jn02

In regards to Ebay. Be careful that the glass is perfect, the internal parts operate smoothly (1 roller will have more resistance than the other). Also if it comes with a box and manual it is more valuable than without. Get the Hasselblad (there are other 3rd party) for various reasons, some opinions differ, but I believe this is the best.

 

Remember some prisms are not compatible with the polaroid back.

 

Best way to get started is to buy

 

The Hasselblad Manual by Ernst Wildi

 

-Contains instructions on your polaroid back and everything else, just watch the edition number and you can save by getting a slightly older one.

If you search the archives (I had to when I bought one) there is a link to a manual. I also bought one from Polaroid. Once you load it you'll be surprised how easy it is. I'll check to see if I still have the adobe file as well.

I've had several "good" and "bad" expierences due to frequent purchases. My first lens was EXC+, but upon inspection saw there was a scratch on the rear element, also the shutter locked after 6 months. I sent in equipment (flash) and was offered about 1/2 what it was worth, later sold on Ebay for 350 dollars so someone must have thought it was okay. That being said, I've bought a 500 C/M body, 2 viewfinders, back all with no problem. So I'm about 80% pleased as far as Hassy equipment goes. I will always attempt the KEH route before Ebay due to their warranty, I've had stuff break for a job and they next day air. Much better used equipment than B&H who will offer no support.

That is the beauty of Hasselblad/Rollei, comparable (if not better) than any MF system with super portability. I have a Metz 60 CT-4 that I use for fill. Now that I don't work professionaly I take photos of my children and what not. Photos posted are all hand held except for flowers:

 

http://www.photo.net/photos/Derek%20Rader

About 10 years ago when I worked for a studio. I was able to observe Mamiya/Hasselblad medium format and Nikon/Pentax 35mm side by side. I was blown away by medium format, but more specifically Hassy and it's "feel" and quality. Bought my first 500 C/M and never looked back. Now it's my main camera, sold the 35mm for an extra lens and have a P&S digital for the small stuff. Won't ever look back, regret or sell what is the ultimate format and compromise between portability and quality.

I worked for a portrait studio (long, long ago...) and my first purchase was a 150mm, which is great for 3/4 and full length if you back up a bit. 2nd purchase was an 80mm, which is a fantastic all around lens, which is what it was meant for and you can pick them up dirt cheap. In the end it depends on the size of your studio. Many prefer longer focal lengths to "flatten" subjects in order to bring out the best, but if you don't have much space to work then that may not be an option for you or you may be doing things outdoors and you want to capture more scenery, etc., etc.

George, while I haven't had the honor to have been an active photographer for 27 years my 500 C/M is going on ten years since i purchased it used. I've had zero failures. I always find it entertaining to see posts on Hassy unreliability, usually from bad used purchases from poor resellers. Truly the pinnacle of cameras and always a joy to see developed.

 

Derek Rader

You don't "set" the 500 C/M for film speeds, you would use an external meter set at whatever ISO that you are using in our back. So if you meter for 400 ISO but you load 100 you will be underexposed. Shutter speed and aperture are set on the lens itself. You are not using a meter prism out of curiosity? Also reccomend that you purchase The Hasselblad Manual be Ernst Wildi, it a great tool or a 500 C/M instruction book, you will find it is a great help when starting.

 

Derek Rader

I picked one up on ebay for about 15 dollars, you'll find 3rd editions on there quite frequently, just keep an eye out and you'll save yourself significantly over a specialty book dealer.

 

Derek Rader

I hadn't realized an abandonment of the V-system was so pervasive. Hopefully the "New" Hasselblad will continue to provide parts and service for V cameras, or at least produce parts for repairmen like Davide Odess etc.

 

Derek Rader

I know that Imacon merged with Hasselblad, but when you say in "control" do you mean that there will be a fundamental change in the Hasselblad business long term strategy (i.e. abandoning 500/200 series camera/lenses).

 

Regards,

Derek

Forgive me for getting off topic, Q.G. you said that Hasselblad reserves even designator for things they don't believe in, like the H2. Only used 500/503 and never an H1/H2.

 

Out of curiosity why do you think this about the H2, no expierence with the product so just a general question?

