sonny_jet

A big thank you to everyone. Cheers!

 

It looks as though this is a great lens. Does anyone know how the gelatin filter holder system works? I.e. is it like the Cokin Filter holder system but at the BACK of the lens? As I would appreciate using a Polariser if anything else.

 

Mark, it must be a good lens if you have one as I know you only buy top quality!

 

Sonny

Hi,

 

I am after a wide angle lens for my 5D and possibly for a future

aditional 1d2N purchase. I was initially thinking of going down the

Canon route with either a second hand 17-35L or s/h or brand new 17-

40L. However, I realised I have the 24-105L + 35L and so there wasn't

any point in spending lots of money for 17-24mm of the 17-40L/17-35L

lenses.

 

I have now turned my attention to 3rd party lenses. The lens will be

used for landscapes + indoor/novelty uses.

 

The Sigma 12-24 4.5-5.6 DG looks interesting and I was hoping to get

feedback from users. Thre are also other companies who make a similar

lens, I think Tokina or Tamron. Is one significantly better than the

other? I have heard that the Sigma has to be stopped down to f8/11 -

that isn't a problem for me. I have also been told that it has a rear

gelatin filter system. I am not sure what this is but some users have

reported it to be a little bothersome. On the plus side, the Sigma is

cheaper than canons and it's also 12mm! - that sounds very cool.

 

Do you recommend the Sigma 12-24? Are there any similar/better

alternatives? Does anyone know when the February PMA show is ? As

Canon may release some news on a new WA lens...

 

Thank you very much. You're help is appreciated :)

 

 

Sonny

In your 3 options - is the optical quality of the lens the same with all 3 diferent mounts?

 

Thanks

Anyone have an answer for it?

 

For example I have a Zeiss 50mm 1.7 lens that I use on my Canon via an adaptor. IF there is a new Zeiss 50mm 1.7 for the Nikon F mount, will the optics be the same as my lens?

 

If so. I don't know what the fuss is about as mine works with infiniti focus + metering.

Sorry! I meant in response to 'Graham'

 

Thanks.

Thanks Graham. Appreciate that very useful inf very much indeed. HAd no idea that you couldn't AF in such a way. I read about it but didn't quite understand what the reviewer was saying but you have cleared that up now.

 

Thanks.

Federica, where abouts in the UK are you? I can help. If you are in London, I can help even more. Let me know which body you are after and I have friends at many local camera dealers here in London who you can visit and they will get you a good priced camera, the price of which won't be too far off the ebay price (usually). All are reputable, long established dealers.

 

Good luck

Cheers people! The RS sounds like the one. I like good build quality and if it's better than than the build quality of the RT than it must be pretty decent. I have a friend who lives quite a way away from me but his local store has both cameras. The RT for approx. 100 dollars and the RS for approx. 300 bucks. How cool is that? Rock on the digital evolution...as it leaves me with plenty of cool 35mm buys, a few years ago I thought wouldn't be possible.

Cheers Henry. I'm not looking for a second body. Just a new 'toy' to create images with and the pellicle mirror bodies have caught my eye. Truth be told, I will possibly (probably) use it for 5-10 rolls and then keep it as a collectors item. I leave serious 35mm work to my (dare I say it) Nikon fm'X' bodies or my dads Eos 3.

 

Spot metering of the 1N RS sounds good. Keep the valid points comming :)

Hi.

 

If price wasn't a consideration, which would you choose?

 

I would really like to get my hands on one of these pellicle mirror

bodies but am not sure which to go for. I have been using the 20D

for a few months now but still have plenty of film left over from my

film days, and would really like to get back to shooting film as I do

miss it. A few years ago, I briefly handled the EOS 600/630, which

is very similar to the EOS RT and loved the build quality.

 

I understand the pellicle mirror and the issues that come with it

(slightly darker VF, zero blackout, good fps burst etc.)

The camera will be used for all sorts of general photography.

Particularly birds, macro and street photography.

 

Is there anything else I should know before purchasing one of these

bodies? Is the 1N RS a lot better than the RT ? Basically, I'm pretty

sure I would be fine with a EOS RT BUT I don't want to miss out on

the 1N RS. It's too bad I haven't been able to handle the 1N RS but

hopefully your views can help me decide.

 

As always, your help is much appreciated.

Hi. I shoot most kinds of photographs. Has anyone used either of

these ? Particularly the Basalt series? Someone previously said "they

are a poor man's Cardbon fibre".

 

Here in the UK, the Gitzo Basalt 1297 is about 40 pounds (70 dollars)

cheaper than the 055MF3. Do you find that you use the horizontal

postion of the Manfrotto a lot? Will the manfrotto 322RC2 head fit

on both tripods?

 

As I see it:

 

Man 055MF3

Pro's:

 

1. Horizontal Arm (but can it support same load vertically as well as

if camera was horizontlly positioned?)

 

2. Minimum Height is very good (10cm or so)- could be great fun.

 

Con's

 

1. 400g heavier than Gitzo (I will be travelling with it a lot in the

near future)

 

Gitzo Basalt 1297

Pro's

 

1. Slightly cheaper

 

2. Lighter (1.6kg)

 

Con's

 

1.No Horizontal Arm

 

2. Minimum distance not so good (but I have been told you can change

the centre column to get a v. low minimum height. However, not sure

how much this costs)

 

 

 

Thank you

If you like the focal range then you can save up and perhaps go for one of the 2X - 70 f2.8 Zooms offered by Canon, Sigma and Tamron (prioced I think between 600-1100 dollars) These have a fixed low aperture meaning they will perform better in low light situations comapred to your current zoom. Also, their bokeh (rendition of out-of-focus area) will be nicer too.

