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todd_caudle

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Posts posted by todd_caudle

  1. After rereading my post, I suddenly realized I

    forgot to address one of the primary issues I

    intended to ask about. Can I do a book, an e-

    book or limited or unlimited edition prints

    without getting myself sued? I know doing

    posters and the like is off the table (not that

    I'd want to do something like that), and I also

    know that I might only have a problem if a

    particular artist finds out what I'm doing AND

    has a problem with it. But in a more general

    scope, can books and prints still fall under

    the umbrella of editorial use?

  2. <p>Hi All,<br>

    From 1979 through 1994 I shot hundreds of concerts by big name artists in Colorado. In fact, no one shot more concerts in the region in that time period than I did. We're talking Springsteen, Rush, Van Halen, Stevie Ray Vaughan, Grateful Dead, Michael Jackson -- you name it, if they were a big shot artist, I shot them. I was a freelancer and do know that I own the copyright to all the images. My question is, how can I make money from them now? I feel like I'm sitting on a treasure trove of rock & roll history, if I can just figure out a way to make it generate income. They're obviously not current photos, so selling usage rights to magazines for current newsworthiness isn't an option. What about a book? An e-book? Signed/numbered, limited-edition fine art prints? Non-limited edition photographic prints? For the latter, what marketing strategy? These days I'm all about the marketing of landscape images, but these? Not a clue.<br>

    Thanks for any and all advice!<br>

    <img src="http://toddcaudle.com/Rush-Alex-Geddy-060181-01H.jpg" alt="" width="720" height="568" /></p>

     

  3. <p>Whew! I step away from here for a few days and the conversation takes on a new trajectory. Welcome to the internets! :-)</p>

    <p>So here's the deal: My initial question was whether or not DPP's wide-gamut RGB and ProPhoto RGB were roughly equivalent. Yes, I understand that current monitors and printers cannot use the entirety of the ProPhoto RGB gamut. I just wanted to know whether or not these two were close.</p>

    <p>But this leads me to say that <em>of course</em> I want to use a larger color gamut if one is available! Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it, right? If I shot only for a final output of black & white prints, would I be well-served to convert only to a grayscale tiff? Of course not! I want to convert my images to the widest possible color gamut so I don't leave any colors out that might otherwise be included. As Charles noted, technology will catch up with larger color spaces. Epson's latest printers are an example of that. </p>

    <p>In short, there's nothing in my current workflow that requires that I switch to ProPhoto RGB, I only want to convert my files with as much data as I might ever need, and not have to go back and re-convert once technology catches up.</p>

    <p>Thanks, everyone, for a spirited discussion!</p>

  4. <p>Hey all, I attended a great fine art digital printing workshop yesterday by John Paul Caponigro and R. Mac Holbert, and one of the things I took away from it was that I've been missing out on a wider color gamut by converting from RAW to TIFF using Adobe RGB (1998) instead of the larger Pro Photo RGB color space. (As an aside, don't you just <strong><em>love</em></strong> finding out that you've done every conversion you've ever made since going digital wrong? Exaggeration, I know, but you get my drift.) My initial workflow software of choice is DPP, where I do the minor editing it allows (and 9 times out of 10 it's all that's needed except for dust spotting, etc.), where it faithfully retains my picture style and other settings through the conversion process, then I convert to TIFF and do any final edits in CS5. I note that the color management preferences in DPP don't specifically offer Pro Photo RGB, but do have something called Wide Gamut RGB. Might this be the same as Pro Photo RGB under a more generic name? Or am I possibly missing a DPP update that officially lists Pro Photo RGB as an option? I really like the simplicity of the DPP software, and for what I do it's usually enough. I'd rather not go to LR, which I don't own, or ACR for the initial work and conversion. Thanks for any thoughts on this!</p>
  5. <p>Hey gang, <br /> <br />I'm helping a friend out on a project, and I'm using his Epson 4880 printer. We're printing 7x10-inch documents (note cards that'll fold to 5x7) on 8.5x11 pre-scored paper, which we'll then batch trim for the final cards. When I print the cards, the image is perfectly placed where I need to fold it on the score line. So far, so good. <br /> <br />My problem is, the printer is outputting the image larger than 7x10! I've got it set to print at 100%, it displays that the image output size on the sheet will be 6.999" x 10", and the margins are showing perfect (.5" top, .75" left), but the final image is printing out larger than that, and not just by a tiny amount, but like 3/8" in each direction. Any ideas what's causing this? Could it be a non-native ppi of 300 instead of 360? What else might be going on? We're using PS CS3, in case that matters.<br /> <br />Thanks in advance for any/all help!</p>
  6. <p>Hi folks,<br>

