brian_valente

<p>So has anyone heard from controlMyNikon regarding this "end of july" beta release for D800/e and D4 support?</p>

<p>Web site says "real soon now"</p>

<p>Cheers</p>

<p>Brian</p>

<p>Well, here we are in July and ControlMyNikon still has no support for D800.</p>

<p>Nikon's Camera Control Pro supports the D800 and has for some time. So while I'd love to try out ControlMyNikon, CCP is the only option right now. sometimes bad breath is better than no breath</p>

<p>Brian</p>

<p>Update: I think I've answered my own question after reading some of the articles here: use the Bulb setting to open the shutter and "lock the plunger". </p>

<p>The only question I now have is how to "lock" a pneumatic-style plunger. I don't see any way to attach a mechanical plunger to this shutter?<br>

Thanks again on any suggestions</p>

<p>Brian</p>

<p>I just picked up this lens (or one very similar to it) as part of an old agfa 8x10 camera kit. I can't for the life of me figure out how to open the shutter for focusing. It may be that something is not working correctly (or user error, of course) but I don't see any lever to open the shutter, as I've had on my graflex and more recent cameras. The shutter itself works fine and the bulb and timed speeds open the shutter as long as I hold the release down, but that doesn't seem too practical. Any suggestions greatly appreciated</p>

<p>Brian</p>

Yes, I realize the great MD lenses out there that are available. The situation is that we (a manufacturer) have an MD mount for precisely that reason. However, a customer mistakenly purchased these Zeiss Alfa lenses and now is panicked to get them working. That's why I'm looking for this unusual request.

it is true that maxxum lens mount appears approx 5mm larger than the MD mount. It is actually not an MD mount still camera, but a 35mm lens adapter for video cameras. If you are really curious you can check out www.redrockmicro.com

Thanks all for your input.

Brian

Hi Folks,

I know this sounds like a strange request, but I am trying to help someone get

their Sony Alpha zeiss lenses (the really nice expensive ones) to mount to an

older Minolta MD mount. No automatic capabilities need to work, just get the

lens onto the mount and be able to use the optics. I believe the zeiss lenses

have a mechanical aperture as well, so pretty much just the physical mount is

what I think we need. I've seen lots of posts on MD to maxxuum body, but this is

the reverse.

Any ideas much appreciated. Don't know if it's possible/available

Cheers

Brian

John

I agree my mamiya is far more satisfying than my digital SLR (but not as satisfying as my 4x5 field cam!). I think there is definitely something in there about the thoughtfulness that goes into the *craft* of photography, not just snapping off 10 or 15 and fixing it in photoshop.

I am more from the ansel adams camp, so I am partial to well considered images that are thoughtfully setup. I can appreciate the images you've described above, but at the same time technical merit in the act of taking the photo also has its merits.

Cheers

Brian

yep - it's the lightweight combined with (for the better cf tripods) no sacrifice in stability. It's easy to address one or the other, but tough to do both. I have a great aluminum bogen knock-off, but it weighs a ton, and makes me cringe everytime I have to go out into the field.

Also, weight limits imho are misleading. It doesn't matter if it can hold up to 20 pounds if you can't move that weight smoothly and it doesn't provide the support to reduce vibration.

my two cents

cheers

Brian

I recommend the RB67 - I have a similar background coming from DSLR and I found the switch to medium format to be pretty straightforward. You'll also need a good light meter like the sekonic l-508. Also, imho you should upgrade the screen to a beattie or something that has greater brightness. I found it was a big difference in the usability of the camera.

I've used an RB67 Pro S, which is the model I'd recommend. RZ is great, but not sure it's worth the extra $$ unless you want to switch to a digital back at some point.

Cheers

Brian

So Neil has the ticket - it is a non-functioning distance scale that merely allows you calculate distance. It doesn't affect focus. That is for the 127mm lens.

Cheers

Brian

George - it should work fine. You may not have the revolving back completely locked into place (it should 'click'), or perhaps you still have the dark slide in there?

Cheers

Brian

Dean

You'll have to best judge if the tripod is sturdy enough to not transmit vibrations. I use my rb with a cheap-o bogen knockoff tripod and haven't had any issues.

Regarding the vertical lines, it's normal that they don't appear too, er, precise. They are pretty crude but get the job done.

I haven't yet monkeyed with macro photography, so I don't have input there

Cheers

Brian

Honestly I'm not sure you'd gain enough to warrant going to RZ from your RB Pro SD. They are so similar.Perhaps invest in some K/L lenses instead?

Cheers

Brian

For the $$ I'd go RB67 Pro S or Pro SD. Shoots the largest neg (6x7) and you can always crop.

You can get a full kit in excellent shape for 300-400 including lens. The RBs feel anything but cheap - built like a tank. I had excellent results on my eBay buying, only one hiccup involving a hood. Major gear is great

Cheers

Brian

You may consider a used mamiya rb or rz67. You can get the nice 140mm macro lens (plus extension tubes for really close work) and works nicely for landscapes as well. A film version used runs around $300-500

Cheers

Brian

I have 6x7 negs (rb67) and got it working. Don't know if you have this problem, but you have to scan one neg at a time. If you try to put a sheet of three in it gets confused and cuts off all sorts of things.

try inserting just one neg

Cheers

Brian

I was in a similar situation, and picked up a mamiya RB67 Pro S kit for around $300 USD (incredibly cheap!). It isn't as portable as the pentax or mamiya 7 (which resemble large 35mm cameras), but it has a 6x7 image which gave me the extra resolution I was looking for. I also just picked up a LF Busch Pressman (4x5) but in my experience it's a big leap to go large format in the knowledge you'll need to make it work.

Cheers

Brian

Laura - I've always had good experiences with KEH. you can always call them and ask about the individual cameras. Very helpful. Can't speak to David Odess.

Cheers

Brian

Marc

I agree with Gary - I don't see whole lot of difference in the posted image on sharpness. as a whole it looks kind of soft. The shoes could be DOF softness (they look to be sticking out a few feet). I personally haven't had the problem you experience, though I shoot rb67.

It's easy enough to test - get yourself a res chart or something that has consistency edge to edge (I use my garage door that has a repeating pattern) and see if it shows there.

Cheers

Brian

Robert

This is a common modification to the Kiev cameras. You may want to check kievcamera.com or some of the auctions on eBay that have these mods already done. I suspect kievcamera may do the mod for you.

Don't know about the reverse

Cheers

Brian

well let's see - there are two parts to the "back" - the film back (which has the top-bottom levers that slide left-right) and then the rotating adapter part which locks the film back to the camera and allows rotating. That only has a bottom lever. When I look at mine, there are four holes (two on left side and two on right side) that have a locking mechanism I can see moving when I move the one lever. Hope that helps

Brian