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woodbyte

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  1. So after a little deeper investigation and deeper testing, I conclude this is my issue......http://lpadesign.com/580EXII.pdf

     

    Entire charge dumps on pre flash. On manual it dumps entire charge.

     

    Also I noted that after checking serial numbers it was my original 580exii that failed, not the one I bought from eBay. I was

    too quick to assume duff product from ebay.

     

    Long story short i ordered four new 600ex rt and my dead 580ex is at CPS being repaired and will shortly join its other

    580ex colleagues as I upgrade to canon radio triggering.

     

    Rgds

    James

  2. <p>Hi - <br /> Anyone have any experience with output variation between flashes? I'm using 1DX with pocket-wizard mini and flexes. I have two 580EXII's, one I purchased from new (A) and one from ebay ©. When I fire into wescott silver soft umbrellas the ebay flash © is around 2.5 stops less output, which I just eyeballed by playing with the AC3 controller until they both looked the same on the viewfinder LCD. Not very scientific I know, but there is a clear difference in output between the two.. . All settings are identical on each flash, and I am using the "shrouds" that come with the flexes.<br /> Do flashes "wear out" or do they just die? Perhaps I bought a bummer from ebay.<br /> thanks for any insight you may have</p>

    <p>rgds<br /> james</p>

  3. <p>....some time passes by.</p>

    <p>Then I got worried as I feared when I applied the cap, there was a small danger the elastic band may actually touch the lens when the cap is on, so for the elimination of doubt, I glued the elastic band together, to lower its profile and guarantee it would not touch the lens when the cap was on....</p><div>00bflj-538749584.jpg.3d9de8d65f2c8982c33d69722e2ed4d7.jpg</div>

  4. <p>Got the zoom fisheye today. It's very nice.</p>

    <p>Like all on line reviews I have read, a big failing is a very very vey very loose lens cap. For those that don't own the lens, the cap is much deeper than a regular lens cap, and actually wraps around the lens hood, rather than nest inside it, like many of their other standard lenses. It uses same spring clip design as a regular lens cap, but it is tragically loose.</p>

    <p>Now I'm not an engineer, but I do like tinkering with stuff. How could I make the connection tighter? I toyed with the idea of just taping the cap to the lens hood (read that somewhere) and then just unclip the lens hood and remove simultaneously; that's a robust, yet inelegant solution. I then thought about gluing something to the inside of the spring clip to make it harder to compress and thus more difficult to remove. Probably impact the warranty.</p>

    <p>Finally I came up with this solution. The spring clip can be carefully removed from inside the lens cap. Go buy some asparagus or similar vegetable that come in bunches wrapped by a tough elastic band. (Wash it first, then...) Place that elastic band round the spring clip and then replace the clip back inside the lens cap.</p>

    <p>Voila. Neat invisible way of increasing the compression strength required to remove the cap.</p>

    <p>One minor concern - maybe over time it may weaken the spring clip a little, as the clip now sits slightly off the back surface of the lens cap, but it's only a tiny bit, and I was lucky enough to find a perfect sized elastic band in my drawer full of 'things that might come in useful one day', so I don't believe it is adding too much stress compressing the spring.</p>

    <p>Anyhow - thought I'd share my fix - hopefully it may work for you as well.</p>

    <p>rgds,<br /> james</p>

    <p> </p><div>00bflI-538743584.jpg.4fd5690bcf7325b15c369bb1229618fc.jpg</div>

  5. Hello

     

    Looking for ideas here, figured someone could help me. I am team photographer of our local swim team. Head coach has a vision as

    follows...... Club has an underwater video camera designed to analyze swim strokes. He wants each swimmer to have their own DVD and

    periodically, say every six months, we'd photograph their dives and film their turns, strokes etc so they could have their individual rolling

    record of their stroke improvement. I can handle the video editing and cataloging, but my concern is the logistics of using read-write DVD

    discs and their compatibility with home DVD systems. It also means the child had to bring their own DVD each time along with dangers of

    being scratched, lost etc. My other thought was online hosting. Set up Vimeo account. Give each family their own password and load the

    videos up there. The tech savvy families could then download themselves if they needed, or just watch online. Or buy each family a flash

    drive and transfer that way?

     

    Any other thoughts, suggestions, recommendations......

     

    Thanks

     

    James

  6. <p>I like the website and the images, and wish I could take shots like that now ( I am an amateur). The one thing that bugged me is the home page, the images that you showcase abruptly, and very quickly cycle through. I'd slow them down a little and maybe fade/dissolve them a little. But I'm rapidly falling into the 'old' category (44?) and so maybe I'm just out of touch? </p>

    <p>Other than than you clearly have a passion and some clear skill. Whatever you do in life there's a few that are lucky (and inherit), but most achieve success through long hours and hard work.</p>

    <p>good luck.<br>

    james</p>

  7. <p><a href="http://www.adobe.com/special/cs6/launch-event-desktop.html">http://www.adobe.com/special/cs6/launch-event-desktop.html</a><br>

    <a href="http://prodesigntools.com/adobe-cs6-launch-date-event.html">http://prodesigntools.com/adobe-cs6-launch-date-event.html</a></p>

    <p>So I have been debating internally for some time the upgrade cost between CS5 (std) and CS5 (extended). In my mind it was $350 to make the upgrade and then it would be ~$200 to upgrade to CS6 when it was launched. After speaking with Adobe they explained I could pay the 350 and get extended now and then a free upgrade to CS6 when it launches soon.</p>

    <p>So I did, and think (hope) I saved a few dollars.</p>

    <p>rgds,<br /> james</p>

  8. <p>Just bought a 1DMKIV as upgrade from my MKIIN. Question is regarding the battery. Over the long haul would I be better running the single new battery I have into the ground and then buying a new one or buy a spare one now and alternate them. So buy two and flip-flop or buy one then buy another new one in one/two years. What might be the most economical. Doubtful I'd ever use up one battery in one session based on my MKIIN usage. Just looking for some thoughts....</p>

    <p>thks<br>

    james</p>

  9. <p>Frank - that's a neat video, thanks, and yes, I could never reproduce it.</p>

    <p>Agree with David, I never realised the mirror bounced round as much as it does.</p>

    <p>So I think my theory is close, but I think my sequence is reversed. If I remember well the image is inverted on the sensor, so probably what happened was the reflection was captured first and the LED blinked out as the shutter window travelled down, captured no light emisions as the window neared the bottom of it's travel which was the top of the image.</p>

    <p>rgds,<br /> james</p>

  10. <p>So just throwing this out there to see what you folks think.</p>

    <p>The image below is unaltered, just converted to jpeg direct from raw file. From today at a swim meet. My interest in focused on why I can see the reflection of the LED Heat and Event numbers in the water, but not on the actual display board.</p>

    <p>My theory is, that as the shutter window descended the LED was out, or 'blinked' when the shutter window passed the top section of the image, but illuminated as the shutter window passed the reflection area in the lower area of the image.</p>

    <p>Am I right?</p>

    <p>rgds,<br /> james</p><div>00ZRlW-405409684.jpg.0664df331bccd703615ecb7acad5b206.jpg</div>

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