steve torelli
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Posts posted by steve torelli
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IQ will always suffer when adding a TC, especially so with a 2X TC as compared to any lens' native focal length. I've never really been happy with the results from any 70-200 that I've ever owned and the 1.4 TC combo. The TCs work best with the tele primes. If I were you, I'd get the 100-400, like John said, you'll still be at 5.6 with the 70-200 and that will be throughout its focal range. The 100-400 is a little faster at its wide end. The IQ will be better too.
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I've owned both of them, currently the f/4IS. If I were a wedding shooter I'd go with the 2.8IS for the many reasons previously stated. But for anything else, IMO the f/4IS is a little sharper and has at least as good color and contrast. It's lighter and smaller and for general photography the one stop difference isn't much as I don't consider 2.8 max aperture a low light lens. AFA focusing, even in evening light, I've never found the f/4 lacking. Of course the advantage of the 2.8 in a church is that it will let you get a little more shutter speed. Horses for courses, for weddings I'd go with the faster lens. For every thing else, I can make up that stop on my 5D with an ISO bump with no noticeable increase in noise.
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Forgot to mention, in case you didn't know, the Canon FD MF lenses will not work on your camera without an adapter, which is either very expensive, causes image degradation, or both.
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Any EOS lens, manual focus, like the three current T&S lenses, or otherwise will work on your xti. So will the current EF-s lenses. AFA third party lenses, it depends a lot on their vintage. Some Sigmas, for example, need to be re-chipped to work on later model DSLR bodies such as yours. Good luck.
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Are you just shooting JPEGs or RAW and doing your own post processing? If you're shooting JPEG there's no telling what each cameras settings are therefore no way to make any kind of accurate assessment. AFA "a lot of images using "L" lenses being post processed" I can only say that most people shooting with a 5D, or a 40D for that matter and using the quality of lenses you have are shooting RAW and processing their images rather than shooting in camera JPEGS. Shooting JPEGs in a camera like that with lenses like that is like using regular gas in a Corvette and expecting top performance. It ain't gonna happen.
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Starvy makes a good point in the first paragraph of his last post. If you don't intend to expand your photography and photographic skills, stick with compact digital P&S. No sense in spending $700 - $1000 for even an entry level body and lens without learning how to get the best out of it. If that's your goal, no matter how you intend to use your gear or what you intend to take pictures of, your first accessory should be a book on basic photography. I'd also suggest using the Learning tab at the top of this page to help get you started. Good luck !
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I'm with Antonio on this. IMO there's not enough difference in the price, might as well get a new one.
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You can....but you won't like it.
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I like Len's lens lineup as well. Get the 85 1.2, in the right hands, magic is not too strong a word. As an event or portrait photographer, the 16-35, nice as it is, would be much less valuable to you. Good luck.
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I never really appreciated the big whites either until I moved back to Memphis from up Nawth. It makes a great difference, especially if you live in a warm, sunny climate.
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Simon,
I can't comment on the Tamron, I have no experience with it although I had the 90mm Tamron a few years ago and it was a very good macro, but I've had the Sigma for a few months now and I just don't see how I could be happier with it. Sharp as a tack, great color and contrast, butter smooth boke. A very good focal length, shorter and a little lighter than the 180's but longer with more room to work than the standard 90-100mm macros. Comes with a lens hood and a tripod ring, what's not to like? It also makes a fine portrait lens on my 5D.I've really come to like this lens, I can recommend it highly. Good luck.
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I haven't bought a filter from anyone else other than hvstar.com in the last year or two. Great prices and never a problem.
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If you're more comfortable with primes, go with primes. You have a very nice lens lineup there, and the extender will work with the 200 2.8. Rather than the XT, I'd go with a 20D or 30D if you don't want to spring for a new 40D. They're both very capable cameras and the control layout is better, the bodies themselves are made out of the same material the rest of the Canon lineup is made out of while the Rebels are all plastic bodies. The viewfinder is much better and the shutters are rated at twice the life of the Rebels. You can pick up a used 20 or 30 for little more than a Rebel XT. Good luck.
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My philosophy has always been, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Sounds to me like you're just sending your gear to be calibrated, hopefully at least, because it's still under warranty. Canon will do it for you and tell you anything you want to hear. But if you have a lens that's working fine, unless it's been dropped or damaged in some way, why should it need to be calibrated ?
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All of your gear has needed calibration? I've owned dozens of Canon lenses and none of them have ever been calibrated.
Why are you doing this?
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Stay away from flea-bay. Either use the classifieds here at Pnet, or better yet the Buy and Sell forum at Fred Miranda, although you'll need to register there and there's a fee involved, I forget what it is. If you peruse the FM forum you'll get an idea what your gear is going for. I've sold dozens of things there, often within minutes and never more than a day or so. If you put a reasonable price on your stuff, it'll sell quickly.
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Sounds like you have no 35mm film experience, otherwise you'd be used to light fall-off at wide angle and wide aperture. The 5D sensor is the same size as a 35mm film plane, so you'll get the same fall-off as on a film camera under the same circumstances. As others have said, it's not a "problem", it's just the way it is with FF. Shoot RAW as it's easily correctable in PS, Lightroom or DPP.
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I've had them both. Long story short, The 180 L is a great lens but big, heavy and slow to focus. IQ is great but
if it's better than the 100mm I couldn't tell although the boke is a little nicer. The extra working distance is
nice for small critters but at the expense of the size and weight. Of course the 180 is also three times the
price. Unless you just want an L lens, I'd get the 100 2.8.
Also you can go to this site : http://www.the-digital-picture.com/
where he discusses these and other macro lenses at great length. Good luck.
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The Canon XSi is a good camera to start out with AFA small format photography is concerned. But as a professional? It takes more than a camera and a lens to go into business.
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What's your level of experience?
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You'll get used to it. It took me a while coming from film, but it wasn't that big a deal. As a matter of fact it was fun. Rainer's advice about reading the manual thoroughly is the best you can receive. Good luck.
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If you need a 50mm to shoot between f/1.2 and f/2, than get the 50 L. If not, you're probably better off with the 50 1.4 AFA IQ other than boke, where the 1.2 is a little better.
I rented a 50mm 1.2 a while back to compare to my 50 1.4 as I was considering buying one, and what I found was very similar to what most reviewers found. From f/2 on up, the 1.4 is at least as good and IMO a little better than it's L counterpart. I'm glad I rented that lens.
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What is your experience as a photographer? Without knowing what you're doing and seeing some of your own pictures, there's no way to tell. If you're expecting the camera to automatically take good pictures for you, as you see in the Canon samples which I guess is why you posted the link, you have a lot to learn. The camera will only do what your level of ability and technique will let it do.
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Canon and Nikon will definitely give you more options gear-wise, but your Pentax will do anything you need.
Is my 400D ready to die
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted