rich_davis3

<p>Four are Win 7 and 1 is Vista. I have a Windows Home Server on a sixth machine.</p>

<p>To be more specific, it would be wonderful if I could open a Lightroom type program and see everything. If that's possible (I'm not a whiz with LR) I'm not sure how to do it.</p>

<p>I have 5 computers that are networked and use each of them. What I need is a way to organize everything across all drives and machines.</p>

<p>There must be something which works without resorting to a kludge.</p>

<p>Chas, I have that monitor and I think it qualifies as "good". The problem is that Kimberly is looking for something which doesn't exist, namely a big and cheap monitor that's good enough to base your livelihood around. <br /> The choice becomes quality or quantity. In this case it's far better to work with a smaller screen (and I have no problem with a 22") than a big one which gives less than satisfactory results. It's just not possible for a lower bit inferior panel to be as good as an IPS.</p>

<p>I have the same setup as you Chas and everything works well. I wonder if it's some fluke of the software, but I can't say.</p>

<p>As far as prints go, a lot depends on the printer itself. Depending on who and what does the printing I get dead on to awful with the same image file.</p>

<p>Maybe I'm lucky, but I find that in most situations setting my Canon to Av mode does the trick. Digital cameras have three variables, not two like with film. 95% of the time I have a particular depth of field I want to have in focus, and I'll adjust the ISO if subject speed is an issue. It's true that this has it's limits (1600 will not be as good as 100), however we photographers often pick an ISO and stick with it, because that's what we did with film.<br>

That does not mean that I never use manual mode, because I shoot night scenes, and I often have to leave the shutter open longer than the camera will allow. Yes I know that this is "B" for the time setting, however it is manual control of aperture and time. Also, night scenes offer their own challenge, since the dynamic range of the scene combined with the inherent inaccuracies of automated exposure at low light render anything but manual problematic.<br>

I'll also use it for panoramas, because you want constant exposure across the image. Moving the camera will cause problems. It just does.<br>

Lastly, when I make an HDR image of a landscape I'll go manual to assure consistencies of exposure and depth of field. The fewer variables one has to contend with, the better.</p>