john carter

I'll close this off now, I found the leak source. There must be a baffle inside the body of the camera that has moved. The light is entering through the flash PC ports and the meter switch.

You may be right, I'm going to retire the Spotmatic until I figure out what is EXACTLY the problem.

Update #2: still a slight problem will keep looking.

Update: I just developed a roll and no leaks. I covered the PC flash ports with foil and tape for this latest roll. I should have removed it for a couple of frames but didn't so I assume that is the problem. I exposed some frames on the 'bad' roll using my flash and these were unaffected with leaks so that is why I tried this.

John, thanks for that input, I'll try watching the mirror to see if I can visually see hesitation.

I did try this, and some were funky but not the same. I tried the flash gun approach to the flash connector and the meter switch (on) and didn't see anything. I can't remember how many shots I took with the Mamiya Sekor 135 (for Spotmatic II-SP-F) but that is the best choice so far. I use this camera often and have never had this problem and the Mamiya Sekor is fairly new (a gift). Thanks for this input.

I'm still fishing around for this leak, I tending toward a leak in the meter switch or in the flash connection.

Yes, I use a Lens hood on all my lenses, but some if not all of these 7 photos were taken with a Mamiya Sekor 135 lens for a Spotmatic II or a Spotmatic SP. I hope that isn't the problem.

My Pentax Spotmatic which has been serviced in the last 5-6 years has developed a light leak. I would like to know what you think. It was on 7 frames this last roll. And it appears to be related to the shutter releasing as the leak is on solo frames with some bleed to the next frame. The horizontal band seem crazy as this camera has a vertical shutter. Thanks you in advance.

 

Yes, it has those, thanks a million that will solve my problem.

Thank you, I can get the front open, but I can't slide the lens and bellows out. There has to be a key, latch, button, trick to slide it forward.

The Icarette is in pretty good condition for a 1920s camera, but I can't open the lens and bellows. If anyone can tell me how to do this thank you in advance.

Actually I do that too. Each image is edited by me AND my boss, when we decide he likes it then we send to the publishing staff. My concern is the publishing staff then does whatever they like to the image: this is goes way beyond the three examples you provided. But as I said I won't have this problem much longer. I remember reading the Henri Cartier-Bresson put a black border around each of his prints to protect them from unsolicited editing.

Thanks for your reply, fishing around on the internet, I don't see anything that will provide this feature. Like you say I can just quit, which I will be doing.

I only use digital cameras for volunteer work at a local theater, so I'm not familiar with privacy techniques. Recently when I've submitted a file someone on the production staff makes changes to my files. I am wondering if I can secure or block my jpeg files so that this doesn't happen. I use PSE6 and begin my workflow with DNG (RAW) files, Thank you for any response.

<p>I wonder if everyone will be going through a shoebox on SD cards in the future?</p>

<p>This is about a P&S Pentax camera (DIGITAL).<br>

http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/oddnews/fisherman-reels-in-camera-with-working-memory-card-filled-with-5-years-of-photos-190028365.html?vp=1</p>

<p>Correct, it is on the right but I guess I was thinking of before it was rotated to normal.</p>

<p>Well, thanks for that. At least it isn't "un-rebuildable."</p>

<p>Thanks, all the CLAs were done in California and by different people. One was a curtain replacement. I do appreciate the curtain brake comment as I have something to at least tell the person that I send it to. You would think my IIIf was a beater, but I bought it 50 years ago and haven't even put a ding in it. To me it is a clean camera. Really the only problems I've had from it have been with the shutter.</p>

<p>I have CLA'd my IIIf 3 times in the last 6 years and I'm getting tired of it. But here is a shutter problem that I wonder if anyone knows how to correct. This is a recent image and this vertical area on the left only occurs at some shutter speeds.<br>

<img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3769/11653322035_6ae57b366f.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Thanks for you help.</p>

 

<p>This is just an update, I won't go through all the research. The bottom line is I adjusted the curtain tension following these instructions, reading text around L3:<br>

http://www.pentax-manuals.com/manuals/service/screw_mount_leicas.pdf<br>

Neither, screw to the worm gear looked like it had ever been touched. There was dried grease around both. Now I have a nicely working IIIf shutter.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I agree, but I've done that once three times. Then I gave up. I have had the camera for 50 years and always have had it serviced regularly. For some reason now I can't get them to do anything but CLA. So maybe I'll let it sit until I go to LA for a stay and travel to their shop.</p>

<p>Thanks Mukul, and Gus, the symptoms are uneven exposure from side to side. There is also sometimes a line of underexposure at one end of the frame. And yes, I would like to talk to someone in person.</p>

<p>I know this is a long shot, but I few years ago I had a shutter replaced on my IIIf. This was done in LA. I ended up sending it back and forth three times. I has never been right but now that I've cooled down, I would like it adjusted. I don't feel like dealing with LA again, so is there a repair person in the San Francisco Bay Area that could do this? Thanks in advance.</p>