peng

Hi, I have tried to save an image to jpeg2000 format. It seems loose all exif information. Any chance to save exif information in jpeg2000?

1: Yes

2:

60% taking photograph;

10% decision on what I need to do post-processing and how

30% post-processing

3: Processing

4:

A 80% - unsharp, and/or crop, and/or resize, and/or noise reduction if need for most pictures

B 20% - colour alteration, and/or curve adjustment, ... for hero images

C 0% - well more than 10 minutes? tha's a hard job :-)

It's great lense. I got this several weeks ago and I like it very much. I use it with my 20D and now it's one of my favourite lense. Here are some pictures I took during these days:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/png123/sets/72157594177858109/<div></div>

I am currently using 1GB SD card with A520. It never give me the problema. But it's not formated from A520. I usally format it from my PC. I share this card with dofferent camera but all images are there and can read from my pc card reader.

 

Try to re-format it from PC to see if it continou give you the problema. Anyway to understand if it's problem of Caemara or problema of the SD card, try to do the following:

 

- format it in PC, save some files into it and read it from other PC. If it's ok the Card should be OK. and Try to shoot some photo from other camera to see if it give you the problema. It should not give problema. Otherwise there is problema of the compatibility of the camera reader. Then try with your camera, if the problema is stil there, there is some issues with your camera card reader.

 

Hope it can help

Regards

Peng

From my understanding, Digital Photo Pro (DPP) handles the RAW image in different way from EOS Digital Software. The EOS Digital Software use the same mechanism to convert the raw image to jpeg like in camera engine. the DPP is more powerful and flexible (the latest versione is 2.0.3.7). DPP can produce very good result from raw images. Of course, the CS2 is very powerful tool which can provide you the maximum flexibility to manipulate the image (eiter raw, tiff, jpeg or other image format). The maximum flexibility means also the learning curve is complex. That's why there so many good books and guides on-line relate to how to use photoshop too I think :-)

For me, if you shoot in raw, you can stick with DPP for now, when you want to have maximum flixibilities to edit the image, go for CS2 or CS3 when it's out....

If you shoot in JPEG, the DPP is not good enough for the JPEG image I think...You may need to think the CS2 option if you want to edit the jpeg image...

The conslusion from that site:

 

D200 vs 20D:

- color, contrast and resolution: D200 better

- high iso noise: 20D better

 

D200 vs 5D:

- color, contrast, resolution, high iso noise: 5D better

I have the same doubt for several weeks. 70-200 F/4 L or 70-300 IS? After having read a lot of threads related to this topic, I choosed the latter (70-300 IS USM). It weights less and have a wider zoom ranges, the picture quality is good (not perfect like L lenses), and have IS which is specially useful for handheld shooting with zoom lense. I usally shoot without tripods. Furthermore, in Europe the 70-200 F4 L is much expensive than 70-300 USM IS lense. That's why I choosed this lense. After several shooting, I am quite happy with this lense.

If you don't have CS2, you can in any case to use DPP to convert the RAW image to TIFF/JPEG. You can also try to use monochromatic picture style with different filter in DPP. Even it may not give you the best result, but it's easieast way to convert the RAW (no metter you shoot in colour or in B&W mode in your 20D) to the monochromatic image jpeg image. Hope it can help.

For notebook PC, the prefere OS is Windows XP. Here are something you should take into consideration from my point of view:

- RAM: 1GB, more and better and XP would use all you have and run better

- CPU: Pentium Mobile even with not fatest CPU, it save you battery

- Hardisk: at least 60GB fast disk

- goof graphic card with at least 32 MB video RAM

- CD/DVD writer: DVD support DVD+R(W) and DV-R(W), double layer even better

- USB ports: at least 2, more and better and at least one is USB2

- firewire: better have it for the videocam connection

- modem and ethernet connectors: almost all have them on board..

- at least 14' monitor, otherwise too hard to work with graphic editing

- cards reader (MMC/SD, CF, ...)

- PCMCIA slots for adding different additional equipment like card reader....

- Bluetooth (communicate with mobile phone, another pc, ...)

- wifi (for wireless internet connection like when you are in airport, ...)

 

So, for good pure graphic editing, enough RAM, goofgraphic card, fast disk can help a lot...

