andy_blagbrough

<p>Interesting price positioning of the D600 here in Britain. Prices are around £1,970 which seems quite a lot when compared to the D800 at around £2,230. Amazon's price difference is only £225. Is the D800 only 11% better than the D600? On this basis the D600 is £500 overpriced, but more importantly, who are Nikon aiming it at?<br>

<br />Andy B</p>

<p>Ian,</p>

<p>I bought a 500mm/f8 lens some years ago. It was harly used and not a bad price. I do not use it much and often with a teleconverter, so need lots of light. Although not optically fantastic, or fast, it is good for those long distance shots that I can not get any other way. See attached example.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi,<br>

I am thinking of buying an SK-6A side bracket for my SB24 Speedlight, but am unable to find out if it will work on an FM3a. Anyone any idea if they are compatible? Personally, I would be surprised if it did not.<br>

Ta, AndyB</p>

<p>Donald,<br>

I use an SB-15 with my FM3a. It is compact and has enough poer for most situations. As they as now quite old, they are reasonably cheap. The flash has Manual, Auto and TTL settings.<br>

Andrew</p>

<p>Hi Louis,<br>

I gather from your profile that you are based in the UK. This make life very simple - buy Ilford and get it processed by them. They are now owned by Harman and processing is carried out in Crewe. Here is the website:<br>

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/wheretobuy/page.asp?n=145<br>

I have been using Delta 400 for a while now and it has a good contrast. Unfortunately, it is too grainy for the work I do so, after 40 years away from it, I am soon to revert to FP4 with some experimentation with SFX 200.<br>

All the best in using B&W.</p>

<p>AndyB</p>

<p>Ray,</p>

<p>By "this site" I assume you mean the forum. I use Camino successfully so you should not have problems with either that browser, or Firefox.</p>

<p>Hi Jon,<br>

I too acquired a brand new FM2n and wondered what to do with my old, worn but working one. It was easy - use both! I have different lenses on each and quickly swap between the 2 when shooting. Often I have load B/W film in one for those 'special shots'. Like most luxuries in liife, you will soon wonder how you managed with only one camera body.</p>

<p>Regards<br>

Andy Blagbrough</p>

Hi Boris,

Firstly, I'll give you the advice most people do when asked lens questions for MF bodies. Look at the following website - it is VERY useful.

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/

Look at the bottom of the page for index to the lenses.

Secondly, Look for the 43-85 zoom and/or the 80-200. I use both and find them both good optical quality. The former is superior to the 35-70 zoom, its only downside being f3.5. For 15 years it was my only lens.

Stuart,

Hope you are still looking at the responses after the massive amount of good advice you received so promptly. It's good to now the MF film users are following this site still.

My advice is different to the others and based your 2 main criteria - cost and novice status. Also, I live on the same side of the pond as you so understand that prices have not fallen as much as they should. For lens, go for the 30-70 zoom. Not one of nikons best, but you are developing technique and this is lightweight, cheap and easy to focus. The following site is must for all MF nikon users:

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2n/fm2manual/index.htm

This is the FM2 page, but scroll down to the bottom for links to lenses. Grays of Westminster are the best for equipment. Top quality at top prices. Campkins in Cambridge are good to deal with, but again, overpriced for the current market. I suggest that you poke around the internet to find equipment/dealers near you. Despite some peoples' views, ebay is a good place to shop.

As for film, Fuji for colour and Ilford for B&W. I use the new(ish) delta B&W from Ilford as I like the low grain and high contrast. Try the ISO 400. Processing is a problem. There are still places who will send it away for you, but I prefer to do that myself and cut out the middleman and his percentage. Look on the internet for a pro-lab. Remember to send the film recoded/special delivery as the Post Office lost 4 rolls of film from a trip to Mull! I would also recommend you get a CD made when the film is processed. Much easier than scanning in prints.

Finally, welcome to the world of film where you have to think about what you are doing.

Andy B

Trevor,

Yes, I have dealt with them in the past. Not cheap, BUT you get quality and expertise.

Andy B

Hi Donald,

I use an SB-15 as my general purpose flash with the FM3a and an SB-24 when I want more

power/control. Where in he UK are you? I bought mine in Cambridge - Campkins will

probably have a good selection. The problem I have found in the UK is that dealers still

think Nikon film equipment is still worth as much as it did pre-digital days.

Hope this is of help,

Andy B

Here is an online manual.

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2n/

fm2manual/index.htm

I have in the past been to a website with the manual on file, but can not remember when

or where. Have tried internet searching?

Andy B

I use a Kennet monopod with a rubber head for easy panning and find it is rigid enough.

The Benbo trekker monopod id lighter and should be OK.

Andy B

The SB-27 may be getting "long in the tooth", but that is not necessarily the problem. I am

using a much older version, the SB-15 and it works well. The problem may be the camera.