    I'm trying to figure out a way to print A7 cards (7x10 flat/5x7 closed) with the image on the front of the card borderless. Red River makes some pre-scored greeting card stock, so to test it out before my paper arrives, I cut some sheets I had on hand to 7x10 and experimented. My understanding is, select borderless, 5x7, expansion slider to minimum to avoid overprinting the score and having a little bit of the image on the back after folding. I did all that and it worked fine, EXCEPT the printer won't print the last 1/8th inch. I thought maybe I needed to adjust the expansion slider to maximum, did that, sure enough it overprinted the center line of the card where the score/fold line will be, but even at max expansion, it failed to print the last 1/8th inch. Seems to me borderless printing should occur on all four sides of a print, not just three.<br>

    I've attached a quickly snapped pic of the card to show what I'm talking about. I drew a line down the middle just to see what would happen with a max expansion setting. The overprinting of that line concerns me MUCH less than the margin at the top. This is the last part of the image to print, since I flipped the image upside-down so it would print the right way on the card front. Any ideas?<br>

    <img src="http://www.toddcaudle.com/A7_card.jpg" alt="" /></p>

  7. <p>I was helping a friend set up his new Epson 4880 yesterday, and once we got it fired up, we wanted to test it out on a paper he uses most often to print art note cards. He has been using Epson Ultra Premium Presentation Matte Paper, but it was not one of the choices in the drop-down menu under matte papers. Where would I find a profile for that paper? Or is one of the built-in profiles the equivalent? Thanks!<br /> </p>
  8. <p>Thanks all. I guess I was so shocked because I shoot in conditions that at least <em>look</em> like this as often as I can find them. Apparently the atmospheric conditions were just different from what I'm used to.</p>

    <p>And B.J., yup, it is an amazing modern world we live in!</p>

  9. <p>Hi Gang,<br>

    I'm posting this on photo.net because I think this forum has the most technically savvy visitors. And now that I've buttered you up...<br>

    I shot this morning out at Garden of the Gods, where it was an amazing 14 below air temp when I started, and conditions were quite extraordinary. An hour after sunrise some clouds started to form, making for a very dynamic scene. I've shot from this overlook many times, but this was some of the best conditions I've ever encountered here.<br>

    When I got home and started looking through the images, to my horror, I noticed that I was properly focused on the red rock ridge, but that the distant mountains looked totally out of focus. This seemed quite unlikely to me, as I was shooting my 70-200 f4L lens at f14, which I've found to be its sweet spot, and the point of focus (the red rock) was a smidgen over half a mile away as the crow flies. I've been doing this long enough to know that if I focus on something roughly 2700 feet away and stop the lens down at all, it should focus to infinity. Still, I went to an online DOF calculator, punched in the details of the shot posted here (5D Mk-2, 70-200 @ 150mm, 1/20th sec., f14, iso100, etc.), which confirmed what I thought. The shot should be in acceptable focus from 162.3 feet to infinity (and BEYOND!), yet here the ridge was nice a crisp, but the mountains were fuzzy.<br>

    I'll follow this with a crop to demonstrate.<img src="http://www.toddcaudle.com/focus-test-1.jpg" alt="" /></p>

  10. I have become a steadfast convert to how truly amazing the images from the 5D are. I shot some photos of Garden of the Gods and Pikes Peak last week, and with some knowledge of the terrain, I was able to track down an A-frame shelter that is along Barr Trail at timberline. If the photo doesn't load with this post, I've posted a page with a few examples of the 5D resolution here: http://www.toddcaudle.com/a_frame.htm

     

    In short, the 5D is far and away better than the XT (I had an XT before the 5D), and worth the extra dollars. But I also agree that Canon probably isn't too far from coming out with either an improved 5D (with the 30D's sensor-cleaning capability, perhaps?), or another camera altogether. When they do, you can either get the new model, or watch the price of used 5Ds drop and pick one up for less than their current cost.

  11. I recently did business with americanframe.com for a 30-large-prints job (my biggest ever), and found their frames to be excellent, and their customer service and delivery times great as well. Highly recommended. I will say, after years of using their services, that Light Impressions is off my list of framing sources. Two bad experiences in two months, accompanied by horrible customer service, did them in for me.
  12. I wish that were true, but it's not. A small amount of matte black ink is used, even on RC paper, so that the jet remains free of clogs. I wouldn't use matte black on an RC paper, it just so happens that, even though it took forever, the matte black cartridge has run out of ink (in the middle of a print job, of course!), and because I never think to order a matte black cartridge or two when I order everything else, I'm now stuck without a functioning printer until I order a matte black cartridge.

     

    Same goes with the gloss optimizer cartridge. Even though I have the gloss option unchecked, a small amount of gloss is used in the process, so that you still have to buy cartridges, even though you're intentionally trying not to use the gloss cartridge.

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