter this way. I used to meter each light individually to establish

the ratios. Example: I'd set the Key at f11.0 and Fill at f8.0 metering each

light individually. My final reading with both lights on was always a 1/2 stop

brighter at f11.5. I used to have to move the lights an equal distance to get

back to my working aperture of f11.0.

 

Now (for this same ratio) I just set my Key at f8.5 and my fill at f5.6.5

(individually). The final reading is always f11.0 with both lights on. My

exposure appears to be correct. Does anyone else meter this way? Is this a

correct method? TIA

Thanks Ace. I tried the "Save for Web" option and selected Windows Standard Color and it's almost a perfect match with PS.

Thanks everyone. This is what I expected and wanted to confirm. My prints from WHCC always match Photoshop and not as they appear in the browser.

I've seen similar threads on this subject, but I am getting a slight color shift

to red when I "Save for Web". I shoot in RAW and use the Adobe RGB color space.

However, I do Convert to sRBG before saving for the web and I also embed the ICC

profile for sRGB. Attached is a screen shot of the a PS file in Adobe RGB

(left) and the same image in IE after converted and saved as sRGB (right). Does

anyone know why this is happening. I've read that IE (PC version) does not

honor embedded color profiles. When I open the sRGB jpg in PS, the colors look

fine.

Jason, I love my split screen/micro prism. You don't lose any of the focus points or functionality. Some cameras required installing a supplied shim, but mine didn't. It is spot on with the focusing and I did not have to adjust anything on the camera.

Thanks for the great explanation. I went ahead and ordered the book. It's starting to make a little more sense. I was confused when I assigned an RGB profile to an sRGB image. The colors looked more vibrant, which I liked. This probably could have been properly achieved by adjusting the image color saturation.

Thanks for the responses. I have been working in sRGB, but the colors never seemed to pop out. In Adobe RGB, the reds seem to be a little over saturated, but the colors are more vibrant. I do have a Canon i9900 printer which has worked great so far. I haven't tried printing in Adobe RGB yet. I think this color space stuff is starting to sink in. Please correct me if I am wrong:

 

PS working color space is my defalut space when no other profile is embedded.

 

If the image is in sRGB, assigning the Adobe RGB will show me the color gamut in that mode.

 

Converting to another color profile will try to retain the colors of the assigned profile.

The more I read about this subject, the more confused I get. I understand the

difference between Adobe RGB and sRGB, but am unsure of what needs to be set. My

monitor is calibrated with the Spyder2. My Canon 5D is set in RGB mode. I shoot

everything in RAW and from what I have read, this does not matter which mode the

camera is in. I use DPP for my RAW conversion. I want to work in Adobe RGB.

Should this color space in DPP be set to Adobe RGB? Should my Adobe PS working

spaces be set to RGB? As expected, I see a difference in color when I assign an

sRGB image to Adobe RGB. I use WHCC for my printing and they prefer sRGB

images. Do I make all of my image modifications in Adobe RGB then convert to

sRGB? Does converting as opposed to assigning retain most of the colors? Sorry

for the long post. Thanks.

I am using a Sekonic L358 meter. With the dome down, I measured and adjusted

my main at f/11, fill at f/8 and hair at f/8. Each light was measured by

itself with the others off. If I raise the dome, point at the camera and fire

all flashes, the reading is now f/13. Am I to set my camera to f/13? Is this

common for the total light reading to increase? If I want the final aperture

to be f/11, should I lower all the flash levels. Thanks.

Thanks for all the info. I actually just purchased a 1.4x for my 70-200 2.8L IS. I used the 2x example for the sake of even numbers. This will be going on my 5D, so there will not be any cropping factor.

I have read that 1/FL should be used for minimum shutter speed to

prevent camera shake blur. If I attach a 2x converter to my 200mm

lens, should my minimum shutter speed be at least 1/400 - or 1/500

(rounded to nearest speed). Also, how much should my IS help. I've

read about 3 stops, but does this mean I could go all the way down

to 1/60. Thanks.