 

Thanks

Derek

I also had a similar problem, but not exactly the same, mine completly froze, I sent it to Dave Odess and he fixed it quite quickly, spot on ever since.

 

Derek Rader

Kevin, great review and one of the few that really gets down into what the H2 is about.

 

Derek Rader

http://www.david-odess.com/

There has been some discussion that parts are getting rare for the older C & CT lenses, while that doesn't meet they are not repairable it may be wiser to move to one of the newer lenses, such as CF. Speak with David Odess who has been repairing Hasselblads for over 30 years, one he maintanences everything before he sells it, which is rare and he has prices that are very comparable to ebay etc, especially when you throw in that he already "fixed" or inspected everything. He will discuss the differences in lenses with you and their benefits before buying, his advice is invaluable. Also for reference material, the Hasselblad Manual by Ernst Wildi is a great resource, 3rd edition or higher contains both CT and CF, but check each edition for what it contains for your situation.

Marcus,

 

If you are just starting out with Hasselblad a good reference is THE HASSELBLAD MANUAL by Ernst Wildi, recomend that you get the 3rd edition or newer as it covers both CF and C lenses. This is the "Bible" for Hasselblad users and will provide you with a valuable reference. You see them on ebay all the time.

 

For repair work and purchases I recomend David Odess, not only is he one of the most respected repair masters, but he is infinitely helpful, but he also sells equipment, which you will find is serviced before sold unlike ebay or any other used camera dealer. His website is below:

 

http://www.david-odess.com/repair.html

I used to work for a photo studio in college, we had several 503 bodies with TTL, however the master I worked for didn't use any TTL functions as he preffered the thyristor on the Metz to the TTL flash, which he considered more accurate. Take it with a grain of salt, to each his own, but he was an incredible photographer and ran a very succesful business without TTL, also TTL is relatively new, so all the wonderful wedding photos of past had to happen somehow. I have a 60 CT-4 and it outperformed my TTL on a 35mm SLR by a significant margin. Testing is the only way to prove for yourself, but Metz is a very respected name for a reason and a wedding photographer weapon of choice.

 

Derek Rader

Sorry about that inserting a photo didn't work.

This will help you identify if it is a Acute-Matte D or not (newe brighter type):

Appreciate the advice and the help, good information that I was unable to find previously.

 

Derek Rader

What about the Brightscreen 20/20? Supposedly from what I've read they outperform Beattie and Hasslelblad, but I've never seen one.

 

Derek Rader

This is an older post, but in defense of Hasselblad, the studio I worked for had Mamiya 645 (One of those ultra reliable Japanese brands) invariably, they all broke. Unlike the superior service that Hasselblad offers, they could not be fixed quickly and the studio switched to 503 models. I never saw a Hasselblad break under rigourous wedding, portrait, industrial shooting etc. in 2 years, one back was sent in for CLA, that's it. I by the way had my Pentax system self destruct after about 11 years of use, body and 1 lens self destructed, however my Hasselblad system, which I bought used vice new (BTW it's 20 years older to begin with than Pentax) has only been sent in once, 120 back CLA ($90) to Dave Odess. So lets take a step back, inferior quality Japanese equipment with the same or less reliability. Price is higher for Hassy, yes, just like Leica, but so is quality and the beauty of the product.

Does anyone know the differences between the Beattie Intenscreen Plus

and Intenscreen other than the name? I have seen listings for both

and not sure what, if any differences there are, but haven't been

able to find any information either in previous postings or google as

to what the differences are. Appreciate the help and looking forward

to changing out the original focusing screen in my 500 C/M.

 

Regards,

Derek Rader

The photo studio that I worked for in college used Mamiy 645 equipment (several bodies) and stopped. Reliability was not as good as Hasselblad and the images, while not "significantly" worse were visibly not as good (color rendition, sharpness, etc.) and we stopped using the system in favor of 503 bodies. After working there I purchased my own 500 C/M and even though I no longer work for a studio I have kept the system and keep adding to it. Not having to rotate the camera is fantastic and when you want square images there is no cropping required, to me it is the best of both worlds. I cannot speak for any other system.

 

Cheers,

Derek Rader