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matt_haber1

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Posts posted by matt_haber1

  1. Two Bowens QuadX3000 Strobe heads--essentially perfect condition. Includes flash tubes and modeling lights.

     

    $350 each. (+ shipping)

     

    Also, reflectors as shown. I'd like $40 for the universal reflectors, which are in EX condition, and $30/20 for the other reflectors (one is Bowens/Calumet branded, and is a little more robust than the Bowens branded one).

     

    OR $700 for all. I will also throw in the QuadX 3000 power pack, for parts (the caps are shot) (probably makes sense for local to San Francisco pick up if you want the pack).

    IMG_0985.thumb.JPG.7501ae6eb2e3c85b723968c8bf34905d.JPG IMG_0985.thumb.JPG.7501ae6eb2e3c85b723968c8bf34905d.JPG IMG_0985.thumb.JPG.7501ae6eb2e3c85b723968c8bf34905d.JPG IMG_0986.thumb.JPG.e6d4e26e04762b339bb6312a1a659cb5.JPG IMG_0987.thumb.JPG.02c4dbd841d53085a52e11525fed5915.JPG IMG_0988.thumb.JPG.d0530bd3d2247266fa270935ae940322.JPG IMG_0989.thumb.JPG.2cddd04d7fadec2bb7cbcea0b0df3e60.JPG IMG_0990.thumb.JPG.6a0d9835fca1543017b29ef31de164f3.JPG IMG_0991.thumb.JPG.102b18bab912edf67050dcd7e8b25029.JPG (and sorry for the multiple pics of the covered head...can't figure out how to get rid of some without borking all)

  2. <p>I used the mechanical engineer's solution--get a bigger hammer!<br>

    I spent some more time unsuccessfully trying to take it apart. Then I realized that the head end had been left at the extreme end of its range of motion. I decided that a small bump may have caused it to go <em>beyond</em> its limit, so I hit it gently with a hammer, thinking that might push the gears back into the right position. That worked!</p>

    <p>JC Uknz--thanks for the suggestion. Not sure where I would have sprayed, as I didn't know (initially, without taking it apart) where it was frozen.</p>

  3. <p>My Bogen boom arm recently froze and will no longer move up and down (turning still works). I don't know what caused the problem, as it happened when it was on loan (grrr). I have not been able to figure out how to even take it apart to diagnose the problem, and Google has <em>not</em> been my friend!</p>

    <p>Any suggestions as to next steps?</p>

  4. I anwered this to a later post, so this may be a bit repetitive...

     

    The EOS-3 manual which says 1/200 with on-camera flash and 1/125 with studio flash. My experience with at least 2 brands of studio strobes (3 different Normans and one other--a loaner-don't recall the brand) is that 1/200 works fine. I'm not sure why Canon makes the distinction--makes no logical sense to me. FWIW, I once set 1/250 by mistake and lost very little of the frame. I'm not sure why John Kantor had trouble with his Novatrons.

     

    Also, (defying logic), sync speed does make a difference in studio photograpy. I do dance photography (see www.matthaber.com for examples), and had been using Olympus OM until 2002. Those sync at 1/60. I would get blurry feet with my dancers; now with my Canon EOS-3 (identical strobes), I get sharp feet. This is in a pretty dark studio, so ambient light was not the issue.

     

    -matt

  5. An earlier answer suggested a sync speed of 1/60. That's consistent with the EOS-3 manual, which says 1/200 with on-camera flash and 1/60 with studio flash. My experience with at least 2 brands of studio strobes (3 different Normans and one other--a loaner-don't recall the brand) is that 1/200 works fine. I'm not sure why Canon makes the distinction--makes no sense to me. FWIW, I once set 1/250 by mistake and lost very little of the frame.

     

    -matt

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