jhall

My answer is simple.

I do this all the time.

I use a 20D and 1ds Mark II

Canon Software is O.K. (at best)

Use Phase one's Capture one Software....

Oh I use a Powerbook and I don't think C1 is available for PC users.

PB displays are great... though it's still a LCD and If your working on color sensitive images

you need a CRT which I plug into my PB. There is no difference in quality between 15 and

17.... Just size. BTW mine is the 17.

Thanks you michael. I suspected most of what you explained. The one gleaming point I've

missed is that each stacked image is 1/2 the other. This all makes great sense now.

Thankyou.

Ya, I did that and haven't really found what I'm looking for... Thought someone around

here may have a more tailored response.

Recently been doing some longer exposures with my 20D. With respect to the increased

amount of noise, I've done a little research on "stacking exposures". From what I

understand it's a pretty common practice amongst astophotographers. Can

anyone point me to some good tutorials and or step by step explanations of this

procedure?

I'm an avid Photoshop users so the methods including this piece of software I'm paticulary

interested in.

All depends on the viewing distance. Currently there are prints that are +/- 70X44

hanging in the window where I work. If you were to put you nose up to it you'd notice

quality probs but on the street it looks great.

Yep, I'd bet just about anything that's dust... Just to make sure see if it appears in ALL your

images in the same place.

I agree with the "tools" analogy. I'll add my 2cents though. I work at a commercial studio

where we have 3 in house post production employees who edit, silo, shadow, color

correct, you name it.

It's ~almost~ taboo to use levels on 99% of the post production situations. Why? It's much

like useing the 'hue slider' in 'hue adn saturation'. It eliminates information and can totally

wipe out information on R,G or B channel (or CMYK for that matter).

Curves are used 90% of the time. However, If you KNOW where/what your images are

going to used for and how big... It may not be an issue at all. Levels have thier place but

they really shouldn't replace curves.

FWIW if you know the color wheel you CAN grasp curves :)

Well, Seeing as photo.net requires that you "save for web" in order to upload pictures, I

can see how this can happen. My Images always look more 'washed' when I save that way.

Seems that you problems are far more serious though..

Good Question... I always assumed they did. At any rate I shoot "average" across the board

anyway.

Anyone use the CS raw plugin to covert raws. I use it with with the cr2's from my 20D and

have been happy with the results thus far. I've heard that the canon software yields 'less

noisy" results.

Anyone experience such results?

Someone else around here said this about the 16-35 compared to the 17-40:

The 16-35 is on all accounts 1% better and 100% more expensive. If you don't need the

extra stop then the extra 700 bucks is a REAL wast of money. You can always pick up a

fast prime(or two) for that kind of cash.

I love my 17-40, sure it has limitations but doesn't every lens? 17-40 is a reasonable

zoom. With all these zooms spanning 100+ mm I'd be concerned with the sacrifice of

sharpness...

"Most commercial photographers wouldn't use an f4 lens if you gave them one"

I must be abnormal then? If you need more light then primes are the way to go. f4 is a

pretty good for the quality zooms canon makes.

No converter... 20D has 1.6 crop factor to consider (the chip is smaller). These are things

you may or may not know. Only way to get wider is to 'get a wider lense'.

BTW, why not just back up and then shoot the trays?

Well, technically still one exposure... But PS has all but eliminated the 'need' for double

exposures.

Why would you want the 350 if you can get the 20D? BTW, all this talk about the 20D price

dropping -- I'm not sure I buy it. It may fall (like any camera does) but just b/c the 5D is

now released I don't see why it'll push the 20D price down.

Film will be around for a while... No use debating that -- it's been a dead horse for a long

time.

Actually, there are digital options that match the size 4x5 film... There called digital backs.

I shoot commercially and use three different digital backs for 4x5s daily. The cost

however, is astronomical ;)

Seeing as I'm looking to pick up a canon 20D body and a L series lens at the same time,

does anyone know where (or if) such kits exist.

I've seen a couple, but at less then reputable places...

Scott, I believe you are preaching to the choir, your points are duelly noted, although

already embraced.

They 'real debate' here was whether the Sigma SD10 can produce images suitable (or

comparable to LF digital) for Extra Large printing.

Justin, I agree with you -- the film digital debate is fight fit for cats and dogs. However,

this debate was Digital VS. digital... ie. 4X5 back Vs. DSLR.

Thanks Troy, some interesting insight(s) there. I've never ~owned~ an enlarger either,

though QUITE familiar with them. To be honest, I haven't shot film in over a year. With 2

Sinar 4x5's and my 20D at hand, well it's just that easy.

Fact of the matter I'm relatively "new" to Photography. I've been shooting for years, though

commercially roughly 3 -- and it wasn't until then did I really become friendly with 4x5's.