paul_sanderson
-
Posts
5 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by paul_sanderson
-
-
I've just realised that part of Ian's original query hasn't been answered - why is it that easy
add-on attachments for SLRs are so uncommon?
The answer to that is that camera producers are only to well aware that not only is stereo
photography a minority interest (and therefore not much profit) compared to the rest of
photography, but even within that narrow field it waxes and wanes in interest too. So while
major manufacturers may make a beam-splitter attachment to fit their lenses and a
suitable viewer - so that their range is complete - they will never make many of them
simply because they know they won't sell many of them.
And because of that I suspect the manufacturers don't put their best technical efforts into
whatever they do in that direction - half-frame images from my Pentax beam-splitter,
when seen through the matching Pentax viewer, are just not as good as the ones taken
with my Kodak Stereo and viewed through a 'proper' stereo viewer. And it's worse with
prints - my dedicated-to-stereo Loreo kit produces 6x4 prints to be viewed in the
supplied Loreo viewer, but you can see the grain of the paper and the whole image looks
decidedly unsharp. Undoubtedly, the plastic lenses in the camera and viewer - though
excellent of their type, I'm sure - are merely adequate in the grand scheme of things.
You may well think that a stereo view is so spectacular in comparison to a normal 2-D
view that surely the market for 3-D would explode if only Joe Public could regularly see
sharp, full-colour 3-D imagery rather than the blurry red-blue anaglyphs they see on
cereal packets or in kids' books - and it would be in the photographic industry's interest
to ensure that happened. But the same problem always gets in the way when it comes to
stereo - you always need special viewing arrangements to see the 3-D effect. It may be an
electrical viewer, or one you merely hold up to a strong light, or it may be polarised specs
for everyone in a theatre audience where stereo views are being projected onto a screen,
but always one needs special equipment to see the effect. And, generally, people can't be
bothered.
My neighbours all have cameras and have taken photos all their lives, and they are
thunderstruck when they first put their eyes to my stereo viewer. But not one has shown
any inclination to take 3-D pics themselves.
Paul Sanderson, Beckenham, Kent
-
I've been buying USA stuff on eBay for a couple of years now, taking advantage of the very
favourable rate of monetary exchange if you're here in the UK. Mainly I've been buying
stereo photography stuff that, pre-Internet, was just too expensive here in the UK.
However, it does mean that UK residents are more inclined to go higher with their bids, or
happily pay for goods with higher profit margins attached, since it still seems cheap. Not
only that, Bill, you might get some quiet satisfaction to learn that there is an import tax
based on weight and declared value for all goods entering the UK, so the cheap purchase
coming from the USA could turn out to be 20 GBP($40) more expensive than first thought!
For any UK readers of this intending to use eBay USA, it's a sliding scale, and so small,
lightweight items attract practically no tax (or no tax at all).
Paul, London UK
-
If you are thinking of dabbling in stereo, as indicated above it's definitely better to have a
dedicated stereo camera rather than an add-on system such as a beam-splitter. I started
out with a beam splitter for a Pentax K1000, then a Loreo camera (both of which I still
have).
But once the Internet came along and it was suddenly possible to shop in the USA at half
the price of here in the UK, then I soon got myself a Kodak Stereo camera. There are
always many available on eBay and in fact I, er, ended up with six! Don't ask me why, I
don't have a sensible answer! Slightly more expensive are the Stereo Realists, but the
Kodak Stereo to my eyes looks nicer and also has a built-in spirit level - very important for
stereo shooting. Both use ordinary 35mm transparency and I use Ektachrome 100G, since
the grain is so fine that you can scan the nearly-half-frame trannies if need be and still
get decent results at a decent size.
Both Stereo Realist and Kodak Stereo were built for 50 ASA film, so a slight downside is
that it's best if you use a light meter since it's inevitable that you'll be using a different
speed film. I've never handled a Stereo Realist, but the Kodak certainly has picture icons
on the casing to enable the users to set the camera to sunny, overcast, etc, as well as set
the focus distance (there is no through-the-lens focusing). But that's for 50 ASA of course.
The film is processed normally (E6) with instructions not to cut. Once upon a time the
stereo pairs would come back ready-mounted, but nowadays you have to do it yourself on
the kitchen table. If you use plastic RBT mounts (currently 15 GBP for 50 plus postage) it's
a doddle once you've done the first one. Very cheap plastic viewers can be bought on eBay
(I carry one with a stereo pair in it for when passers-by get curious about my strange
camera), but backlighting battery-powered viewers with proper optical lenses and
focusing are much, much better. The Stereo Realist 'red button' viewer (it has achromatic
lenses) is said to be the Rolls Royce of such viewers; Kodak's own aren't so good but do
look nicely 1950s. I also have a Revere Stereo 22 viewer which looks even more 1950s!
Paul Sanderson, Beckenham, UK
-
Jeff - the Kodak Stereo is a great camera... I've got six of them!
I've been using mine since Christmas and have filled a box with
the slides I've mounted. I've also been collecting ye olde Realist
format slides from the 1950s/'60s (USA and European), though
that interest has tailed off now that I'm doing more of my own.
Still, all my neighbiours are agog at the lifelike views of the past -
their knowledge of stereo is a Snow White And The Seven
Dwarves disc in a ViewMaster.
You'll need to mount the slides yourself, but with RBT slide
mounts it's very easy. You'll also need a light meter. Get in touch
if you want to know more practical stuff.
Regards, Paul Sanderson (London, UK)
sandy@dircon.co.uk
Scanning stereo negatives
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
I too have come to this thread late (four years late!) but for anyone else finding this and
needing an answer, I use the Minolta Dimage Scan Multi Pro scanner in our studio.
My Kodak Stereo images are already mounted in plastic RBT frames, and it's a simple
matter to slip one end of a mounted pair into the end of the slide-holder that is meant for
already-mounted slides - because the end of that slide-holder is open, whereas the end of
the six loose slides-holder is not. You scan one end, then turn the slide mount and scan
the image that's at other end. One image will obviously be upside-down compared to the
other, and to allow for any positioning errors it's best to marquee a scan area bigger than
the visible frame, but all that can be sorted out in Photoshop.
I use a nice fine grain transparency such as Ektachrome 100G and the results are easily
good enough for 6x4 prints. In fact the scanner might do better than that for the stereos -
it's just about good enough for up to A4 from a full 35mm frame but I've never had any
need to find out from the stereo half-frames.