 

However, first off, use your current zoom and see how you get on. I believe it gives you view of a 45-128mm. Use it and see how you find the focal range. If you need a fast (better in low light conditions) lens then you can't go wrong by going for a 50mm f1.8 (around a hundred dollars) . It will give you a view of an 80mm lens and is good for portraiture.

 

Good luck

 

ps. I don't think the Canon 28-105 will be a WHOLE LOT better than your current lens.

Hi,

 

Do you guys use M mode for general, walk-about snaps too ? Doesn't it slow down you're picture taking process? Because as the conditions change you have to keep adjusting shutter speed and/or Aperture ?

 

 

Thanks

Of course it's a scam. By the way, how do you guys find out details of sites, such as the date in which the site was registered etc. ?

 

Thanks

Yes!

 

And they do the best carrot juice in town!

They are NOT above a noodle bar! They are on museum st. The shop is cleverly laid out and is in fact a cafe + camera store in one. A very good one I might add. Go and see patrick/richard and tell them Sonny sent you - for a good deal ;)

 

Thanks

No-one in my opinion can beat Aperture photographic in terms of service and price.

 

They are based on Museum Street, near the British Museum and only 5 minutes walk from Totenham Court Road.

 

ps. I went into Jessops the other week and they told me that they do not price match anymore.

 

Good luck.

Hi Julius,

 

Great Portfolio!

Do you mind if I use your 'Wind Power' image in one of my Wind power vs nuclear power essays for college?

 

I would really like too :)

 

Thanks

 

 

ps. Maybe you could try out another 24-105L and see if it's any better?

Thanks very much. That's cleared up a few things.

Hi,

 

I read this article recently (sorry I mislaid the Web address) where

this gentleman said that you should use the AF point on the camera

that is closest to what you would like in focus RATHER THAN use the

centre AF point and re-compose th shot. He said (and I understand his

theory) that by using the centra AF point (on say someone's eyes) and

then re-composing the shot, you would infact be making an error (very

small but it may appear to be a bigger error with v. fast lenses)

because when you re-compose, the camera has actually moved a little

(perhaps a few inches), therefore picture will not be as sharp (or

DOF will change) as it could have been. I hope that makes sense. If

you picture taking portraits (i.e. holding the cameera vertically)

you can maybe understand the above issue better.

 

Contrary to the gentleman's opinion, I have also read many people in

these forums who say they "will not use any other AF points except

the centre one as it's the most accurate".

 

 

So, my question is: who is correct? I understand the answer will not

be as simple as that but your opinions are appreciated.

 

Thanks

Hello Vinny!

 

Good question. Nice to have a light-hearted post from time to time. You got me concentrating for a full 10 mins - way more than what my brain is designed for :)

 

I see your gf has a SD500. How about getting her an U/W housing ? I did a search and the model you should be after is the WPDC70 - they go for around $200 or so. Judging by the price, I reckon they seem to be fairly good quality. Plus, the SD500 has custom WB so I don't see any reason why it couldn't cope for some u/w 'snaps'. Good luck and let us know what you went for in the end.

Hi,

 

Me again. Thought I'd use this space to ask another question rather than ask it from the main forum page. Does anyone know how to use the depth of field button? When I press it at a small aperture, say f22, the viewfinder on my 20D goes goes v. dark (because it has stopped down to f22 I understand) but how do I 'SEE' the depth of field when its so dark? And again at all the other apertures - how do I 'see' the area that will be in focus? PLEASE HELP. The viewfinder on the 20D doesn'y help much either. Can I change the screen without too much difficulty? Anyone know of a site where I can actually see the different screens?

 

THANK YOU VERY MUCH TO THE PEOPLE WHO HAVE REPLIED SO FAR AND TO THOSE WHO WILL DO.

Hi David,

 

Thanks for making your comment. I never thought about that. Very good point. I, of course, hope that my 20D utilising the centre of the lens overcomes (even if only slightly) the defficiencies shown by the larger magnification factor that you mentioned. I have no idea if this is true and am not too worried about it. Thanks once again for that interesting point.

Hi,

 

Maybe I should elaborate a little more on the above question. A lot of people talk about the superb sharpness, contrast etc. of this lens and some even compare it to their L series lenses. I always thought it was the glass, the aperture and the shutter speed that decided on the overall IMAGE quality. Am I missing something? - because if you don't use the f1.4 on the 50mm then wouldn't it be better getting a 50mm f1.8? Can I assume the 50mm 1.8 when used at f5.6 + shutter speed of say 1/200th produces almost the EXACT same image quality as a 50mm f1.4 at the same settings?

Hi,

 

Photography is a hobby of mine and I like to shoot all sorts of

pictures. I use to use the old FD 50mm f1.8 for many years on my

manual AE1 but only ever used it outside and never really used it

below f5.6

 

Call me naive but I have a question about the EF 50mm f1.4 lens.

 

I read in so many forums people leaving comments such as

 

"every photographer should have a 50mm f1.4 in their camera bag"

 

Yet, I also see comments such as the following about this lens:

 

"not really usable at f1.4 , beyond f2.8 it is fantastic"

 

It just doesn't make sense. Is it because SOMETIMES the f1.4 can come

in handy in emergencies? (say once every few hundred shots when

conditions are very dark?"

 

I was thinking of getting a EF 50mm f1.4 for my 20D. Of course it

would operate as a 80mm f1.4. This leads onto my second question:

Will the 50mm f1.4 on my 20D be a good portrait lens? I already have

the 100mm f2.8 macro (160mm f2.8 on 20D) for close ups but would the

EF 50mm f1.4 make a bigger improvement for portraits? (I have a

friend selling her MINT 50mm lens for ?130 [about $260]) Should I get

it?

 

Thank you.