What are you using? If you can, try working in manual mode for both camera and flash. If it

works fine, then start to change the setting on the camera to automatic. Then repeat

keeping the camera on manual and play with the flash settings. Hopefully, you can find the

combination which is causing the problems.

Let us know how you get on and the forum should be able to offer more help.

Andy B

All good pro equipment, so if undamaged it should last quite awile. Price is VERY GOOD

compared to UK where people still think it's a sellers market.

The question is, "do you actually want it?". I presume you are film based and this is an

upgrade you intend to use for a number of years.

As the seller is prepared to meet you, then you can try it all out before buying. If it looks

good, shoot off a roll, give her a deposit, get the film processed. If you are still happy,

then pay the difference and get it posted to you, or go and collect it.

You have not mentioned a lens with it, so I assume you have your own. Take the biggest

with you to test the body.

Let us know how you get on,

Andy B

What body and lens are you using, and what exposure settings? If you used flash, which

one would it be? Also, how much are you pushing the ISO rating?

Sorry that my reply is asking lots of questions, but without knowing how you are using

what equipment, it is difficult to give a good answer.

However, try using the flash and see what difference that makes. You may be srprised just

how little you distract the players.

Andy B

I went from FE to a new FM3a about 3 years ago, before digital was a viable option. I then

wanted a second body and spent a lot of time deciding between FE2 and FM2. I eventally

settled on the FM because:

1. I intend to use it for quite few years and was unsure about how long the FE2 electronics

will last as most of the cameras I looked at were about 15-20 years old.

2. The apperture priority loss was not serious as the FM2 compliments my FM3

3. The FMs were in beter condition than the FEs and both were about the same prices.

Dissadvantages of the FM over the FE2 are:

1. No TTL flash. It's not the end of the world, but an issue.

2. Exposure indication is not as good (my opinion - others dissagree, its a personal thing)

To get more advice, you need to address the following:

1. Will you be getting rid of your F4 and F5 in part-exchange for a DSL? If so, then think

seriously about a good condition F3HP. I personally have problems with the slow flash

sync.

2. Will you be using the FM2/FE2 as a backup, or for when you "want to do something

different"? If backup. then the FE2 would be better as you may need the TTL and AP. If you

want to be 'creative' then the FM2n as it makes you think more.

3. Are yo sure you really want a film camera as well as digital? My experience with other

photographers has been that once they made the change and go into thinking/

manipulation digital, then never used there film gear again. If you want a second camera,

go for a small digital.

As far as lenses and accessories are concerned, there in nothing between them, other than

flash.

Hope all the above help you to make up your mind.

Andy B

None what so ever. Especially if it comes with a lens. Assuming, of course, you actually

want/need one. It will last you as long as film is still around.

Ah, well, if we are bidding. When you get it, I'll give you 125 pounds sterling for the

camera and lens combination. And I promise to USE IT as a companion to my FM3a.

I have seen an unsed, boxed, etc, combination with matching serial numbers on sale for

�995!. It has been available for a while and I suspect it will remain so. As you are asking

for advice, mine is only buy it if you are prepared to sell it at no gain. I feel that the

collectors market for film cameras is rapidly dying. For investment, use the money and buy

something made of silver.

For 10 years the 43-86 zoom was my only lens. It came with the FE I bought in 1989. I

was and am quite happy with it. It is not outstanding, but a good general lens. It has been

said that there were quality issues and that some lenses were better than others. In my

opinion, it is far better than the more modern, lightweight 35-70.

Attached is photo of the mechanism of a steam engine<div></div>

Yes, the TC-16A does work on FM2 and FM3a, but not with all MF lenes. It seems to only

be happy with AIS lens over 100mm. I use it with the 500mm f8 reflex and 80-200 zoom.

The metering still works fine. The way to check is to try and mount the tele-converter onto

a lens and if it needs forcing, THEN STOP.

You need a 1.5V silver-oxide cell. Look at this site for info on the FT2, it is the best Nikon

sites around for MF cameras

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikkormat/fseries/ft2

First of all, what are you going to use the lens for? I do landscape, sunset/sea pictures

with a nikon 500mm f8 reflex. Sometimes using a TC-16A - see attached picture for

example. This is a very powerful setup for not too much money. It is also fairly

straightforward to lug across country with a rigid, lightweight tripod. If you are after fast

shutter speeds with good depth of field, then of course non-reflex is the way you must go.

Hope this is of some help.<div></div>

I think your paranoia is possibly misplaced. The FM3a is an old fashioned looking camera

and is therefore assumed to be of not value to the undesirables who inhabit some of the

areas you go to take pictures. If you bought a nearly new one, it would last you a good 20

years barring accidents, after which there probably will not be any film left to buy. A

shorter term option is a second-hand FE2. In the UK, they are over-priced, but elsewhere

they are good value.