Arlen,

Thanks for the info. Did you have to install the shim? I just ordered one and am looking forward to trying it out. I normally just use the center auto focus point and have had very good results. This should help with some of my macro photos.

Has anyone used the Brightscreen split image with microprism on the

Canon 5D? I don't know if Canon has any plans to make one. I just

ordered the Canon EE-S and EE-D screens, but would really prefer a

split prism screen.

Ralf,

This is the response I received from Nikon a few months ago:

"There are no plans at this time for support of the Windows XP x64 bit operating system."

 

I'm in the same boat and ended up having to configure my system to dual boot between XP and XP X64. Hopefully Nikon changes their position on this issue.

Thanks for all the responses. I do love the greater DOF control with my new DSLR. I also understand many of the technical aspects of what you are saying. Photography was my hobby then I was in my teens. I guess the main problem for me is that on newer lenses, they do not put DOF chart markings on the lenses. Maybe I'll just print out some charts at different focal lenghts and use these as a cheat sheet until I get more accustomed to my camera. What is a predictable result for many of you was a bit of a surprise for me. I didn't know that from a distance of 4 feet with a wide open aperture and 70mm FL, my DOF was so shallow. I'm looking forward to getting this control to work in my favor. Thanks again...

Here is an example of what I am referring to. This was my very first shot with this camera. This was taken with a FL of 70mm @ f4. The front of her face is in focus but it goes out of focus quickly. I realize my error now.<div></div>

Maybe I wasn't very clear with my question. I love my 5D and can't wait to get outdoors with better lighting to start shooting. I just wish there was an easier way to figure out what my DOF is. Even my old Pentax zoom lens had markings on the lens to show what would be in focus at any giver aperture. I mean, how does one know that when focusing on a subject at 7 feet, 50mm focal length, f11, that they will have a DOF of 5.5 - 9.6'. Does this just come with experience?

Thanks for the response, Giampi. I was using focal lengths of 50 and 70mm. After reviewing the charts, I only had a few inches of depth to work with at that distance. My daughter was in focus, but the family member behind her started to get fuzzy. I guess I am still used to the greater DOF with my P&S camera. I'll keep working at it.

Please forgive my newbie question. I recently upgraded from a Canon

G5 to a 5D with a 24-70 2.8L lens and a 550EX flash. Most of my

pictures have been of my 5 month old daughter and are taken indoors

with low light. These are typically taken at a distance of 5-7

feet. I am ending up with a very narrow DOF even when I use the

manual settings and bump the apperture up to 11. There aren't any

focal distance markings like what I used to rely on with my old.

film SLR. Is there some easy way of calculating/estimating my focal

distance without having to plug in numbers to an online DOF

calculator? The low light makes it difficult to use the DOF preview

button. Maybe I just need increase the distance between me and my

subject.

Thanks for the responses. We have a family Christmas party tomorrow, with Santa, and it's my first time out with this camera. I haven't had time to experiment properly with higher ISO settings. I was concerned when I set the camera to M, ISO 400, 100 and 5.6; the level meter in the view finder was flashing at -2. I wasn't sure if I had something adjusted incorrectly. I'm coming from a G5 Powershot and it's a learning experience. Thanks...

I am using a Canon 5D with a Canon EF 24-70L lens and a 550EX

flash. I am taking indoor photos with average room lighting at a

distance of 4-8 feet. The camera/flash default to a shutter speed

of 60 and f-stops between 2.8 and 4. This is giving me a very

narrow depth of field. I need some advice on how to increase my

depth of field. Do I compensate with the AEB and if so, does my

flash automatically adjust for the smaller aperture? What is the

best ISO setting to use in this situation? Thanks....

Thanks for the responses. I'll try that.

I have a Powershot G5 with a 550EX flash. Is there a way to fire

the flash for a light measurement with a Sekonic L-358 Flash Meter.

I'm a newbie to light meters and didn't see any info on this subject.

 

thanks,

Joe