dariusz calkowski

I selected 100 from canon and never looked back.

Mine is very sharp but at 300 I need to stop down to F7.1 - F8 to get the best at 100% view. In portrait mode is slightly softer with blured the top and the bottom but it's the other known story.

I'm not sure about 5D focussing system but it's similar to 20D. When you use lens with mex aperture larger then 5.6 aspecialy 1.2 with very thiny DOF only central focus point is hight sensivity. So mayby better is to use only central af and live the camera on one shot or servo. AI servo (automate inteligence?)isn't so much inteligent and fast like a Servo. With * AF you can have AI servo with your own inteligence. Of course not always central AF point is on the eye and moving it can kill the composition but that's the limitations of not 1-serie AF system.

My 70-300 as well shows problem without the need for shooting charts, but I didn't send it - in portrait it's great. I prefer to use it and wait till canon will sort it out.

Interesting. How lens can change the burst buffer? I'll try my 20D with various lenses.

At the wide end wide opened(F4) it's not a sharp lens. F 5.6 makes them better and F8 even more better. Inside iso 400- what times of exposure are you getting? If more then 1/60-1/40s for mooving subjects don't expect sharp pictures. IS can't stop people's from mooving. You can get sharp pictures even with 1/4s but only stationary objects. Is enought light inside? I find often that even during the day I need ISO800 in dimmer rooms (I live in dull England). At the night ISO 1600-3200 (and 100watts bulb is required with 17-85. It's not a fast lens like the 70-200 F2.8.

Are you using DPP? It can display raw in mono, but click on any other picture parameter(like faithful,landscape etc) and you'll see all the colours. In PS should be colour from the start.

Hello. My question is how much better is AF in tracking mode with 300f4LIS VS

my 70-300IS on 20D body. Will I get much more keepers? If now I can get 10%

sharp pictures will I get 20% or 50%? Is it night and day? Or should I get 1d

body(no chance with my funds). Second question is how does it(300f4) in servo

with 1.4 converter? Third question:Is possible to use 70-300 with tamron or

kenko tc and get AF? I read various opinions, some said yes, some said that it

hunts on 20D. If yes what about servo? I dont think it works but mayby... Thank

you for your help.

Yes send it. If it's with all your lenses it's probably body problem and recalibration should fix it. One guy in service center told me that it's common problem with 20D (though he said that BF is more common).

Shot raw and then boost colours in conversion(or later in PS). I don't know F100 but 20D-30D won't give you stright from the camera such vibrant colours like point-and-shoot cameras(of course F100 isn't p$s camera but mayby nikon DSLR boost on board colours more). If you have to shoot jpeg try boosting saturation on camera, but it won't give you so nice and real colours like good converted raw with carefull WB. Best regards Dariusz.

Ups, sorry for typos.

300f2.8LIS+1.4TC(kenko or tamron if you want to save few GBP) Best is that in germany price of 300f2.8LIS in Euro is only few hundreds more or mayby even equal to english price in pounds. I don't know why but they have really US prices in opposition to UK rip offs. Leter you can add 2x TC. You will have 2 excellent and 1 very good primes for the price of one. All with IS and AF on all canon bodys. (And you'll be really happy man until you'll realise that600f$lLIS+1.4TC is longer and better)

Yes. Becouse new are better opticaly. Not now becouse of what Mark U said(and many others-including me)

Exacly. Circular aperture reminds circular only when lens are wide or almost wide opened. Yakim add to your list our 70-300IS.

My copy have same problem, but I don't use it much in portrait orientation. Probably I'll take refund from canon(if possible)after summer holidays, and try to save for 300f4LIS.

http://www.mikaelwardhana.com/photo/comparison.jpg This guy compared directy C 70-200f4 and S 100-300 f4.

Get now used 16-35mm, use it on 20D and wait. Prices still going down, new bodies will come and go, but good lenses keep value. Later you can sell(with little loss) or keep 16-35 when you'll go FF and 24-70mm.

Seems that new lenses are soft, aren't even better then kit lens. Are you sure is all in focus?

(around 35GBP, I guess; around $70USD here in the US)

Ethan here in UK thinks aren't so easy :-( It's about 75-80gbp actually-but it's worth every penny. All lenses are much, much higher priced than in US. Sometimes it's almoust the same price like in US just different currency. And it's in cheapest good internet shops. Alex. Buy one good lens and slowly save for next. If you need telephoto - here 70-300IS(370gbp in warehouseexpress) is almoust 100 cheaper than 70-200f4(in US and some Uk shops are similar.) It's very good lens for price if you'll get a good copy. Sigmas apo 70-300 are not bed but no IS. If you need macro first, get 100f2.8-best canon lens below 400gbp.For macro sigma 100 and tamron 90 are cheaper and optically as good. Save and be patient. It's much better build slowly but with quality then get crap in hurry and upgrading than. Wide angle-for now 18-55 shoul be ok. Search links provided higher, check prices, and don't rush.

I'm not sure , but I think that sigma's AF can't equal to canon's usm in terms of speed and mayby accuracy as well.

Get as fast glass as possible. Get IS only if you can't get fast ones. Long lenses benefits more from IS. Why not 300f4LIS +1.4tcon?

It's something common with digital-dirty sensor. Just learn how to clean it(or use spot healing brush in PS).

You can use flash compensation button.For fill flash set it beetween -1 and-2. You can't do it with custom function-but make sure that in A-mode there is cn 03 set on 09(auto).

Yes it's great.

"Optical quality: To my great surprise, they are equal. Sharp wide open and very minimal flare. It was a major surprise for me to see an ultra-wide, with its much more complicated design, so flare resistant."

 

Yakim. My bet is fisheye. I can see vignetting in test. What about corner sharpnes? You'll use it for landscapes so you'll need it. I'm sceptical that 1.6 design can beat FF even after defishing on 1.3 camera. And you'll have fish when you'll like it. And brighter view. And larger DOF. And FF compability in the not foreseeable future. And you are prime guy,aren't you? Good luck.