 

Don't forget, you need to calibrate the monitor...

 

Hope my 2 cents can help

Good luck

Nice to hear about it. Yes, too many things to learn on image processing, but on the sametime it provide more creativity...

 

To just add another option, have a look at http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/high-pass-sharpening.shtml

Another filter to sharp the image (High Pass) in photoshop...you can play it around to see which one is suit for you.

Have a look on this site which provide the comparition of many noise reduction tools:

http://denoiser.shorturl.com/

I normally shoot in RAW, both for Color and B&W. the B&W in raw contains all colour information, it only set the picture style to Monochrome. If you open it in DPP, you can swith to other picture style and back to colour. For me, if you don't want to do post processing at all for high quality printing, shoot it directly in JPEG B&W. That will save you a lot of time, otherwise in RAW. Here my 2 cents.

Thank you, that is what I want to know! I don't know anything about ProPhoto color space. In CS2 you can set to use it. But in case I want to use it too, should I also set the color profile in ProPhoto on PC display even it can not display some color(acttualy I set it in sRGB in the color manager setting from advance setting of display property on XP)?

I think when you downsizing the image, you may need to do some sharpening on the image like Unsharp Mask (UMS) or Smart Sharpening in PS by yourself. Maybe Photoeditor sharpening the image when you resize the image by default. For the parameters on UMS, there are many suggestions from the internet...Many people suggest to use 200-300%, 0.3-0.5, 0. I do it for all images from 20D (because it's a little bit soft anyway unless you set the sharp parameter on the camera and shot it in JPEG). Someone suggest to de-forging (adjust contrast) before the sharpening by using USM with other parameter (20%, 40-60, 0). You can try either one of them or both of them and changing a little bit of the parameters. You may get the picture better.

Thank Patricia, and all others have provided my advices...I Think I will stop switch from one program to other (I did it for several days but never get me out...), Stick with CS2 and see if I can improve my skills on CS2. But stil not clear if I should set my 20D to work on adobeRGB and working in AdobeRGB color space in CS2 or use sRBG for both. From my understanding, adobeRBG provides more Gamnut and maybe it's better for post processing. When I finish the post processing I can reconvert it back to sRGB for the compatibilty for the final jpeg image then for printing. Am I right. The same also for 16bit per chanel? working on 16 bit per chanel, then convert back to 8 bit for final printing?

Peng

Yes, please have a look at

http://www.xs-drive.com/purchase.asp

and see the specification at

http://www.xs-drive.com/index.htm#_prods

 

I personal prefer this one:

X'S-DRIVE 2 XL VP2260, and soonly will order 100GB VP2260.

But you can buy a similar one X'S-DRIVE II PLUS VP2160 which much cheaper price.

If you are in europe, go ebay, you will find even cheaper price than that site on both.

Hi,

 

I am a beginner on digital photography. I have post this message

also in DPReview. After I read some threads related this topic, I'm

still confused... I've tryed different programs, but stil don't don't

which is better....Too many suggestions and I am disoriented.....Could

someone give some simple advice so that I don't need to switch from

one and other to see which is better?

 

Thanks in advances

 

First I use DPP, it give you the possibility to chnaging the parameter

just like in camera setting (20D), and plus some few setting in the

curve and RGB staffs...But dont know which type of file I should

convert is better. JPEG, TIFF8 or TIFF16? adobeRGB or sRBG?

 

Second I try CS2, it seems can automatically correct the image from

RAW file, should I turn off automatic correction? This program provide

more parmeters to change the raw files like lense and a lot of

parameters...8 bit per chanel or 16 bit per chanel? adobeRGB or sRGB?

 

Third I try the RawShooter essentials, much simple and direct

interface, easier convertion...but non idea how to tune the

parameters....it provide also the 8bit/16bit tiff or jpeg convertion

with adobeRGB or sRGB ...

 

Should I use these program directly to do the sharpening and/or noise

reduction jobs, or it's better I working on them later with specific

program like CS2, Neatimage,....?

 

Last but not least, I try to use CS2 to reduce High ISO noise, but

never get the same result as I did with NeatImage, did I do somthing

wrong or CS2 work worse than NeatImage in this specific area?

Thanks

Peng