minush

<p>I lost my charger for transistor pack E and I want to know if anyone has a charger and tell me the riding of the output power of the charger<br>

so I can find a replacement.<br>

Thank you Minush</p>

Well Tommy first you need a another lens (zoom 24-70 preferably) and take your film camera

with you just in case.

Remember don't let your equipment overwhelm you, learn it well. People took and still take

photos with medium format cameras with one manual focusing lens and pictures come out

sharp and amazing.

So my advice is don't get caught up in equipment but tray to be creative and capture the

moment, be different and you will be fine.

Ej and use program if you have to(if first wedding) it will let you focus on the moment and

not your camera.

Well I have the same camera and as far as I know if AF is left in automatic the camera will

use the center point point for spot metering.

As for your second question I have no idea but it should not be hard to find out.

Find a contrasty situation were the center point is in the dark and the outside is on the

light.... you get the idea.

1D Mark II n and 70-200 2.8 IS.

I love that combination.

I have a Gary Fong's light sphere and I love it.

I used in all of my weddings and all my pictures and pictures come very good, light is soft

with no harsh shadows.

BTW it looks very ugly and people will stere at you but the results are worth it.

Well I am very new to medium format cameras and film cameras in general but I come

across this very nice Fuji GSW690 III and I love it it makes me feel like photographer and

not some computer geek with a digital camera.

So my question is this how do I make an exposure longer than a second.

It has a T in the under exposer change but I am not sure what it is or how to worked.

I am assuming it is bulb but it does not work like a regular camera will "hold and the

shooter will stay open".

Again this may be a stupid question but I am new to this so don't laugh and say this dam

kids only know computers and don't know any thing about real cameras.:-)

Any way thanks in advance

Minushi

I work in a photo lab and my main job is to print enlargements bider than 24"-....

So to your question on the maximum size you can print is? What ever size you like.

I have professionals that use 8x10 cameras and they will laugh at 20x30 from 8MP and

then I have professionals that make 30x40 on 6MP and they are happy so all I am trying to

say is all depends how picky you are.

BTW in my opinion if shot raw and in adobe RGB and printed in adobe RGB 20x30 and even

24x36 looks phenomenal.

I hate to say it but I have 8.2mp EOS 1d mk2 and your d2x holds much beater when

enlarging stuff but I hate the auto white balance on that thing I never got good colors

strait from the camera.

I have the IS version and I love it.

Money well spend for me.

My friend they will not work at all, the images will be very blurry but the lens will fit.

The Tamron lenses have to say "Di" on them to work with digital.

I fell in this trap with Tamron 28-200.

I mostly shoot weddings and the pic in the banquet hall I shoot with slow shooter 1/15 or

slower.

I like the effect but the light between my flash and tungsten really gives me a hard time to

color correct.

Yes I did tray to costume white balance with very little success.

So my question is this is there a way to put filter on my flash so it will give light more

towards the tungsten temperature and then balance the hole thing.

I use Canon 1D mk 2n, 580ex, 24-70 and a gary fong light sphere.

Well I had the same problem but Gary Fong light sphere did the job for me.

It looks very ugly but it works. It gives a nice light to the subject and the the background.

You don't need a low ceiling for this and if you want you cant set multiple flashes around

the hall and trigger them wirelessly.

And also tray to use rear synch curtain mode.

www.garyfong.com

I am not sure if is louder but I know it has a more compact sound not slappy like the 20D.

And yes I do think is to loud for a top of the line camera.

I have just purchased a Transistor Pack E and in the very poor written manual a can't seem

to find how long and how do I know the battery is charged.

After some web search last night i found out that you need to charge it for 15H, did that

and still no lock.

The pilot light in the battery is constant red and did not change after recharge. Do i need

to keep batteries in the flash all the time?

If any one owns a battery like this please help me determine if I got a bad product or just

don't know what I am doing.I have a 580ex if that helps

Thanx Minush

I love my 70-200 IS.

it really is a phenomenal feature.

I live and work on CT so NY is uncharted territory for me and I have to ask photographers

in that area about the best place to photograph bride and a groom in NY city not the state.

Now I traid the botanical garden but no luck so any place you suggest well be welcome.

Thanks Minush

Well my friend I think that waiting for the 5D i a smart idea.

12 MP full frame sensor and it has a fool frame sensor, viewfinder is brighter and it make

a big difference following the animals in the wild and if nothing you can crop as mach as

you wont because you have 12MP.

And I think is plenty fast coming from D60

I am using a conon 20D with 24-70 lens and 580ex flash on weddings and all my shots

are under exposed specially ones inside.

I take about 600 pic in a weeding so to PS all of them is impossible but even when

photoshop still they dont have the snappiness or the quality of 35-mm.

Now I am not trying to compare digital to analog but to me the look well not professional.

I am suspecting is the ETTL II.

So my question is is there e way to not use ETTL II and is any body else having this

problem.

And if I go with a 1D mk II is there a big difference in this mater.

Thanx

Well I have 3 lenses only: 15mm, 24-70 2.8L and 70-200 2.8 IS and a 1.6 extender.

If you are happy with 70-200 just get a 1.6X or 2X extender much cheeper and works

great with L lenses or should I say I am happy with mine.

Good lock

I got a lot of pic in my comp(over 12000) and i was wondering what is the best software to

organize my photos.

Something simple and effective some thing like I photo but for a PC.

Well my friend you look like you have a lot of desicions to make and a lot of options but I

will tell you what I have and what works for me.

Glass:

24-70 2.8L

70-20 2.8L IS

and a 2X extender

I did have the rebel 300D an updated to 20D.The 20D is a great camera fast an good

resolution but in my opinion the pic is as good as the lens you have on.

So get the 70-200 IS(I think the best lens canon makes) first and wait for the price of the

20D to drop and the you get it.

I have a filing the price is going to drop because the had a rebate on the 20D and when

they do rebates the price always drops on the product.

If camera is under a warrenty why tray doing it yourself and it might void the warrenty so

just send it to Canon.

Right now I have no camera, I dropped my 20D and good thing only the body broke and

not my 70-200IS lens.

I shoot a lot of events weddings and children so I was wondering if any body can help to

make my decision easier.

New 1d Mark or used 1ds.

Now both will cost me about the same and I will love the extra resulution on 1ds but I

don't know I am lost.

You think is smart baying a used DIGITAL camera.

Thanx Minush